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02 Lancer ES Turbo Project

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Old Jun 30, 2010, 07:26 PM
  #616  
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I was actually reusing the washers so that might be the problem anyone know where I can get two at?

actually tell me which store might carry them or better yet a auto dealer

I just need 2 soft copper crush washers, and what size I need for the stock evo 8 turbo... I need them tomorrow asap because im off all day and it will be my last chance to actually work on the car before I leave

Last edited by steven121; Jun 30, 2010 at 08:09 PM.
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:26 PM
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yur local auto parts store should have some. i know we do where i work.

josh
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:29 PM
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they are normal 12mm crush washers...make sure you get copper ones , alot of cars switched to rubber ringed and teflon sealing washers on the oil drain plug they will not work at all...if you have an advance or autozone they come in the help section in an assortment , the banjo bolt gets bolted down to 23 ft. lbs....

off topic but I dont think the sandwich feed adapter is ok to use in this situation problem is the incredibly low psi at idle , couple that with having to flow through a paper filter and long line to hit the turbo , its probably 2 psi at idle not enough to feed hot turbo bearings...

I suggest removing the 3/8 bspt allen plug above the filter its an 8mm allen and replacing it with a 90 degree 3/8" bspt to 1/4" jic fitting , jic 1/4" is identical to a -4 an fitting with the same 37 degree taper that AN fittings use...

the fitting is not 3/8" NPT contrary to popular belief it is labeled as bspt(british tapered),mitsubishi,komatsu threads and is specific to most japanese cars and obviously mitsubishi...the boss is so thin using an 3/8" npt will crack it , if you need one Pm me
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by turbolancer02
they are normal 12mm crush washers...make sure you get copper ones , alot of cars switched to rubber ringed and teflon sealing washers on the oil drain plug they will not work at all...if you have an advance or autozone they come in the help section in an assortment , the banjo bolt gets bolted down to 23 ft. lbs....

off topic but I dont think the sandwich feed adapter is ok to use in this situation problem is the incredibly low psi at idle , couple that with having to flow through a paper filter and long line to hit the turbo , its probably 2 psi at idle not enough to feed hot turbo bearings...

I suggest removing the 3/8 bspt allen plug above the filter its an 8mm allen and replacing it with a 90 degree 3/8" bspt to 1/4" jic fitting , jic 1/4" is identical to a -4 an fitting with the same 37 degree taper that AN fittings use...

the fitting is not 3/8" NPT contrary to popular belief it is labeled as bspt(british tapered),mitsubishi,komatsu threads and is specific to most japanese cars and obviously mitsubishi...the boss is so thin using an 3/8" npt will crack it , if you need one Pm me
Is that like 2 psi from the filter to the turbo? Cause my oil pressure gauge shows 20-30psi at idle when the car is fully warmed up.
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by turbolancer02
they are normal 12mm crush washers...make sure you get copper ones , alot of cars switched to rubber ringed and teflon sealing washers on the oil drain plug they will not work at all...if you have an advance or autozone they come in the help section in an assortment , the banjo bolt gets bolted down to 23 ft. lbs....

off topic but I dont think the sandwich feed adapter is ok to use in this situation problem is the incredibly low psi at idle , couple that with having to flow through a paper filter and long line to hit the turbo , its probably 2 psi at idle not enough to feed hot turbo bearings...

I suggest removing the 3/8 bspt allen plug above the filter its an 8mm allen and replacing it with a 90 degree 3/8" bspt to 1/4" jic fitting , jic 1/4" is identical to a -4 an fitting with the same 37 degree taper that AN fittings use...

the fitting is not 3/8" NPT contrary to popular belief it is labeled as bspt(british tapered),mitsubishi,komatsu threads and is specific to most japanese cars and obviously mitsubishi...the boss is so thin using an 3/8" npt will crack it , if you need one Pm me
Well crap then... this is what i have sitting in my office, because kungfu's build thread said 3/8th npt. So, it's not the same and I need a new one then, ya? how much buddy?
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by turbolancer02
they are normal 12mm crush washers...make sure you get copper ones , alot of cars switched to rubber ringed and teflon sealing washers on the oil drain plug they will not work at all...if you have an advance or autozone they come in the help section in an assortment , the banjo bolt gets bolted down to 23 ft. lbs....

off topic but I dont think the sandwich feed adapter is ok to use in this situation problem is the incredibly low psi at idle , couple that with having to flow through a paper filter and long line to hit the turbo , its probably 2 psi at idle not enough to feed hot turbo bearings...

I suggest removing the 3/8 bspt allen plug above the filter its an 8mm allen and replacing it with a 90 degree 3/8" bspt to 1/4" jic fitting , jic 1/4" is identical to a -4 an fitting with the same 37 degree taper that AN fittings use...

the fitting is not 3/8" NPT contrary to popular belief it is labeled as bspt(british tapered),mitsubishi,komatsu threads and is specific to most japanese cars and obviously mitsubishi...the boss is so thin using an 3/8" npt will crack it , if you need one Pm me
I would do this but its kinda too late I sealed the oil pan and the oil adapter wont budge from that spot. Like it fits snug in there and will only move about half an inch down and then its stuck, I didnt buy the one thats half a circle but I bought the one that is kinda like a hexagon. But thanks for letting me know what kind of washers I needed and how many pounds of torque I think that was my problem to begin with.

so heres whats going down tomorrow, heading up to autozone im going to buy my 2 soft crush copper washers, and im going to undo the turbo once more and torque this hoe down and this should offically stop my leak, I dont mind a minor leak from the return because I can always work on that later at my house but I need the car to get to my house because its a 30 min drive from my home to that shop and if I cant get done by tomorrow then im I have tilll friday at 3:00 pm then its time to head to wisconsin, and then I can chill with josh for a few hours in his lancer and show me what im missing when I get back home. so friday morning I will let you guys know if this worked or not but I have a great feeling it will....
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Well crap then... this is what i have sitting in my office, because kungfu's build thread said 3/8th npt. So, it's not the same and I need a new one then, ya? how much buddy?
haha should have stuck with the adapter because then you can always add an oil press gauge, it shouldn t cost you more than 30 bucks just buy looking at it on 03lances thread, because you probably have to get a feed line for that as well
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:50 PM
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ya let me know when yur gonna be in the area... i gotta get stuff up to the shop to be cleaned and planed for the rex!

josh
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JRR
ya let me know when yur gonna be in the area... i gotta get stuff up to the shop to be cleaned and planed for the rex!

josh
where do you work at to get those washers? I might have to get some if we have that store down here, can I get any copper crush washers?
Old Jul 1, 2010, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Is that like 2 psi from the filter to the turbo? Cause my oil pressure gauge shows 20-30psi at idle when the car is fully warmed up.
I think your gauge is bad bro

Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294
686 kPa (43 100 psi) <-mitsu service manual specs

Normal that Ive seen at mitsu while fixing these cars is no higher then 17 psi if that at a hot idle ...

Anderson, I know people have been using the npt fitting , probably didnt know about the bspt fittings , haha .
you wont get a proper thread engagement on the 3/8" part , I'll pm you with the info , its only about $14 shipped for the correct one
Old Jul 1, 2010, 09:46 AM
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i work a t a wisconsin based auto parts store. so unfortunaltley they are not down bu where u live...
Old Jul 1, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by turbolancer02
I think your gauge is bad bro

Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294
686 kPa (43 100 psi) <-mitsu service manual specs

Normal that Ive seen at mitsu while fixing these cars is no higher then 17 psi if that at a hot idle ...

Anderson, I know people have been using the npt fitting , probably didnt know about the bspt fittings , haha .
you wont get a proper thread engagement on the 3/8" part , I'll pm you with the info , its only about $14 shipped for the correct one
This is factory stock spec. Also it sounds to me like 4.7 is the absolute bottom you want to be at. My car is not stock and am running a Much Much heavier oil being turbo'd. I dont think my gauge is bad its brand new. Its around 70 psi at cruising. Anybody else have an oil pressure gauge that can chime in?

Last edited by 03lances; Jul 1, 2010 at 10:04 AM.
Old Jul 1, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
This is factory stock spec. Also it sounds to me like 4.7 is the absolute bottom you want to be at. My car is not stock and am running a Much Much heavier oil being turbo'd. I dont think my gauge is bad its brand new. Its around 70 psi at cruising. Anybody else have an oil pressure gauge that can chime in?
ditto ^ mines the same so i dont think its bad
Old Jul 1, 2010, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by turbolancer02
I think your gauge is bad bro

Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294
686 kPa (43 100 psi) <-mitsu service manual specs

Normal that Ive seen at mitsu while fixing these cars is no higher then 17 psi if that at a hot idle ...

Anderson, I know people have been using the npt fitting , probably didnt know about the bspt fittings , haha .
you wont get a proper thread engagement on the 3/8" part , I'll pm you with the info , its only about $14 shipped for the correct one

Oye, that thread size turbolancer quoted for the hex nut is WICKED rare. I asked the "hydrolic" place up the street from my office if they had it, and they don't. They have 3/8bspt to 38/jic, and then a 3/8jic to 1/4jic...so I'll go grab that and see how it feels. For 8 bucks or whatever, it should be fine.

Like steven said...oil sandwich might be nice. The thing that worries me there though, is what happens when you change your oil, is there a chance of loosening the sandwich? I'm thinking as far as an oil pressure gauge later, I can just T my hex nut spot and add it there. Basically the same as the sandwich.
Old Jul 1, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by steven121
I would do this but its kinda too late I sealed the oil pan and the oil adapter wont budge from that spot. Like it fits snug in there and will only move about half an inch down and then its stuck, I didnt buy the one thats half a circle but I bought the one that is kinda like a hexagon. But thanks for letting me know what kind of washers I needed and how many pounds of torque I think that was my problem to begin with.

so heres whats going down tomorrow, heading up to autozone im going to buy my 2 soft crush copper washers, and im going to undo the turbo once more and torque this hoe down and this should offically stop my leak, I dont mind a minor leak from the return because I can always work on that later at my house but I need the car to get to my house because its a 30 min drive from my home to that shop and if I cant get done by tomorrow then im I have tilll friday at 3:00 pm then its time to head to wisconsin, and then I can chill with josh for a few hours in his lancer and show me what im missing when I get back home. so friday morning I will let you guys know if this worked or not but I have a great feeling it will....
When you said "I would do this, but it's too late, I sealed the pan and the adaptor won't budge from that spot"....what did you mean? I was thrown off I guess, with talk of the sending, and the oil pan being the return. Also...........any thoughts on below the filter vs that hex nut? I think what turbo was saying is the oil has to be pulled through the paper filter, that happens at either spot, right? sandwich vs that nut.


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