Ok well good news; turbo seems to do better; i just dont try to go WOT on it and it seems to do fine; the waste gate still opens ~4k. Im assuming that acceleration should kinda bog out after 4k? Meaning i cant pull through every gear (or am i supposed to be able to?) I mean if i back off throttle it accelerates faster than WOT. Kind of like another person i saw had posted on here. Well the best thing outta all this is that the CEL is not on! I cant believe it. Insane! I havent had my CEL light off since before i put my Kamikazi headers on like 7 months ago. I just assume that the other problems i am having at high rpm are just fuel requirments i do not meet (ie: fuel rail; injectors) so i wont worry about it just yet. Anyone elses acceleration suck?

 

Bad news.......as soon as a restarted the car; BOOM cel light. I took it to show it to my uncle, while i was there he reved it up and then we tried to drive it and same thing happend yesterday when i reved it; my spark plugs were fouled. So as far as i can tell im running really rich; what can i do about this? Is this a simple fix or is it going to be a "go and buy a emanage"? Also i have an idea that i am going to have to replace the plugs that came with the kit soon, probably today; if i cant get the exact ngk plugs (bpr7es? something like that) can i use the ngk plugs that are for our cars normally, if i gap them down to .03? Thanks for your input!
-heath

 

no, you need the different heat range plugs that come with the kit or you will not be sparking correctly. around here they were a pain to find, call RRM they will send them ASAP.

 

yeup you definately need the colder plugs... they need to be the 7's gapped to .03

As for the running rich it doesn't sound like you are up top... i think your running richer down low at part throttle due to being at part throttle but when you open her up she's going lean.

Seriously before getting to far or blowing the motor hit the dyno to see what's going on with the fuel. From there we can tell you what/where to go to next.

 

I don't understand, he shouldn't have to have any of these problems. Why does he have to dyno? I just followed the instructions step by step and I didn't have any issues. Just get all your gauges so you can find out what your problem is.

 

Will do; got plugs ordered yesterday; going to get them today. The 7es.. let you know if anything else comes up

i might have to save up for a little sec for the wide band but its what i plan on getting.

 

From reading on this board about other running rich; i think it could be an o2 sensor. What do you think? My car does have 98k miles. I was going to order that aftermarket one from

https://www.automedicsupply.com/cata...1c6f2626ea243#

its only like 51$; they have the oem for 100ish alot better compared to the 300 they want at advanced.

 

bump bumpity bump bump!

 

bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump bump

free bumps for u, kelspar !!!!!

 

th(BUMP)anks(bump) bro!(bump)!

(subliminal bumps)

 

If you can figure out whats wrong without guessing then be my guest.

Id rather have a dyno showing me AFR's so i can atleast see if this is fuel related or not.

I could say, replace fmu, replace fuel pump, test/clean injectors, send turbo out for inspection... etc, etc, etc, but i'm not going to guess!!

Until you post some AFR's i can't really go any further other than to be guessing. Go to autozone and have your codes read if your check engine light is on... they usually do it for free. If your O2 sensor is bad it will show in the codes. Otherwise it is fine. To test it further have them read your short term fuel trims as you slowly rev the engine... if they remain at 0, or close to that as the trims constantly adjust, you know its working as well.

Stop listening to the others that have kits but not the fullest knowledge about the kit as well. There are only a few people on here that can guide you ROCK, Jeezer, and myself are the top people to listen to. Otherwise you could be chasing your tale and wasting time and money... worse yet you could damage your motor even though your butt dyno said everything was fine.

As you can tell i'm getting a little frustrated as your not listening to the best advice of all. Get on the dyno, get some AFR's, and for 80 bucks we can get the diagnosis going in the right direction.

If you want to spend 300 bucks for a wideband that's fine as well... i'm giving you the cheapest alternative i feel, aside from hooking up with a bud that has a wideband.

Nuff said!!

 

Ok well called a local shop for dyno; 80$ like you said; they told me the only thing they can test is a/f which i guess is fine since thats all i need. I have to setup an appointment but i have to goto work today to see when i have off. I also found out i have a missing header/uppipe bolt missing (just went missing today) and i need to find out what size it is. I've been trying to call rr but they arent open yet. Guess i have to wait another hour or so.

 

if you can't get ahold of them just get a bolt that is close and the matching nut. 1/2-13 should do it.

 

you did retighten all your bolts after driving your car around right?

 

Today i found a blown gasket; replaced it. Reset ecu; took it for test drive (15 min @ -3k) it ran fine. Go by my house to get something, i leave the car running. Come back out and leave, car starts sputtering like crazy. It's not the first time this car has done it since all this work, just saying its a little common problem ive been having. Anyway it breaks down to changing the plug and reseting ecu. Runs fine again for a little while but almost always goes back to sputtering, esp under throttle, if you get around 3k or + with this problem it just goes crazy; tach is jumping everywhere car is choking on a hairball, it was suggested to me by my uncle, who is an awesome mechanic, that i was running really lean and all the plugs had black at the bottem of the thread and white .....well you know those things thank hang over for the spark to jump to? They where all white. I keep reseting ecu for quick help but it goes back to this no matter what. I guess ill go get fuel ratios and report back (but it might be sometime). I also get a CEL after i turn my car off after just reseting the ecu, letting it idle and taking it for its 15 min warmup (under 3k of course), if i bring the car back and turn it off, the next time i turn it on the cel follows almost immediatly. I dont know right now, honestly im stuck. Ill just wait till i can get ratios to decide more i guess.