HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

There is good threads on this, I think in 03lances thread.

The ECU can run in open loop or closed loop.

While in closed loop, the engine uses the narrowband o2 sensor to make adjustments to the AFR constantly striving for 14.7. I don't know that the engine actually stays at 14.7 because in the fuel map tables, a setting of 14.7 does not mean the car will be at 14.7, it's just a number.

While in open loop, the engine is following the fuel maps you have in your rom, without adjusting via the o2 sensor. This is where the true power comes from, meaning once the turbo spools, you get that dense compressed air going in to the engine, so you can inject more gas as well. more hp's, but with the chance of blowing your engine to many pieces.

Basically everything else still applies, if there is knock, timing gets pulled and all that. So, there are tables that tell the ECU when to go open loop though, based on ecuload or throttle position methinks. 03lances maps had that, if you just blindly flashed his info in. If you edited your map to contain his map and timing, then you may not have the openloop thresholds.

Basically, without that tactrix cable or someone knowledgable tuning the car, you shouldn't go over 3500 rpm's, not even to impress an extra hot chick (or dude, not in a weird way, just no macho stuff). Without knowing what's in there, what's going on, and what the ecu is currently set to do....danger follows you. Take this time while you're waiting to get the cable to read up on the forums about ecutuning. Check the "how to tune an evo" thread, realizing your car is not an evo and should not be identical in tuning practice. Give the links a good read that HobieKopek posted a while back on general EFI tuning advice.

What is your wideband reading right now btw? Just idling and cruising around....not doing hard acceleration or anything.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

I dont know for a fact I have to plug in the O2 sensor plugged in because theres not enough room I have to get another O2 bung welded in so I can use the O2 sensor, do you think the car could be running like crap because the O2 sensor is not plugged in?

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I think it uses the front one to adjust AFR and the rear one to check the efficiency of the front cat, so if the front one is there it ought to run normal in "safe" driving conditions. If it runs like crap when you floor it, which you shouldn't be, but if it does....then that's probably a fuel map problem. A bad one at that, because without logging data you can run rich or lean by a few afr and not be able to tell without a wideband.....and yet still do massive damage to the car.

*edit* without a wideband though, you don't know if your engine is doing terrible things to itself. Without logging knock you don't know if you are going nutz on the pistons and rods. without logging fuel trims you don't know if you are maxing out your fuel adjustments via the ecu due to poor latency or injector scaling. All of these things are required to make sure the tune is nice and sexy for your specific car.

I guess my question is this then, are you just waiting to get the tactrix cable due to money? or because you want to see if you "really need it" before spending money on it. Because if you can't afford one, I understand that...I've got money problems myself, but if you just don't think it's that important, I'd say next to the actual turbo itself it may be one of the most important pieces of the puzzle.

*notha edit* What do you mean it runs like crap? bad idle? bad cruising? feel like it's going to stall when you decel?

steven121

iTrader: (27)

like I try to accell lightly and when I get ready to shift I feel like the brakes have been applied very lightly but the engine doesnt cut out, I think there might be too much fuel in the engine when I het a certain amount of rpms not sure but when I get money for the cable I will start logging and tell you guys whats up so we can get this car tuned

steven121

iTrader: (27)

exhaust cut and welded the exhaust flange where your O2 snesor is down not bolt directly up to the evo 8 downpipe...



new flange welded on to fit my test pipe



pics of downpipe and licp


turbo manifold was silver, but the heat just change the color it still looks sweet


front bumper went on today


90 degree elbow for air filter


evo 9 bov highly recommended than the plastic one


I need another hose that bends out the way of the radiator pipe but it still connects on


make sure you bend that little hose out the way or grind some of the O2 housing down where the downpipe connects to the housing


beautiful manifold from speedcorps!!!


teed vacumn lines


my wholeset up looks pretty good to me

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

It's just so pretty!!!! So you have your intake vac/boost going to the t's, where it runs to a boost gauge and your bov, and the fpr. Is your WGA hooked to your nipple on the jpipe?

So, about the rough running, your injectors are scaled and the latency updated, right? Any by accel, you're talking less than 3500 rpms and the throttle less than half way pressed, right? It's really tough to know though, you know...the guys who did the tune, or flashed the tune, did they know about mitsu's and custom jobs and what not, I mean I assume if they had a tactrix cable the do.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

update your "I drive a 2002 es" to say it's an "ES-T" lol, you know you want to!

steven121

iTrader: (27)

lol I will, well I been drving her really easy but she runs good, I just need to get those maps scaled, speedcorps is working on my tune now and trying to turn it into a hex file so I can flash it.

cincy

flip the bov around. You want to pressure to come to the side of the valve and not the bottom. Functions much better that way

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

So what rom are you using steven? Tephra mod?

steven121

iTrader: (27)

flip it around? the backpressure from the turbo is going to be where all the piping connects together, and the little cylinder piece is where it pushes up, which releases the pressure to the intake tube... I think its fine the way it is now. other wise the pressure will just push against the bov where the pressure will just build up and not release causing compressor surge


Im using a flash that someone else modded for thier car which worked great for them, I have to tweak it to be able to boost the car, but speed corps is building a rom for me not sure what kind but he said this was built for my car. Each person that tunes has to have a good certain way to tune the car to make it run the way you want it to

cincy

Incorrect. Having the pressure to the side of the valve instead of the bottom requires less spring tension for the valve to stay closed and gives a faster reaction. It is how stock and aftermarket valves are setup.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Steven I think I know what's happening. I can't remember exactly but this was one of the problems I was still working on in this tune. I think I had the open loop thresholds set too low and so under very mild acceleration even just a spirited stoplight takeoff it would go into open loop too soon before hitting boost and dump that extra fuel too early causing the loss in power you are experiencing

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

so you guys are using closed loop as a forced 14.7 AFR point?

To be honest I have my open loop load on my SD evo here set to 10 load for anything above 1000rpm. Drives fine with a perfect 14.7 AFR even if i have the AC blasting.

Something doesn't seem right to me if thats going on like the injectors aren't scaled right or the maf is tweaking out.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

Yup, this is my worry that something is off but you can't tell without logs. I think you could get that cable from the tuner for a bit, take some logs, and then do a basic tune in areas that require it? That would at least let you get something to post on here for us all to see and you could make sure you aren't getting weird fuel trims, like pegging them 1 way or the other.