How to: Oil and filter change on the EVO X
May 1, 2009, 12:57 PM
#31
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bump for this DIY...
Helped me out extremely! This was my very first oil change for any car (previous experience on a motorcycle). Thanks for the awesome write up.
No problems. except one of the mechanics at Toddey mitsu decided to tighten my oil drain bolt to the point where it took a gorilla to take it out.
Thanks!
Helped me out extremely! This was my very first oil change for any car (previous experience on a motorcycle). Thanks for the awesome write up.
No problems. except one of the mechanics at Toddey mitsu decided to tighten my oil drain bolt to the point where it took a gorilla to take it out.
Thanks!
May 1, 2009, 07:21 PM
#32
I am absolutely loving the fact that the oil filter is totally vertical in its orientation. Most of the Honda ones I'm used to are horizontal - my TSX one (car I traded in for the Evo) was the WORST because it was always full of oil and there was a cross member below it and a splash guard under that and oil always went everywhere when I took it off. This design is MUCH better. I'm just over 2500 miles now - I think I may go buy some Mobile1 tomorrow and do this.
May 16, 2009, 09:29 AM
#35
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About to do mine now, any preferences on oil filters? I ended up buying the factory mitsu filters for now but not sure what everyone is using on here. On my s2000 I use OEM honda oil filters but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
May 16, 2009, 01:44 PM
#36
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Thanks for this, it made my life much simpler. So much more room on the Evo than my old TT for changing the oil filter and the small plastic cover just for this makes this job a breeze. Some good thinking there.
I went with the HP-1010 K&N filter and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5-30. I like the little sticker on the front of the block suggesting the oil type ;-)
Thanks again.
I went with the HP-1010 K&N filter and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5-30. I like the little sticker on the front of the block suggesting the oil type ;-)
Thanks again.
May 16, 2009, 03:00 PM
#37
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Just want to follow up and give thanks for this write up! Only concern I had were jacking points (a little scary). Any suggestions for jacking points without a lift would be awesome.
May 17, 2009, 12:07 PM
#39
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Castrol or Mobile 1 ... I don't care. I usually buy what's on sale. 
They are both STELLAR synthetic lubricants.
I've used variants of both brands back when I was a mechanical engineer designing equipment and for 20+ years of racing with outstanding results. Synthetic lubricants are all so damn good its hard to find one that's remarkably different from another. Every time I open up an old race motor that had synthetic oil all of the bearing and ring surface look so good its unreal (compared to engines that have used dino based oils).
Sometimes on some beater cars I'll use dino oil, but only Castrol GTX (it always obliterates other dino oils in testing).
OK, I could go on and on about oils and testing, but that wasn't the intent of this thread. Just a quick "this is the EVO X oil change" how to.
They are both STELLAR synthetic lubricants.I've used variants of both brands back when I was a mechanical engineer designing equipment and for 20+ years of racing with outstanding results. Synthetic lubricants are all so damn good its hard to find one that's remarkably different from another. Every time I open up an old race motor that had synthetic oil all of the bearing and ring surface look so good its unreal (compared to engines that have used dino based oils).
Sometimes on some beater cars I'll use dino oil, but only Castrol GTX (it always obliterates other dino oils in testing).
OK, I could go on and on about oils and testing, but that wasn't the intent of this thread. Just a quick "this is the EVO X oil change" how to.
I use German Castrol 0W-30 "European Formula".
SAE 0W–30:
Castrol SYNTEC 0W–30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W–30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low–temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to –40ºF. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL–01; GM–LLA–025, GM–LL–B–025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF–3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
Yes it can be used in place of a 5W-30 oil. I have coworkers using this in their Evos. I have a coworker that uses this in his cars to include his Subaru Forster (turbo). He always sends his oil samples into blackstone for an oil analysis. The last one he sent in had nearly 8,000 miles on the oil. They sent back the analysis and it said that the oil was still in great condition. He actually emailed me his blackstone report if you guys want to take a look at it. It's not an evo, but it's very simaliar.
We have this oil debate here on the forums every few months. On one side you have the "Mitsubishi put the Mobile 1 sticker one the oil cap and you're not smarter then their engineer" loyalists. On the other you have the guys that really research oil analysis and do a little independent thinking and choice an oil accordingly. It can get really vicious lol.
This is the link to the laboratory that does the oil analysis. It a really good way to monitor what your engine's doing and get hard evidence of the effects of the oil you are using. The devil is in the details as they say. This is a really good tool for anyone that wants to keep meticulous maintenance records for their car.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
....I would actually love to hear the oildoc's opinion on this oil. I have been using it now in 3 Evos and I have had great success with it. I will be changing my Evo X oil for the first time today. I just hit 1,000 miles and I want to get the breakin oil out of the car. Yes, I know, I know, it's excessive, but that's me. I'll be sending my samples out to blackstone for every oil change on this Evo so I can keep track of how the 0W-30 German Castrol does in the 4B11 engine in the desert heat.
-CI
May 17, 2009, 02:20 PM
#40
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Excellent write up. Just did my first oil change today at 2000 miles, and took all of 15 minutes.
I used Rhino ramps. I have stock suspension (no aero) and there was only a slight rub as I pulled up onto the ramp.
One small tip for anyone struggling with the standard strap style oil filter wrench... they make a spider -type that attaches to a standard socket wrench. I picked it up at PepBoys and it worked like a charm.
I used Rhino ramps. I have stock suspension (no aero) and there was only a slight rub as I pulled up onto the ramp.
One small tip for anyone struggling with the standard strap style oil filter wrench... they make a spider -type that attaches to a standard socket wrench. I picked it up at PepBoys and it worked like a charm.
May 18, 2009, 08:35 AM
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Excellent write up. Just did my first oil change today at 2000 miles, and took all of 15 minutes.
I used Rhino ramps. I have stock suspension (no aero) and there was only a slight rub as I pulled up onto the ramp.
One small tip for anyone struggling with the standard strap style oil filter wrench... they make a spider -type that attaches to a standard socket wrench. I picked it up at PepBoys and it worked like a charm.
I used Rhino ramps. I have stock suspension (no aero) and there was only a slight rub as I pulled up onto the ramp.
One small tip for anyone struggling with the standard strap style oil filter wrench... they make a spider -type that attaches to a standard socket wrench. I picked it up at PepBoys and it worked like a charm.
