What's up guys, im new to the evo world and just purchased a brand new 2015 evo final edition #804. I love this car!!! I used to own a z and the evo just blows it away...

Few questions how many miles did you guys break in for you who purchased new, how long did you wait to do an intake and exhaust
(I'm itching to order it). I just don't want to order the parts and stare at them while I'm still breaking in the car... I've heard 500, 100, 2000 just looking for opinions. First time turbo car owner and brand new car owner and I just want a more aggressive sound!!!

Thanks in advance hope you guys take it easy on the noob..

 

I started a similar thread and I am being told to wait until 5k because by then IF there are any issues that would need a warranty fix, they will have shown themselves by then. Worst case scenario, your warranty could be voided by your mods, so if your car does have a warranty issue, you want time to become aware of it before you do any modding. You really shouldn't even rev over 5k RPM until you have at least 2k miles, so I think 5k is a reasonable number to wait for performance enhancing mods. You said this was your first turbo...this is my 4th, and you DO have to be more careful with them than normally aspirated engines. Don't get in a hurry. Depending on how much you drive, you could be at 5k within 3-4 months - that's not long to wait. 100 and 500 are just ridiculously lowball numbers. Even the owners manual says break-in takes 600 miles.

 

A lot of intakes will lean out the tune. So it is advisable to get a tune when you change the intake. My rule of thumb is that any bolt-on besides the catback should get a tune.

I personally like get a number of bolt-ons, put them on and get the tune done all at once so I'm not getting retuned constantly.

One of the biggest things to realize with turbo cars, don't stab it when at low rpms. Downshift, (rev match if you can) and then gas it.

Learn the car as much as you can before modding it. I'm on my third X (FE #1176) and still taking time to learn the differences between the three of them.

You can always do exterior / interior mods to keep you at bay for a while. My first highly recommend mod are SRP pedals. They add a flange on the left side of the throttle to help with rev matching. If you get them anodized, it takes a few extra weeks, but well worth it.

 

Thanks for the advice guys I really appreciate it alot of good input unlike honda forums or even the z forums. I've read about the low rpms and don't go wot always downshift. It's an amazing machine. As far as tuning I have no clue I've always had hondas and all motor cars which never really made power ya know. How does the Cobb accessport work or should I just bring it to the shop near me to dynomax tune it. There very reputable and knowledgeable but being on a dyno sketches me out a little bc im.not in control

 

Just so you know im not yanking anyones chain<br/>

 

I don't recommend the accessport personally. They are generic semi-conservative tunes that don't take into account various environmental aspects cars can be in. If you get a Pro Tune, then I'd say that's fine, but paying $500 for a device then more $$$ for a tune doesn't seem like a value to me. If you don't want to ever tune yourself, just take it to a tuner in your area. There are a lot of decent tuners around there. Ivey, espec, etc. Or you can opt for an internet tune if you buy a tactrix cable and wideband. I'd recommend that route if you ever plan on learning how to tune yourself.

Looks great! I almost bought Mercury Gray, but opted for diamond white at the last minute since I never had a white evo.

 

Find a good tuner local, work with them so you don't hurt your new baby. Looks great in that color.

Basic rule of thumb - anything that changes the rate or flow of air in turbo car = get a tune

You 'can' use a Cobb Accessport, but a protune is always better and made just for your car at your elevation etc..

 

1) By intake, are you including drop-in air filters too?

2) How does a pedal flange help with rev matching?

 

I wasn't talking about drop-in filters, only intakes that massively change airflow and usually piping behind the MAF. ETS is a good example of an intake that leans out after installation.

The flange on the left side of the gas pedal shortens the distance that divides the brake and gas pedal. This allows the ability to use the ball of your foot + the outside of your foot to control the brake and gas simultaneously. As you're coming into the corner, you are braking with the ball of your foot, press the clutch in for a downshift, touch the throttle to the right RPMs with the outside of your foot while continuing to brake for the corner, let the clutch out, and perfect smooth brake and shift. No traction loss.

Some people with small feet can do a true traditional heel toe, but I find it awkward and difficult in the CZ4A. I don't have the biggest feet in the world, but still feel it is difficult to do. But even with the pedals, doing the traditional style would still be easier.