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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

03 lancer es Evo 8 build

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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #1171  
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Im not sure about the injectors. Personally I would go with larger injectors. But it might be sufficient for you guys. Im not sure! But I would def go with some bigger injectors. Just my two cents. Nice build by far though. I look forward to hearing your final results.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #1172  
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Originally Posted by zulu989
Up pipe has no oil in it. It's a new turbo. I cleaned the jpipe and drove and it was dirty again. Is the intercooler always pressurized or does it see any vacuum?
Not a real vaccum in the sense like in the manifold but it drops to just below ambient pressure when at idle.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #1173  
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3 an line on, still smokes when boost but not rele when driving and idling. Testing tomorrow but think I am gonna need a 3 an restrictor onto of my other one
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #1174  
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Originally Posted by zulu989
3 an line on, still smokes when boost but not rele when driving and idling. Testing tomorrow but think I am gonna need a 3 an restricter onto of my other one
I'm practically drowning my turbo in oil with a -4an line and no restricter, and I don't see any smoke on mine. What weight oil do you run? I'm on 5w30 mobile 1 extended performance.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #1175  
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Same oil. Why else would there be oil by the compressor and jpipe? I just had A offer of 7000 for my car if I can stop it smoking. Need a solution asap
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #1176  
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I guess, I have a little bit of oil in my compressor inlet whenever I remove the intake pipe, but only like a couple drops. Smoke can come from a couple things, one would be the seals being bad...which you've ruled out by rebuilding/replacing the turbo I think....unless the new is ALSO bad. The other thing would be maybe a headgasket issue, or a block crack, because it's only when you're pushing it right?

The thing I'm wondering about though is that you see oil in the intake side right, can you take the downpipe off and see oil in there as well? I really don't see how too much oil would cause an issue, if your seals are good and your drain is clean/clear and has no back pressure.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:21 AM
  #1177  
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Almost done taking it all apart now
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:53 AM
  #1178  
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Only place I found oil was compressor side. Exhaust wheel dry to bone. Header dry. Maybe a slight kink in my oil return line? And it's 3/4 inch diameter. Think it's a oil backup?
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 08:06 AM
  #1179  
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So, do you think the smoke then could be coolant?

Are we talking copious amounts of oil on the intake wheel? And yeah, a kink in the return is no good, it's got to be totally free of restriction at best, and at worst it needs to drain faster than the oil is coming in.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #1180  
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Lots of oil in compressor side, why u think coolant, smells like oil
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 08:25 AM
  #1181  
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I dunno, just throwing it out as another possibility since you replaced the seals then the turbo and then got a new turbo. What I don't get though, is that 3 different turbos, all leaking oil into the intake and exhaust, so either the oil is backing up and not lubricating and destroying them, or the seals on all of them are bad, right?

Demon says too much oil makes it leak into the intake and exhaust, but it's hard to define too much oil, other than being so full that it can't drain out, right? I mean, just being heavily lubricated should be fine unless you can't drain the oil out.

Still....leaking means the seal is no good, wouldn't you say? I can't help but think you've had a run of bad luck with all failed seals or something.

This was on one of the google searches i looked at:

Code:
Leaking turbocharger seals. Oil in exhaust. Oil in intake
Remove intake tubes and wash out oil. Re-install and run engine for short period. Remove intake tube and see whether oil is traveling from turbo to cylinder or visa versa. Oil in the exhaust system upstream of the turbocharger indicates malfunction such as problems with rings, pistons, or valves. If engine idles too slow, turbo does not turn allowing oil to leak from compressor seal. Leak in compressor seal can be caused by:

(a) air cleaner element clogged or restriction in duct between air cleaner and turbocharger which can cause oil to be drawn past the turbocharger seal at the compressor end,
(b) restriction or faulty check valve in turbocharger oil drain line, which may raise the oil level in the turbocharger center housing and cause seal leakage,
(c) malfunction in oil scavenge pump,
(d) restriction in engine crankcase breather,
(e) worn or damaged compressor wheel,
(f) turbocharger shaft bearings or bearing bores worn,
(g) crankcase pressurization causing backpressure into oil drain line due to piston blowby.
and this
Code:
Another cause of turbocharger failures is inlet restrictions from plugged air cleaners, collapsing hose connections or undersized air pipes. These restrictions reduce the air supply to the turbo and ultimately to the engine resulting in excessive exhaust temperatures leading to turbine housing cracking and scaling or even turbine wheel failures.

Inlet restrictions also can produce a vacuum inside the compressor. This can cause over speed conditions in the turbo which can lead to premature bearing failure or even make a compressor wheel burst. This vacuum inside the compressor also can cause oil leakage into the compressor.

The turbo's oil seals depend upon a positive air pressure inside the compressor and turbine to "push" the oil inside the bearing housing and keep oil from seeping into the outer housings. In an inlet restriction situation, the vacuum wants to "pull" the oil past the oil seals. Prolonged oil leakage into the compressor can lead to oil seal damage and excessive engine smoking.

Prolonged engine idling also can cause turbocharger oil seal failure, this time on the turbine side. Continued idling causes the turbo to rotate without producing boost. Consequently, a vacuum condition on the turbine side tries to "pull" oil past the turbine-side oil seal and into the turbine housing.
So, I'm thinking maybe your breather hose? restrictive intake maybe? could be partially tied to your oil dipstick blow out issues you previously had....some problem causing that and this!



Last thing:
Code:
If exhaust is smoky

Check compressor outlet for oil, check compressor inlet for oil.

If compressor outlet is not oily, check turbine outlet for oil.

If oil is present, Turbo is OK, check PCV system for clogs.

If oil is found, it is an internal engine issue. If it is not found in turbine, Turbo is OK, smoke is from car engine.

If compressor inlet is not oily, check for restriction in turbo oil supply tube.

Repair restriction if found. If none is found, check for restriction in the turbo oil return tube. Remove restriction if found, if now, replace turbocharger.
Also, I read that the 14b, 16g, 20g...well, a ton of mitsu turbos, all have internal restrictors.


I keep reading more... but this link too http://www.allpar.com/mopar/turbo-faq.php

Last edited by HornstarBU; Nov 12, 2011 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #1182  
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Smoking when I boost now, not regular driving but still oil in jpipe. I got a .04 restrictor on the way. Do u think I could add some sort of additive to the oil that will help the seal?
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 10:36 AM
  #1183  
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I read more of that link and it said if there was a block and I unkinked it then it's possible the rings will reseat but how long till that happens
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #1184  
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I checked the Pcv valve and it wasn't going to a vacuum line. I stuck it on the left port of the intake manifold to see if that helps, dunno how long it will take for the seals to reseat
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #1185  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by zulu989
I checked the Pcv valve and it wasn't going to a vacuum line. I stuck it on the left port of the intake manifold to see if that helps, dunno how long it will take for the seals to reseat
I think if the PCV wasn't hooked up, that would increase the pressure of the oil draining or, I guess...you know what i mean. It would prevent the oil from going where it's supposed to, and instead press past the seals. The thing about the seals though, I don't necessarily think they will re-seat...they'll either be okay or not, right?

Anyway, give it some time and lets see.
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