what is the proper break-in method? yes i am young and noob.

and while we're at it, can you guys explain what DSM, GSR, GSX is?

i've seen evos referred to as GSR, but then what about the integra GSR?

is the u.s. evo referred to as DSM?

besides the fact that there is a eclipse gsx, i've also see other references, what are those?

ALSO

what is the difference between the 4g36 and the mivec engines?

THANKS

 

wow. good questions. i dont know your answers too well, but generally for a break in on this car you should run it 250 miles. change the oil. run it 500 miles, change the oil, run it 1000 miles change the oil, then go to a usual oil changing pattern. no launching, over revving, or red lining / hard driving until you have at least 500 miles on the car.....dealers usually jsut say go easy for 500 miles. it is an evo. be meticulous IMO.

 

Yeah, the manual indicates not to rev over 5,000rpm for the first 700 miles, but others are meticulous and go with an overcautious break-in such as above.

DSM = Diamond star motors older eclipses, talons, lasers
GSR i believe is the model we consider the Evo 8, the middle model (between RS and MR) its referred to as GSR in other countries.

Eclipe GSX = All wheel drive turbo eclipse.

Mivec is variable valve timing equivelent to vtec

 

i've heard repeatedly to do the first oil change at 1,000 and then do the regular changes.

 

Go easy on the car for atleast 1k miles, I did my first oil change at 3k.

 

Only reason I've ever heard to break in a car was back in the day...when cars were not machined by machines. You would get flakes in the oil so you would need to change your oil all the time to clear those up. Today's engines are so finely machined that there really isn't a break in period. Granted I did follow Mitsu's advice about how far on the tach to run the car...other thant that I didn't change my oil 3 or 4 times. In fact, i haven't changed it once. Car is running just like the day I bought it.

To each his own...some follow oldschool, some follow new-school. I prefer to merge both.

 

This is for Braking system only!

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"Bedding of the discs or pre bedding is absolutely critical for both longevity and performance," says Kontje, noting that Brembo pre-beds discs on a machine. "Essentially you want to get a nice even transfer layer of pad material on the discface. To do it properly would probably take four full laps for this process. The thing is that initially, often people will drag the brake and hit the accelerator at the same time; that is a complete no-no. You want to really put in high pressure short applications." That means at race speed, hard on the brakes for two seconds, on and off, about three or four times. Then let it cool a little, and then do it again. Ideally, cool it down for ten minutes and then really hammer on the brakes for a lap. That process will not only bed in the disc, but also heat cycle and thermally prep it as well.
"The ultimate goal with bedding is to release some of the inherent gases in the brake pad while simultaneously creating the transfer film on the pads and disks," says Hawk Pads' Slagle. For pads, he recommends five to six moderate-pressure (50 percent) decelerations. from about 70mph to 30mph, as quickly as possible to build up heat in the pads and discs. After a short cooling period, five or six full-pressure, threshold braking maneuvers from 90mph to 20mph, done as quickly as possible will "build up extreme heat very rapidly and this is what you want."
StopTech recommends a set of 10 partial braking events, from 60mph to 10mph, followed immediately by three of four more from 80mph to 10mph, all at about 80 percent. After a cooling period, the process should be repeated. While the recommended processes differ slightly, they all share one thing in common: During the bedding in process, the car should not be brought to a complete stop. That could lead to uneven transfer of friction material.
Mark Joseph, director/production manager of Disk Brakes Australia USA, says new pads should be bedded in with old rotors, and new rotors should be bedded in with old pads. After that, "the new rotors and pads should be fitted, driven carefully so that both pads and rotors mate to each surface."

 

thanks for all the replies.

does anyone else want to contribute?

 

i`ve changed the oil as soon as i get home from the dealer with castrol gtx.

 

What oil are you guys running on your first change? Thinking about amsoil 0w30 or royal purple 5w30. Any suggestions for my first oil change.

 

i bleed mobile1

 

The evo is not a dsm.