Most other write-ups I looked at said to use 325*F for about 3-5 minutes, I think the OP used 200*F since he left the ballasts attached in the oven.

He definitely is right about the time. If you use 200*F , leave it in for the full 30 minutes, otherwise it will be way more work pulling them apart, or won't come apart at all.

 

Thats coz Matt at TRS make the lenses and distributes them out
Any product with an "R" (replica) is distributed by TRS



HAHA.. All you boys crack me up. Its funny how so much hair pulling goes on when it comes to understanding where locations are to adjust HLs. I know this stuff inside out.



Ok, re-ask the questions again boys. Ill try to help you with my pic



The proper name is Hella BiXenon. "E55" is the nick name this projector is given by HID forums... Lambos / Range Rovers / Audis / Mercs / BMWs run the same projector....
Pull up at the lights next to a Lambo and tell the fool yous both are running the same projector...

BTW, they are s**t projectors... compare them to FX35s and TL BiXenon projectors and E55s get left for dead.



CT9A and CZ4A tail lights are "plastic welded" together. Thats why theyre different. I dont currently have a close up shot of CZ tails to show you the plastic weld atm but I do have RA tail tails dremelled apart for an up and comming custom look:

[edit] "plastic weld pic of RA tails added:






What happened bro? I offered to do a custom set for free ages ago and you still havent replied...


By the time you waited 30 mins, Ive already opened both sides with a heat gun and flat head screw driver...

 

Alright, well I was adjusting the right thing the whole time iEvoVII, it just appears that my drivers side adjustment "screw" has become "dislodged" from the gear it was attached to inside the headlight. It spins freely, however the light never moves up or down. When attempting to do the same with the passenger, it moves up or down. So what I have done as a work-around is to bottom out the passenger side to attempt to get the lights as close as possible, but its still affecting visibility.

How do I fix this? Its MUCH better now, but not perfect and still driving me nuts.

 

^^

Ok, answer the following:

* Does your RHS HL still adjust UP & DOWN via the incabin adjustment knob?
* Looking at the pic of the SSS HL i linked, when you said you tried to adjust your RHS beam pattern DOWN, which adjustment screw did you adjust? There are 3 points of adjustment shown in the pic

 

1.)Yes, both headlights actually adjust up and down via the electronic knob inside the cabin.
2.) It would be the one closest to the fender, not the hood latch. It has a yellow-ish 5mm screw sticking out the back of it, that I used a 5mm socket to adjust since I felt like I was going to strip something with that phillips screwdriver in the adjustment hole. I believe the one in the far left of your picture if that is the driver HL, which I believe it is.

 

re-edited pic:



Comment (2) is contradicting:

You made the statement: "the one closest to the fender"..... which would be Adjustment# 3

You then made the statement: "It has a yellow-ish 5mm screw sticking out the back of it"... which would be Adjustment# 2

So which one is it? I pretty sure youre talking about Adjustment# 2 but lets all turn to the same page....

more qns:
* Did you ever use the screw driver at the so called adjustment point? or only the 5mm socket?
* what number is the incabin adjustment knob set at right now. Jog my memory:
The higher the number, the higher or lower the beam pattern will shine???

 

I apologize, I realize now after looking at the picture.. Yes, it is adjustment #2, as I remember putting the screwdriver through the metal sleeve.

New questions:
1.) Yes I did, which is probably the culprit as I pretty much forced the #2x8 phillips screw driver into the plastic shroud to get to the "adjustment screw". After attempting to turn it with no results, I later found I could adjust it with a 5mm ratchet, but I believe by this time, the damage was done.
2.) The higher the number, the lower the beam. So right now, I have the passenger HL bottom'ed out, the driver is sitting low because of the problem, but I have the incabin at 0 (highest setting) to attempt to get the best visibility out of my lights.

 

^^

Ok, 2 ways to adjust your beam pattern UP / DOWN:

* via adjustment# 2
or
* via adjustment# 1 & adjustment# 3 together... If you make 3 full revolutions on one, you have to make 3 full revolutions on the other.... In your case, you want to lower the beam pattern so you have to make Anti-Clockwise revolutions

You can do all the movement from the RHD HL or you can meet both HLs half way and adjust the LHS HL via adjustment# 2.

You may then need to adjust the incabin knob accordingly...

Give either option a try

 

did this mod last night..took my time..came out flawless....had a friend help me and its def easier doing it with another set of hands....by far the best lookin free mod to do to the x..

 

Awesome, okay I was thinking those two 10mm bolts def had to do with the adjustment. I think when I go to install my intercooler this weekend, I will remove the headlights so its easier to get to those bolts and make some adjustments.

Really and truly what needs to happen is my driver side HL needs to come up and the passenger needs to be raised JUST slightly.

Thank you for taking the time to help!

 

No need to take the HLs off the car. Adjusting the beam pattern while theyre on the car will make life easier. ALL adjustment points are easily accessable with the HL fixed on the car.

* Adjustment# 1 uses a 10mm socket ONLY
* Adjustment# 2 uses a long shaft phillips head screw driver or 5mm socket
* Adjustment# 3 uses a phillips head screw driver or 10mm socket ONLY when HL is off the car.

Adjustment# 3 can be accessed as follows:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8744511-post20.html


More adjustment trivia:
* Adjusting #1 by itself will give DIAGONAL adjustment (pivoting axis = adjustment# 2 & adjustment# 3)

* Adjusting #2 by itself will give you UP / DOWN adjustment (pivoting axis = adjustment# 1 & adjustment# 3)

* Adjusting #3 by itself will give you LEFT / RIGHT adjustment (pivoting axis = adjustment# 1 & adjustment# 2)

* Adjusting #1 & #3 together will give you UP / DOWN adjustment (pivot point = adjustment# 2)

* Adjusting #1 & #2 together will give you LEFT / RIGHT adjustment (pivot point = adjustment #3)

Does this make sense???

 

has anyone who's blacked out the high beam reflector bowl experienced less output from the high beam?

i'm going to be blacking out my headlights and doing a 55w retrofit this week, so just looking for a heads up before i do it

 

i've got oem hids and i'm pretty sure when i switch to high beams the hids turn off and it switches over to the halogen bulbs.... thus using the reflector bowl things

 

Then I'm pretty sure that's only a Ralliart thing, which I am not sure why they would have made them different. EVO X SSS headlights are Bi-Xenon and only use the projector with HID for low AND high beams and the middle reflector unit is ONLY for DRLs. But yes if that's how they work on your car, your light output will be affected. I'm not sure how much or enough to matter, but it will be.

 

I downloaded the PDF and no virus! Thanks for the write up.