Honest assessment of HKS coilovers
Jun 21, 2017, 06:49 PM
#46
I have... but they were on my IX, so it's hard to compare. They were Tein Mono Flex with electronic dampening (Tanabe). They really changed the way it handled, and was really nice to have the ability to change the dampening in cabin.
I also had revalved bilsteins on my '11 GSR.
I'd say build quality wise, the HKS were a step above. Just seemed more quality metals and stout. I want to get the fronts dialed in and go for a decent drive on these before I give some honest feedback.
From an out of the box experience, they carve but the ride is not great. I read changing the dampening really makes a big difference on the SPs. Going to screw with that this weekend and give some full feedback.
I also had revalved bilsteins on my '11 GSR.
I'd say build quality wise, the HKS were a step above. Just seemed more quality metals and stout. I want to get the fronts dialed in and go for a decent drive on these before I give some honest feedback.
From an out of the box experience, they carve but the ride is not great. I read changing the dampening really makes a big difference on the SPs. Going to screw with that this weekend and give some full feedback.
Jun 21, 2017, 07:48 PM
#47
Evolved Member
I honestly didn't measure. More than I expected. If I had to guestimeasure I'd say about 1.75" in front and 1.5" in the rear. But I didn't take a tape measure, i just used my fist.
However, I did notice there was a weight drop of just over 6lbs per in the front. I didn't weigh the rears though.
However, I did notice there was a weight drop of just over 6lbs per in the front. I didn't weigh the rears though.
Jun 22, 2017, 06:33 AM
#48
I've never really been a lower car guy. I kinda like the 4x4 look, it looks a bit aggressive (I'll post some pics today). But I also still have my factory wheels without spacers on.
I have some Volk CE28SLs that will be here tomorrow, just waiting on TPMS and lugs and I'll throw those on.
I have some Volk CE28SLs that will be here tomorrow, just waiting on TPMS and lugs and I'll throw those on.
Jun 22, 2017, 07:08 PM
#51
Evolved Member
^I've used different types of suspensions on various cars. So yes. I know. I was just wondering what type of drop to expect by just bolting the coils on. Curious. That's all. Like it was stated before... since there's hardly any info out there.
Jun 22, 2017, 07:51 PM
#52
All I know about HKS besides their cost and that they make the Super Charger for my Yamaha FX SHO is that they made by far and away the best Intake Manifold for the Lancer Evolution.
I would imagine Ohlins would be better than the HKS units but who knows.
I would imagine Ohlins would be better than the HKS units but who knows.
Jun 23, 2017, 09:52 AM
#53
I don't doubt that Ohlins are better. I am partly tempted to buy a set (if I could get a really good deal) and throw them on for a true comparison. I could write an iOS app to monitor Gs and ride roughness as well. Then we could actually compare graphs instead of speculating.
Jun 23, 2017, 10:26 AM
#54
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I don't doubt that Ohlins are better. I am partly tempted to buy a set (if I could get a really good deal) and throw them on for a true comparison. I could write an iOS app to monitor Gs and ride roughness as well. Then we could actually compare graphs instead of speculating.
Jun 23, 2017, 12:56 PM
#55
Problem is I don't know what I want for rates and dampening. Sounds like a good deal but that's a little higher than I'd like to experiment with. Will see how my times compare on PIR on these SPs, but different cars. Should have done a benchmark run before I changed the suspension.
Jun 23, 2017, 01:55 PM
#56
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
X setup is more because they come with adjuster extenders for the rear shocks.
A good baseline for the X is square rates, like 10k f/r. Revalve, PSI just matched the valving to the new spring rate. You don't really choose your damping.
A good baseline for the X is square rates, like 10k f/r. Revalve, PSI just matched the valving to the new spring rate. You don't really choose your damping.
Jun 28, 2017, 03:43 PM
#57
So my alignment sucked. Had to have the wheel cranked to side to go straight. Getting it redone and should be able to give some honest feedback this weekend. They still feel like they are breaking in because each time I drive they feel more comfortable. Interesting.
Jul 11, 2017, 06:50 AM
#58
Updates:
After finally getting the alignment fixed... I think I have to get it done again. I'll get into that in a sec though.
I lowered the dampening to 30% in the front and 40% in the rear for daily driving. I'm slightly shocked how much changing the dampening has changed it. It no longer feels like i'm rolling over logs when going over harsh bumps. If it wasn't for the pillowball mounts, I'd like these more than my bilsteins when it comes to ride. There is just so much vibration that comes through on Oregon roads (which are super harsh from people running studs 6 months of the year when they really only need it for about 3 days a year).
The handling is superb. I feel like I can dice within an inch of the same line in the same corner. It's quite easy to put the car where I want and easy to exit out of. Body roll is there only when necessary and not just an overly stiff car. I'm having no issue kicking the *** end out when I want either, which I didn't expect with a stock rear sway and lighter spring rates in the back.
I'll bump it up to 50% in front and 60% in rear for track days.
I got my Volk CE28SL + Bridgestone RE71r 255/40 + TPMS on last weekend. (I had to get 255/40 because 265s are out of production until September). And I'm rubbing with a -1.4 rear camber. It's a light rub enough to mark the tires but not enough to gouge them. I forgot to tell them to zero out the toe in the rear, and it's at 0.24, but I don't think that tells the whole story. This suspension is freaking LOW!!
Noize and I have the same wheel specs, and exact same tires and he doesn't come close to running. He's even running less offset in the rear (-1.2). He sent some video of his height, and I'd about 2/3 lower than he is. I can't fit my index finger in between my tire and fender. I'm surprised HKS thinks being that low is ok. So it looks like i'll have to raise the car and get realigned to get rid of the rubbing.
I really wish I had someone local that had Ohlins to drive their car back to back to mine. The only person I know that had them, they blew after 14k miles and he sold them.
Overall, I'm a lot happier with both the handling and the ride after playing with dampening and letting them settle a bit. They were super harsh when I got them, but they got more mellow over about a week or two (I don't drive it every day).
I have a track day coming up next month, I'll see how that goes. I don't doubt I'll have any problems. Really looking forward to it with my set up.
After finally getting the alignment fixed... I think I have to get it done again. I'll get into that in a sec though.
I lowered the dampening to 30% in the front and 40% in the rear for daily driving. I'm slightly shocked how much changing the dampening has changed it. It no longer feels like i'm rolling over logs when going over harsh bumps. If it wasn't for the pillowball mounts, I'd like these more than my bilsteins when it comes to ride. There is just so much vibration that comes through on Oregon roads (which are super harsh from people running studs 6 months of the year when they really only need it for about 3 days a year).
The handling is superb. I feel like I can dice within an inch of the same line in the same corner. It's quite easy to put the car where I want and easy to exit out of. Body roll is there only when necessary and not just an overly stiff car. I'm having no issue kicking the *** end out when I want either, which I didn't expect with a stock rear sway and lighter spring rates in the back.
I'll bump it up to 50% in front and 60% in rear for track days.
I got my Volk CE28SL + Bridgestone RE71r 255/40 + TPMS on last weekend. (I had to get 255/40 because 265s are out of production until September). And I'm rubbing with a -1.4 rear camber. It's a light rub enough to mark the tires but not enough to gouge them. I forgot to tell them to zero out the toe in the rear, and it's at 0.24, but I don't think that tells the whole story. This suspension is freaking LOW!!
Noize and I have the same wheel specs, and exact same tires and he doesn't come close to running. He's even running less offset in the rear (-1.2). He sent some video of his height, and I'd about 2/3 lower than he is. I can't fit my index finger in between my tire and fender. I'm surprised HKS thinks being that low is ok. So it looks like i'll have to raise the car and get realigned to get rid of the rubbing.
I really wish I had someone local that had Ohlins to drive their car back to back to mine. The only person I know that had them, they blew after 14k miles and he sold them.
Overall, I'm a lot happier with both the handling and the ride after playing with dampening and letting them settle a bit. They were super harsh when I got them, but they got more mellow over about a week or two (I don't drive it every day).
I have a track day coming up next month, I'll see how that goes. I don't doubt I'll have any problems. Really looking forward to it with my set up.
Jul 13, 2017, 10:06 AM
#59
Oregon roads (which are super harsh from people running studs 6 months of the year when they really only need it for about 3 days a year).
I have a track day coming up next month, I'll see how that goes. I don't doubt I'll have any problems. Really looking forward to it with my set up.
I have a track day coming up next month, I'll see how that goes. I don't doubt I'll have any problems. Really looking forward to it with my set up.
which track? do you ever come up to The Ridge?
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