Originally Posted by jag0

So I'm pretty much settled on the TIAL QR (despite reading a rather scary thread about fluttering). My question is what spring to get since I'm considering running 25-30psi?

Originally Posted by sgt_petty_210

Turn you car on and let it warm up to normal operating temps. Look at your boost gauge if you have one, and look at the vacuum reading. W/E the vacuum reading is, take that number and compare it to the tial numbers that are found on their site, next to the number it will tell you which spring to get. Each car is different, and numbers could vary. You choose your spring from your vacuum reading. Here is the chart to follow for selecting the correct spring.

Engine Vacuum Reading / Color Use Spring
Between:
- 22 and -23 in/Hg Pink -12 Psi (-24 in/Hg )
-18 and -21 in/Hg Un-painted -11 Psi (-22 in/Hg )
- 14 and -17 in/Hg White -9 Psi (-18 in/Hg )
-10 and -13 in/Hg Black -7 Psi (-14 in/Hg )

Originally Posted by jag0

thanks! The challenge is, the car currently doesn't have the additions on it. My intention is to get the BOV the same time as the turbo, injectors etc.

Is there any other way? or what have other guys used?

Originally Posted by sgt_petty_210

There is alot of good advice here. But listen to Rockman, he knows alot and can def steer you in the RIGHT direction. I know people running SO MUCH MORE POWER then 400awhp with stock tranny and tc with no issues. Something to upgrade down the line, yes. But right now you should be fine as long as there are no issues with them already. With the Red and the mods posted you should break 400. If you look at all my mods, I dont think I can break 400 unless I upgrade my turbo or switch to E85.

Originally Posted by jag0

really ****TY octane gas.... 90 octane....

in terms of what's already been bought.

1. 880s
2. Walbro (already on the car)
3. HKS 264 Cams (yeah i know they're not the best but they came with the car)
4. Red is currently being rebuilt at FP, may get it ported while they have it.
5. AEM wideband
6. ARP studs
7. Trust Exhaust

what I'm currently doing some research on is

1. FMIC - got some really good advice on just getting a good AMS or other reputable intercooler. But man, so many ppl swear by the ebay ones and I've found ones ranging from 150 to 200.... soooo tempting.

I told you about dents already. get a APS,AMS,ETS,Buschur,CBRD,PPI

2. Blow off valve - Debating if i should just get a stock IX valve, go with an HKS used or break the bank and try to get a tial qr

Make is extremely easy on yourself and get a APS Twin Vent bov. I sent you pics and everything its all included

3. O2 housing. Sorting out getting one and getting it coated.

We talked about this invidia 3" o2 housing or ebay SS 02 housing and i sent you a link to buy them

4. LICP.

Many systems to choose from. ETS v2 is (supposly) the best but buschur, AMS, nesei, injen, STM,JMD, take your pic

so still a bit to go... just trying to get the most RELIABLE bang for my buck.

Originally Posted by jag0

lol TRUST me rockmanx. Took your advice on everything thus far except the BOV.... And after spending the day reading about the Tial, i think i may take your advice on the BOV as well... seems if you get the spring wrong, it could end up costing more in the long run to get the right spring(s).

Originally Posted by RynMp147

i'm a little bit of a noob here too, and not to thread jack... but i'm also aiming for ~400 awhp... i currently have:

stm intake. Have not heard alot about this but should be fine STM is a cool company. may want to consider buschur version perrin versions ams versions and injen intake etc

dc sport header. crap replace it with a quality tubular(mona lisa,fullrace,shearers,toxic fab,ets)

titek o2 housing. Old school peace i suppose its cool. the ebay ss o2 has proven to make better gains but there are many options now being the new invidia 3" o2 or even o2 dumps if your into to more power increased smell and sound.

AMS Intercooler and larger licp (not sure of manufacture). AMS makes good stuff although you will probally be told to upgrade to buschur race, cbrd 3.8, or the ets 3.8 with garrett core. you need to find out what LICP your using makes a difference in spool of the turbo if you cant find it replace it!!!!

walbro. YES a walbro 255 is always needed for sure one of the first mods you should invest in

Competition clutch stage 3 kevlar + lightened flywheel. have no ideal what this crap is. I would say upgrade to exedy twin HD and be done with the clutch.


3" downpipe (not sure of manufacture) and vibrant exhaust. Vibrant exhaust is old school but long as its 3" its cool dont forget to add a testpipe as well. downpipe long as its true 3" your cool.


would i be able to get to my goal with

Ported FP Green. Make sure you getting a ported HTA fp GREEN
1000cc injectors. Yes sir either pte or fic no less then 1000cc
HKS 272s. Waste of funds in my opinion get either fp 4rs, s2, or kelford 272
APS Twin vent BOV. ALL DAY yes sir
ARP Headstuds. you should consider getting undercut arp or l19 versions.
Possible Exedy Twin HD (not sure how good my clutch really is). talked about above upgrade
gauges and tune. you always need guages to monitor your investment would be stupid not to and a tune is required to get the full power out the mods
guages: Aem 35 psi boost, Aem Oil pressure, Aem wideband

(Taking advice from RockmanX)