Did you trim the bumpstops??Doesn't look like it..

 

Service manual says to do so. Read it and you'll see.

Left them as-is. Not having any abnormal noises, so I'm sure it's fine. I never trimmed them on my other Mitsubishi, so I figured the Evo X may be an application that doesn't require it. Hasn't caused me any issues.

 

WarmAndSCSI

How much wheel gap do you have now?/
Im considering these springs, I just want to know how they settle.

 

Good stuff! I see the pics of the rear struts were at night lol, mine was the same way. I started around 4ish and didn't finish til about 7 or 8pm.

 

It's not bad. Barely harsher than stock, plenty of clearance. I take everything at an angle by habit, but I don't really need to with this drop. Perfect for a DD.

Yeah I spent about 5 hours on it because I was sightseeing around the whole underbody of the car. Very impressive engineering compared to my Galant...

2 fingers up front, 1 finger out back.

Wait a minute... *shocker*

 

Octane blue..so sexy.

good job on the pics too. nice writeup

 

If you want this top nut to be remove and not rotate on your everywhere trying to remove it.



Leave everything bolted in the car. Use the spring compressors on the stock spring. Then loosen that middle top nut. Then take out the entire assembly.

 

FYI, for you DIY guys. Check the rear toe after you install the springs. It should be toe'd in quite a bit. I checked mine after install and it was about a 1/8" total toe-in. I checked the fronts as well and they were in spec.

 

Yeah, you need a alignment after any spring install. Since your alignment gets all out of its proper parameters.

 

That's an accident waiting to happen.

Do it the right way: air tools.


And I still have to re-align everything. Don't really trust anybody touching the car, so that makes it difficult. I just want it done before I get my new tires/wheels.

 

Some people don't have access to air tools. But do at your own risk.

 

OK, then, my opinion is that without air tools you shouldn't tackle a spring install. Unless you want to waste a lot of time.

 

I'm not sure why you need to have air tools. You could do everything without it. The spring compressors I have, you can hand crank everything. It would take longer but it can still be done. I happen to have a pneumatic impact wrench so it does shorten the job.

BTW, to adjust the toe on our cars, it's pretty easy. For the rear, you have two arms that go to the knuckle. On the end closest to the center of the car, it's mounted to the frame with a cam-type screw. Loosen the nut and adjust the screw. On the screw, you'll see some marks on it as well as a mark on the frame. They should be lined up.

I adjusted the rear link first and for some reason it didn't move the wheel so I set it back to stock and moved the front link. I rotated it just slightly more than 1 tick and that zeroed out my toe-in. But this will depend on how low your car is.

How do you check your toe? Just buy some toe plates. This is the easiest way to do it. You could buy these from Longacre or I've found some on eBay for $24. If you look at the website below, it has a link to tell you how to check your toe. I use the fishing line method when I have more time to do it more accurately.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=152&catid=5

Being an autoxer, you have to learn how to align the car yourself otherwise it costs too much.

 

Just reread my post and want to reclarify one point.

I meant when I adjusted the rearmost link, it did move the wheel but it gave more toe-in so I adjusted the front one to get rid of the toe-in.

 

Thanks for the link to the toe plates, but please start up a new thread if you're going to detail alignment procedure. Nobody will read that here, and I already know how to adjust toe since this isn't my first Mitsu.