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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:32 AM
  #61  
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From: Albany, GA
Originally Posted by BillAce
Buy a better amp instead. To make sure you don't have a voltage problem:

Your power wire needs to be big enough. with the car off, measure voltage @ the battery. It should be no more than .5 Volts less at the amplifier. The closer to the battery voltage the better, less resistance. Upgrade the ground wires to the battery. They aren't sufficient for the extra current demand of the amplifier and will hurt performance. Make the body ground thicker and go from the engine-body, engine-battery as well. Make sure the amp ground is the same wire gauge as the power wire. Keep it as short as possible and connect it to bare metal to have a good connection. The car chassis is a far better ground than any wire that could be run under your carpet. Doing this right will reduce the need for a band aid like a cap. Fix problems, don't hide them.
okay, so the ground wire from the amp to wher eI termniate it at should be as short as possible... correct??? You say ground wires under the hood... where are the groud wires are??? the Black cable coming off the batt, you say bigger.... what gauge? and should i term the same spot where the black wire is or??? heh am i understanding this right??
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #62  
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So you guys are saying that I should not have rears at all?? if thats the case then hmm I can send back two infinties more money!1!!! hehe
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:38 AM
  #63  
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Sorry, can't help with the wiring/fitment issues, but just wanted to comment: Great choices... I've always loved Infinity Kappa. I had some green 12" that matched my old car and they hit tight, but also could make your hair shake outside of the car!
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:45 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Nevaeh
I can send back two infinties more money!1!!! hehe
Oh... I guess never mind my comment
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:49 AM
  #65  
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From: Albany, GA
Originally Posted by SterlingEvo
Oh... I guess never mind my comment
NONO!!!! lol I'm getting four1!! hehe I love infinties!!! Infinties are thes hit they are crisp and just plain *** clear... I have a 15' sub. and 4 6-1/2 Kappa 3-way series 6.35i speakers two for the doors and two for the rear deck.... errrmmm through all these posts I've realized that I don't need the ones for the rear deck... I think.. heh so If I don't need them I'll get my money on them... and I'll put the one in the front along with my tweets.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #66  
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Ok...back from lunch. Let's see...first, more good info from BillAce! I totally agree with the cap comments. That's why I said you could add one later if you wanted/needed it. If you see your lights dim considerably when your sub hits...a cap would help. If you use adequate power cable and are properly grounded, it probably won't be an issue. I just thought you wanted a cap, so I included it in my lame wiring instructions. lol.

So there ya go...more $ back from one set of Infinities, $ saved from most likely not needing a cap...now you can redirect that $ toward a NICE 4 channel amp for your fronts. I think you mentioned earlier that you didn't want to go over $500 for another amp...well, you can easily have a sweet sweet amp for that amount. **Hey everybody who's reading this...help our guy out with suggestions & prices please. ** Just get a Zapco amp and be done with it....ch-ching! << Zapco is incredible...but pricey! Seriously, there are sooooo many options here I don't know where to start...I'll throw JL out there (def under $500!) for starters.

If you want to have all bases covered...get 4 gauge power and ground cable, a good inline fuse (if you don't already have one), a good distribution block (if you tell your local shop what your amp setup is going to be, they should hook ya up with the right dist. block), and good connectors all the way around (so your setup is nice, clean and safe). Can anybody else think of anything I missed?
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 11:06 AM
  #67  
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Yeah. You missed the fact that the local shop is gonna charge him out the a$$ for that wire. At least around here they think wire by the foot is platinum by the inch. Shop around online.

Personally, I use Bill Greenburg's stuff, he's the guy from www.knukonceptz.com I've used a LOT of wire, and I really dig his stuff, and his prices. Can't say as I've found a better product for the money. I run his 0ga and speaker wire. I've installed his stuff in about 5 other cars, and it's all been of phenominal quality, shipped VERY quickly, and Bill has always been a hell of a stand up guy.

Yep... sounds like an ad... I am in no way sponsored, paid, or even thanked for giving Bill props. But I believe in supporting businesses that offer good customer service, and good prices. (You'll also find that i've popped his name up a few times in other threads) Ask around... I don't think I've EVER heard a complaint about Knukonceptz.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 11:32 AM
  #68  
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Sweet, well next question is how do I measure the wire? I mean from the outermost hood to the tail lights??? blah... andI'm looking up the Z aamp thing you toldme about Black... speaking of which have any one of you guys heard of J&E Imports...???
Well thats my fathers company I'm going to see if I can get him to post here maybe hook you guys up...
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 12:34 PM
  #69  
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You missed the fact that the local shop is gonna charge him out the a$$ for that wire. At least around here they think wire by the foot is platinum by the inch. Shop around online.

Personally, I use Bill Greenburg's stuff, he's the guy from www.knukonceptz.com I've used a LOT of wire, and I really dig his stuff, and his prices.
Good lookin' out Hank! I was just saying "local shop" because I figured Nevaeh didn't have any good hook ups since this is his first system. But a friend in the biz or a known good resource is always better than most local shops. Fortunately I have a friend who manages a local shop...a nice one too! I might have to check out Billy-Bill's stuff too though.

About the cable length...I'd say about 20' of power cable and about 5' of ground (but try to use the shortest piece possible to a good grounding point) oughta do it. I didn't personally measure mine when I ran it...it was just some stuff (good stuff) I had laying around, so I used it. Can anyone else agree with or correct me on the length? About your dad hooking us up...hell yeah, bring on the deals! If he has products that people on here are after, he could gain some business while helping out us poor little Lancer owners. lol. Thanks!
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 12:41 PM
  #70  
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Just buy one of bill's kits. I've used a few of them, and there's MORE than enough wire for most jobs. Comes with TONS of extra stuff... I honestly don't know how he makes any money. I always end up getting more than he lists in my boxes.

For a rough measure, 20' of power is MORE than enough, 5' of ground is a lot, I'd go no more than 3' but the extra is nice to have.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #71  
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Heh, Well I'll have to talk to him heh, a bud of mine was like man why in hell don't have hook your LS up lol your drivng a ****h car heh and that car be bad as hell with your dads shop... heh and the I just forgot all about it but it makes sense now lol perhaps I should I'm sure he ouwld like for oyu guys posisby brand his logos though I'm there there wont be any problems there (hyell I don't he will care as long as oyu spread the word about it as far as wire hmm... I'll be on it tonight!!! lol I'll be able to get this all done here pretty wuick you bet I'll post some pics...
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 01:41 PM
  #72  
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Just buy one of bill's kits. I've used a few of them, and there's MORE than enough wire for most jobs. Comes with TONS of extra stuff... I honestly don't know how he makes any money. I always end up getting more than he lists in my boxes.

For a rough measure, 20' of power is MORE than enough, 5' of ground is a lot, I'd go no more than 3' but the extra is nice to have.
Yeah, I was guessing a little long b/c I'd hate to say 17' and have it be 17' 1".
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 05:39 AM
  #73  
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heh I went to talk to the boys a re the local shop here, and I asked them for a power cable splice thing.. and they looked at me funny heh, where can I get one? that kuntronics I'll try there I'll keep you posted.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 05:56 AM
  #74  
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distribution block is what you meant to say.

also billace just for clarification

Another fact is that since the Evo's rear speakers are in the rear deck. They are being oscillated at the same frequency as teh subwoofer is playing. This means, unless the rear is sealed off, they will not sound very good. This isn't that noticeable since you really only hear reflections from them anyway.

Did you mean have a sealed sub box or are you saying add an additional layer between the box and the speakers? if thats the case how would you go about doing that with such small space?

Also Just for fun I roughted all the power to my component speakers in the front and left the back off there was deffinately a difference in the way the music sounded.. but according to your post (the long one) your only hearing the resounding waves off the windshield... That isn't the way it sounded to me at all just like you can tell where someone is located in the dark if they talk to you.. There is a very noticeable difference in where sound comes from and I realize you prefer all of it comming from the front but I kinda prefered the way it sounded when it was all around
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 06:37 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
distribution block is what you meant to say.

also billace just for clarification

Another fact is that since the Evo's rear speakers are in the rear deck. They are being oscillated at the same frequency as teh subwoofer is playing. This means, unless the rear is sealed off, they will not sound very good. This isn't that noticeable since you really only hear reflections from them anyway.

Did you mean have a sealed sub box or are you saying add an additional layer between the box and the speakers? if thats the case how would you go about doing that with such small space?

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Actually sealing the rear wave of the deck speaker, so it can play in it's own environment and not be moved by the sub, regardless of sub enclosure type.

Also Just for fun I roughted all the power to my component speakers in the front and left the back off there was deffinately a difference in the way the music sounded.. but according to your post (the long one) your only hearing the resounding waves off the windshield... That isn't the way it sounded to me at all just like you can tell where someone is located in the dark if they talk to you.. There is a very noticeable difference in where sound comes from and I realize you prefer all of it comming from the front but I kinda prefered the way it sounded when it was all around
You heard your front speakers all around you too. Sound doesn't just reflect off the windshield, you have glass all around you. You get so many reflections and different arrival times just from the front speakers that getting a soundstage and image is difficult. Add in the rears and double the reflections, arrival times and throw in some phase problems and the entire stereo effect is lost. This is why speaker location is so important. Kick panels help equalize path lengths and that helps the stereo effect, plus the drivers are mounted lower, where the reflective surfaces of the car have less of an effect. I think it's the simplest way to get accurate reproduction. I have an IASYS and MLISSA in addition to the normal RTA and you really can't beleive how long a single note takes to dissipate in a car until you see it. A car truly is a horrible place to have good sound, but that's what makes it fun.
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