Hey
Allright I have alot of questions im cerious about before spending all my money.

I have Mr 3" turbo back exhaust with test pipe, Injen intake and upper i/c pipe, Greddy type-s bov.

My cars running pretty bad. Im gettin beat by stuff i should rape. I know im leaking boost but can find out from where. And its just not what a evo should be. Im going to get the afc and get it dyno and tuned. Im going with acf instead of a stand alone because i dont have 2k and im not planning anything to big for my car.

I wanna run everything above + bump up the boost a lil with my manual xs controller. How much diffrence will the afc give me? Can i run my bov to the atmosphere instead of intake and it will run ok? After i get it tuned and if i was to unplug the battery would i lose all my setting and be screwed? And I can get the afc II for around 310 do i have to buy anthing additional like a wireharness? And just any1 whos running the same mods what was your outcome?

Thanks guys and if any1 ealse has anymore good info please let me know.
Eric

 

1. You don't HAVE to get a wiring harness, but they do make for an easier install. You can get the Field harness and solder all your connections while it is sitting on a bench, then take it out to the car and have it plugged in no time. If you do not get a harness, you will have to be all contorted ad a strange angle while you strip insulation off of wires that hang below the glovebox. Then you have to solder those wires and re-insulate them. It's not the most pleasant of work environments, but it can be done. I didn't get a wiring harness with my S-AFC.

2. You will still want to recirculate your bypass valve because you are still using the MAS. Only when you go to speed density do you need to look in to venting to atmosphere without issues. This does not hold true in every case, but it is pretty much the norm on how things have went for the 4G63 in the US for the past decade or so.

3. Butt dynos are hard to read. When I installed my S-AFC 2, of course I thought I felt a difference in the way it drove. Any part you install will make you feel a bit faster, that's just how our brain works. It just works that way moreso for Honda owners (buy a wing, now their car is fast, etc.). However, I have ran against a Camaro SS both with factory ECU and then with S-AFC corrected ECU and the with the correction in there, I was able to pull a LOT harder on him. These were back to back runs, done strictly for comparison so that I could know if the S-AFC really did do anything on the Evo's pig-rich map.

4. Do a system pressure test. Take it to a shop if you have to, but get it done. There is a world of resources out there that you should look in to. A lot of the stuff still applies to the Evo.

www.vfaq.com

It was designed for the DSMers, but like I said, a lot of the info (especially the maintenance and care parts) will be a great resource for you.



If you are going to get a S-AFC, I would recommend getting it from Mach V Motorsports ( www.machevo.com ). I've dealt with Dan and the rest of his team for quite some time now and they have never done me wrong. They've got VERY good prices for the S-AFC 2 that include the Buschur Racing recommended settings. These settings will get you in the ballpark of where you will want your car to be.

I hope all fo this helps...

 

Hey man,

My advice is get your car running properly first, ie. take care of any mechanical problems like boost leaks or whatever FIRST.

Like you, my car didn't "feel" that fast stock, and I started adding mods to compensate: MBC, Forge Recirc, Buschur AB, then an SAFCII.

Car did get faster, but later I was getting a lot of misfire and pulled my plugs to find that they were fouled. Also replaced my stock ic piping clamps with t-bolt and samco hoses and the car was transformed. I had thought that I was getting used to the new power, but in reality the performance was degrading. After addressing the misfire and piping leaks, car is faster, smoother, and much more driveable.

Sorry for the digression, as for your actual questions, the harness does make it much easier.

Why do you want to vent to atmosphere? I think it may lead to more problems from running rich. You already have the intake so it should have "most" of the sound, right?

You shouldn't lose the SAFC settings when disconnecting the battery, unless something is wired wrong. Write down the settings anyway, it's fairly easy to put them back in if necessary.

Anyway, if you address any mechanical problems, then get it dyno-tuned, you should be in good shape, around 300 AWHP on a dynojet I would think. I haven't dyno-tuned mine, so I definitely have room for improvement. I'm trying to decide if I want to get cams and then get a flash, or just flash my current setup (after getting a 3" catback to complete the exhaust).

Take care,

FB

 

im in an entirely different hole myself but in the same boat in looking to tune with a safc. right now i have the hks rs intake, helix downpipe, cat-delete, hks hiper exhaust, and works p2 reflash. i just ordered my hks 264/264 cams. now my problem is HOW DO I TUNE MY EVO??? i had no idea before i bought the cams that i would have to buy a piggy-back, as well as a boost controller (recommended). and if i get a boost controller, i owuld then have to buy fuel injectors and fuel pump right? that just means a lot more $$$ then i expected. someone please help me clear this up. i have cams but dont know what to do with them

 

hey megatron if youre gonna stay with works tuning you car you dont need an ebc for now and they can reflash your car with your cams on.i pretty much have the same set up as yours except the intake and i already had an ebc done before i went to works.

as for the afc im still debating if i should get the harness or not.i know it cuts the install time but isnt the harness for it kinda pricey?