400hp/350tq what type of clutch you guys running?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
400hp/350tq what type of clutch you guys running?
Evo owners who are tuned to around 400hp/350tq what clutch are you guys running?
I cant decide what will be good for daily driving..
COMPETITION CLUTCH STAGE 3 STREET/STRIP SERIES 2600 CLUTCH KIT with comp flywheel.
or
ACT HD PRESSURE PLATE PERFORMANCE DISC CLUTCH KIT with FIDANZA ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL.
I use to run Fidanza flywheels on my 240's and never had issues. Have not seen many EVO owners run this so on the fence with it.
I daily the car 7 days week. currently tuned at 340/340 but will be around 400/350 soon and figured might as well upgrade the clutch but cant decide which to get.
Car will be tracked - open road/autoX
I cant decide what will be good for daily driving..
COMPETITION CLUTCH STAGE 3 STREET/STRIP SERIES 2600 CLUTCH KIT with comp flywheel.
or
ACT HD PRESSURE PLATE PERFORMANCE DISC CLUTCH KIT with FIDANZA ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL.
I use to run Fidanza flywheels on my 240's and never had issues. Have not seen many EVO owners run this so on the fence with it.
I daily the car 7 days week. currently tuned at 340/340 but will be around 400/350 soon and figured might as well upgrade the clutch but cant decide which to get.
Car will be tracked - open road/autoX
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
currently on my stock clutch at 43k and still holds strong.
But after some track sessions i doubt it will still be as good.
#7
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
with a few launches and aggressive driving... my stock clutch lasted to 55K miles before it started slipping under boost. (340WHP - 350Tq)
After a LOT of research and recommendations by my shop and awesome people on this forum, I went with a Comp Clutch Stage 3 with OEM throwout bearing and ACT monolock collar.
It is very grabby from a stop. But pedal feel isn't that stiff or unbearable for daily duties.
I took it easy for the first 500 miles and with 5K miles on it so far, so good. No chatter or weird noises, no lockout or issues getting into any gears. We will see how it holds up in the long run. But as of now, I would recommend it!
After a LOT of research and recommendations by my shop and awesome people on this forum, I went with a Comp Clutch Stage 3 with OEM throwout bearing and ACT monolock collar.
It is very grabby from a stop. But pedal feel isn't that stiff or unbearable for daily duties.
I took it easy for the first 500 miles and with 5K miles on it so far, so good. No chatter or weird noises, no lockout or issues getting into any gears. We will see how it holds up in the long run. But as of now, I would recommend it!
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#8
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
For road course and autocross, I would get a ceramic clutch. They will last longer with the abuse it will see in the motorsports environment. Comp Clutch stage 3.5, or an exedy twin disk. Both are great clutches.
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
thanks for the input everyone. looks like its going to be the exedy twin disc clutch.
Exedy twin disc clutch seems like the best option for on and off track use.
Exedy twin disc clutch seems like the best option for on and off track use.
#12
Evolved Member
iTrader: (16)
i have similar power, and i just changed my OEM after 46K miles to an Exedy Organic or stage one with 380 wtq clamping power.
I had this clutch before, and handles more power but feels/drives like stock. So if the OEM did 46K for me so far, and when we pulled it out without even slipping or any issues, it was still in good condition. Therefore i think the Exedy Stage One should be doing fine until the car hits 100K at least lol
PS: we pulled the engine out from a street car for upgrades to handle bigger power, so it does makes a lots of sense to change the clutch the same time, if you wondered
engine gets reinforced, with Carillo rods , Wiseco pistons, ARP studs etc.
I had this clutch before, and handles more power but feels/drives like stock. So if the OEM did 46K for me so far, and when we pulled it out without even slipping or any issues, it was still in good condition. Therefore i think the Exedy Stage One should be doing fine until the car hits 100K at least lol
PS: we pulled the engine out from a street car for upgrades to handle bigger power, so it does makes a lots of sense to change the clutch the same time, if you wondered
engine gets reinforced, with Carillo rods , Wiseco pistons, ARP studs etc.
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