Just installed non-ic rrm turbo!
#31
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Just take the whole kit off an re-install it step by step, that way you know you will do everything the exact right way this time. (seriously, it might be worth it to start over). Even disconnect all your lines, make sure there are no blockages, even oil lines. Any electrical connections you made, go out and buy a soldering iron (9 bux from radio shack) and solder all connections, or make sure you use those quick disconnects and they are making GOOD contact. Use a digital multimeter to make sure. (borrow one or buy one for 19 bux at radio shack). Sounds like something was put on improperly without you realizing it. I've seen so many success stories from these turbo kits, it is most likely either a setting got messed up on a regulator, or improper install. (by accident). I'm guessing you have the install guide? So go thru it step by step again, and 3x check everything if you don't take it ALL apart.
edit: Won't go over 4k rpms? Reset the ECU, or take the car in to have the transmission reset/reprogrammed. There is a transmission controller that could be messed up. On my talon, I had to get it reprogrammed twice, it was independed of the ECU. I couldn't shift out of 1st or 2nd gear, the car would just get stuck at the top of the RPM band.. so you could have a similar problem if it won't go past 4k rpms. (my talon was an auto as well)
edit: Won't go over 4k rpms? Reset the ECU, or take the car in to have the transmission reset/reprogrammed. There is a transmission controller that could be messed up. On my talon, I had to get it reprogrammed twice, it was independed of the ECU. I couldn't shift out of 1st or 2nd gear, the car would just get stuck at the top of the RPM band.. so you could have a similar problem if it won't go past 4k rpms. (my talon was an auto as well)
Last edited by wiretap; Jun 30, 2005 at 06:32 AM.
#35
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I wont be able to disassemble this until saturday; i think it may be an exhaust leak as well. Last night it louder than before. So ill just lay off it until then. Ive reset the ecu twice. Once at the shop (and then the dumbass mechanics all reving it, until i told him to stop), and once yesterday (and this time i even did the whole 15 min drive thing). The reason i cant get past 4k is...well i dont know the exact reason but i do know the waste gate is open and screaming at about 4k (or an exhaust leak). Almost like i have a red line @ 4k! Well off to work; thanks again for all your help. Ill let you know what i find.
-Heath
One more thing; i dont know if this is a problem, according to the mechanic it should stop, but i had my entire head redone. All 16 valves replaced (changed the timing belt wrong), and now when its running; i here the clicking which he says is the lifters and they need to prime and it should stop. Well im on day 4 and i have yet to hear them stop. Are these ajustable? The car sounded like this before but VERY quietly (we've all complained about this noise once before). But now the damn thing sounds like a tractor. Any ideas?
-Heath
One more thing; i dont know if this is a problem, according to the mechanic it should stop, but i had my entire head redone. All 16 valves replaced (changed the timing belt wrong), and now when its running; i here the clicking which he says is the lifters and they need to prime and it should stop. Well im on day 4 and i have yet to hear them stop. Are these ajustable? The car sounded like this before but VERY quietly (we've all complained about this noise once before). But now the damn thing sounds like a tractor. Any ideas?
Last edited by Kelspar; Jun 30, 2005 at 07:24 AM.
#36
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Ok, yea it could be an exhaust leak.. a pretty bad one. My mom hit an axe blade one time and it flipped up and punctured a 3'' cut in her muffer of her old van, and she could not honestly get past 15mph. Weird things can happen..
#37
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The mechanics could have messed up your car too, it is a possibility. But most likely no. When you get the car running with the turbo, take it easy. The valves and lifters just have to get the chance to be all lubricated and stuff. When I worked at a car dealership, all the hyundai's came like that off the truck making the same annoying noise. Take it around the block about 4x at around 3k rpms. It should go away. If not, take it back to the mechanic, cause something could be wrong.
#38
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Ok im @ work now. The ride over here was something else; the waste gate didnt open till around 4; i was able to achive the same amount of boost and it seemed a little better. But i still didnt have as much acceleration as i thought i would. I will reassemble the kit saturday. But the head has been ticking for like 3 days now.
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I'd take it to a different mechanic just to see if they know what the problem with the head is. (after you get the turbo fixed, cause they could just say thats the problem and not want to deal with it).
#40
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Heres some tips i picked up from installing this so many times
1. look around your gaskets and see if they are black anywhere. if its before the turbo then that will slow your spool down.
2. get brakleen from kragen or autozone and spray it on your vacuum hoses, but dont spray it on anything thats powdercoated or itll bubble the paint.
3. to get rid of the wastegate noise go to any muffler/weld shop and tell them to make you a tube from your wastegate dump tube into your downpipe. itll be around $50 and take away that annoying sound (but you should get a catback if doing this)
4. take your wastegate off and make sure everything is there. there should be like a 1in diameter ring where it connects to the uppipe on the wastegate. (check the gasket)
5. you will eventually want to get metal gaskets for the wastegate because they will start leaking eventually
6. youll know when u have an exhaust leak when driving. you can hear air coming out of the pipe at low RPMs or you can stick ur hand at the flanges and feel air coming out. fix those as soon as you can
7. after tighting bolts on the exhaust, make sure you tighten them about 3 or 4 times after getting them hot to make sure that they are completely tight because they get loose over time and you might lose one.
that about does it for now
1. look around your gaskets and see if they are black anywhere. if its before the turbo then that will slow your spool down.
2. get brakleen from kragen or autozone and spray it on your vacuum hoses, but dont spray it on anything thats powdercoated or itll bubble the paint.
3. to get rid of the wastegate noise go to any muffler/weld shop and tell them to make you a tube from your wastegate dump tube into your downpipe. itll be around $50 and take away that annoying sound (but you should get a catback if doing this)
4. take your wastegate off and make sure everything is there. there should be like a 1in diameter ring where it connects to the uppipe on the wastegate. (check the gasket)
5. you will eventually want to get metal gaskets for the wastegate because they will start leaking eventually
6. youll know when u have an exhaust leak when driving. you can hear air coming out of the pipe at low RPMs or you can stick ur hand at the flanges and feel air coming out. fix those as soon as you can
7. after tighting bolts on the exhaust, make sure you tighten them about 3 or 4 times after getting them hot to make sure that they are completely tight because they get loose over time and you might lose one.
that about does it for now
#44
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Taking Pics now, what would you like?
1 is bov
2 is dp
3 whole kit
4 original waste gate vaccume line i discorvered today; and replaced it but its still sounds the same and is doing the same thing
5 is turbo inlet from the uppipe (gasket)
let me know what other pics you would like....
1 is bov
2 is dp
3 whole kit
4 original waste gate vaccume line i discorvered today; and replaced it but its still sounds the same and is doing the same thing
5 is turbo inlet from the uppipe (gasket)
let me know what other pics you would like....
Last edited by Kelspar; Jun 30, 2005 at 05:36 PM.