My wife is making me sell my ZX14R. As a result, I am now building my Evo X FE with the proceeds and looking for advice.

I am limiting horsepower to 400 - 450AWHP to try and maximize reliability. I plan to invest in the highest quality parts available.

First Wave (drivetrain / reliability)

• Jack's Transmission Performance Build service. I will get the billet shift forks but is it worth getting the WPC gear treatment for $600?
• Metal clutch master cylinder
• Clutch upgrade - if cost is not issue, is it best to go twin disk or not given the relatively modest horsepower goals? I was planning to go with a ACT Clutch Kit - HD Pressure Plate / Street Disc Combo
• Do I need a clutch fork stop? I've never had an issue with this but want high reliability.
• Catch can / coolant expansion tank - VTA
• Metal valve cover

Second wave

• MAP Exhaust Manifold
• MAP 3.5" intercooler
• 18k turbo - is there a better option? Looking for good spool but maybe a bit more headroom
• MAP Fuel system
• Intake (probably a hybrid between parts)
• HKS BOV - recirc
• Cat back exhaust - I have already purchased one but I'm also looking at Ti systems to shed more weight.
• Tune
• WB02

Third wave (more reliability)

• Oil cooler upgrade
• High capacity oil pan
• Heat shielding and turbo blankets

How does this look? What else can I do to increase reliability / drivability?

 

As for the clutch best is the HKS HD twin disk. Other wise,
what You dont really need is
"

• Do I need a clutch fork stop? I've never had an issue with this but want high reliability.
• Catch can / coolant expansion tank - VTA
• Metal valve cover

• MAP 3.5" intercooler
• Oil cooler upgrade
• High capacity oil pan
• Heat shielding and turbo blankets"

IMHO put this money to get a rod and pistons, if You want real realibility. I also had ATC clutch, i didnt liked it, and even with a twin was a pretty below avarage clutch. Only Exedy makes good clutch for the Evo, simple is that. Just a thought.
Make sure you get a good tuner who has a strong history with Evos.

 

450whp on 91 octane is turbo kit territory. A Garrett Gen2 G30-660 will get you there. ETS makes a nice kit. Just get the manifold ceramic coated (jet hot 2 stage is the best) and put a blanket on the turbine housing and appropriate heat management on the water line and oil feed.

If you go the 18k route, you'll make roughly 380whp on 91. And dont buy the MAP manifold, its terrible, hurts spool up. Go with the Artec.

Get an STM catch can. The MAP parts are a meme.

You dont need a clutch unless you're going to launch it. If you do a clutch, the exedy twins are my favorite. Just run an ACT monoloc collar, no need for fork stop.

You dont need a full fuel system for pump gas. You only need a drop in pump like the ASNU 330 with a hi/low voltage rewire, and some FIC 1200cc injectors. Thats it.

Of course exhaust and intercooler as well. Oil cooler and big pan only needed if you're going to track it. And you certainly dont need to open the engine up. And you dont need a built trans.

 

My understanding is that this is only for noisy, worn out, or race-track-damaged transmissions. Instead of Jack's, you may want to try ShepTrans for the rebuild if it's ever needed.

If your transmission works fine, then keep it and keep it serviced. There is no need to rebuild a properly working transmission.

I agree. I regret buying the MAP manifold exhaust manifold; should have stayed OEM. Also, my MAP clutch master cylinder couldn't be adjusted for proper clutch pedal height, and I had to eat the loss and buy the AMS clutch master cylinder, which has been working perfectly.


^The MAP manifold's hardware. Unlike the Mitsubishi OEM manifold and hardware that come with 2 conical-shaped Belleville washers for each bolt, the MAP washers cannot act like coned-disc springs during thermal expansion cycles. This will eventually lead to bolt stretch and exhaust leak.

 

I thought I was pretty far away from needing any internals at 400WHP - with a good tuner, am I risking the engine? If I were to build the engine, I woild probably shoot for closer to 500HP.

 

Every project car I’ve built has had a weak drivetrain that I had to go easy on. It’s been a dream to have a 500HP car with a drivetrain that can handle twice that so I can abuse it / launch it a bit. I also really want that final drive ratio because I’m sick of being at 4k RPM’s just going through speed limit.

I hadn’t heard that about MAP. I just ordered the stainless cast manifold since the stock one cracks. Is stock the best manifold option we have?

 

Get the Artec manifold, worlds ahead of MAP.

 

Of course, the only part I ordered before posting this was a ceramic-coated MAP exhaust manifold!

I will see if I can return it.

thanks for all the feedback

 

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