For some backround a few days ago i posted a thread won't stay running since then i have went over the car very well and still nothing. Besides now i can drive it around and it drives fine,boosts fine and there doesn't seem to be any lack of power. But it still idles rough and spudders when the car has warmed up or came down from high idle. When in neutral if i rev it up just little it will run fine(smooth out). And even run fine for about 30 sec after i rev it and let i back down to idle then the spuddering will start. Also if i drive it around awhile and then park it and let it idle it wil run fine for awhile. Any suggestions. So far i'v replaces mas,checked fuel pump,checked plugs,etc. Although on the news where i live they said there was some very bad gas going around but i don't think that would make my car stall(check old thread won't stay running for info on how it ran couple days ago).Thanks.
Mods=RRM intercooled kit
Garrett t25 turbo
walbro 255lph fuel pump
Vortech fmu
rrm intercooler@piping
Turbo xs boost controller
greddy type rs bov
hks turbo timer

 

Depends on how the gas was "bad".

Bad gas could very well stall out your car(not likly though), make rough idle. Couple weeks ago when one of the techs took his bike out of storage he started it up(year a half old gas in it)jumped like a rabid animal was very VERY rough idle.

assuming since you turbo'ed it your running the good stuff(93 octane-91 for you Cali people =O), right =P?

 

Also, did you get it scanned for codes?

If serves right, you put new plugs in? Check to see if ALL of them had spark? One MIGHT be carbon tracked or something and grounding out before it gets to cylinder. Did you replace the PCV valve(its the valve thats inside the vacuum line that connects to the top of your valve cover, 20 or so bucks at CAP)?

Also, did you check to see if your Injectors or clogged? Should hear them clicking(long screw driver, put it up to injector, should hear it clearly). Also check for vacuum leaks

But getting it scanned will help alot, it will elimate any electronics you might of shorted out(very likly as water and electrical dont mix 8-P). EX: oxygen sensor, Air Flow Meter, Throttle position sensor. All of these should throw a code in the computer.

But heres my screen name, if you want shoot me an IM, Oh Snap Its Tebo

 

running 93 octane,didn't get it scanned yet,going to do tommorrow. Didn't replace pcv valve. My plugs looked perfect. if all of them didn't have spark wouldn't it drive poor. Because when i took it around the block it drove perfect.

 

oh yea all i did to check the inj is stuck a long screw driver to one end and listened through the other all seemed to be clicking. Thanks for tring to help. I called mitsu and they wouldn't even look at the car because of the mods.

 

is the pvc valve the part that comes of the valve cover and the big vac line connects to it. Prob something i should know but never had to deal with one before?

 

Yes, its inside that Vac line right near the cover. They can cause some pretty funky symptoms you wouldent think of. I usually change mine every/everyother tune-up(Overkill I suppose, I know people who go MILES and MILES with just one, but meh, I keep good care of my car)

Youve pretty much covered the whole ignition/firing system eh. I'm guessing that scan will pull a code, TPS or something.

Only other thing I could suggest is double check connections? lol I had a sunfire come in for roughidle/misfire from time to time, it was the coil pack, the part where the boot connects to it, was rusted to high hell (rusted cause of water or high voltage fried it)

 

Taken right from Alldata

ALSO, was the gap right on your plugs?

Stock calls for 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043 inch)

No clue in hell what they want for it turbo'ed though, ask the maker of the turbo

 

yea for the turbo gap is .030. Thanks for the pic,hopefully the scan will show a code just hope my car gets there with out stalling. It didn't yesterday bu only went around the block a couple of times.

 

anyone else have any suggestions

 

The kit listed above didn't list a piggy or other fuel mgmt besides the FMU. Heard of many idling issues caused by our ecu's just not "learning" F/I. That's just another option I've heard and read about on here...

 

until stage 2 the only e/m is pump and fmu. It's just wierd because the car has been running perfect for two years until about a week ago. Which im aware a part can go at any time. Thanks for you imput though, i can take any i can get cause at this point im stumped?

 

May not be related at all, but check for any leaks in the intake system, as well as any leaks from the bov recirculation. I know a leaking intake or BOV recirc system will make your car run last crap and idle poorly

 

Good call.

Dident know the setup was a recirc setup, that could very well cause the car to run poorly/stall out

 

yea checked that even put the stock bov that came with the kit back on still nothing. I'll look at it one more time though. Thanks for tring to help out. The cars been down for almost a week 1/2 now. Getting very frustrated.