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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 01:29 PM
  #16  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by Mitsiman
If you are looking to remove the MAF sensor then as an alternative - consider one of our Haltech plug and play units. Direct plug into the stock ecu wiring harness, and comes with a baseline tune, this basically allows you to go to the dyno and tune the car to whatever level you wish. The baseline tune as we do more of them will become more and more sophisticated but woudl still need to be checked on a dyno.
Well... If I do come down to that... I'll look more into the MegaSquirt. I got a buddy in Montreal who is currently putting the pieces together(might already be done) and will develop a few maps for it
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #17  
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All right... so I gave a try to the maf screw thing. I took it out completly tonight. It feels different... can't really explain it... it's just different. There is no bugging no hesitation no idle issue. It kinda feels like less torque but more hp or just an even smoother powerband.

I'll have to hookup the Auterra and make a few runs to know for sure.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #18  
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This question is directed more toward RRM but if somebody else has an idea feel free to share... How much more do you think we can extract from the box on a 91octane map for application specific map? As stated in another post... when RRM produced the box they had to stay somewhat conservative so the box was safe to use by everyone...

So if I was to get it tune for my specific application, even though many people run the same mods every application is still slightly different, how much more power could I extract from a 91 map? And what about a 94map and what about a 87 map?

Without going into the R4 software release crap... Assuming I had the software I could always switch from 1 map to another 1... so 94 map for track days, 87 map for tight wallet days and 91 for everyday use.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #19  
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I don't know if their piggyback controls timing or not but the gains would still be around 10-15whp. More mods more whp. It would all depend on your ability to tune the piggyback, cool your cylinders, and if you got ***** to push things to the limit.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #20  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by gregivq
I don't know if their piggyback controls timing or not but the gains would still be around 10-15whp. More mods more whp. It would all depend on your ability to tune the piggyback, cool your cylinders, and if you got ***** to push things to the limit.
If I'm not mistaken the Pb does control timing as well.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 09:40 AM
  #21  
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^ Im pretty positive it does.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #22  
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no it doesn't. and you won't be able to get the software from rrm. if you want adjustability, go with a safc or emanage. they actually cost less. the only difference between those and the piggy is the amount of time you'll have to spend with them besides the price.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 07:30 AM
  #23  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by blaze_125
I'll have to hookup the Auterra and make a few runs to know for sure.
Before Piggyback: Auterra'ed at -> 125.6hp@5900rpm and 117.7lbs@4800rpm

With PB Without the screw: Auterra'ed at -> 133hp@5700rpm and 127lbs@4800rpm

Last edited by blaze_125; Nov 11, 2005 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 06:59 PM
  #24  
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how's your o2 voltage on the auterra on these runs?
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 07:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by blaze_125
Before Piggyback: Auterra'ed at -> 125.6hp@5900rpm and 117.7lbs@4800rpm

With PB Without the screw: Auterra'ed at -> 133hp@5700rpm and 127lbs@4800rpm
what the hell are u talking about here.
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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 03:27 PM
  #26  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by rhyzin
how's your o2 voltage on the auterra on these runs?
I'll see if I can get you an o2 file tonight.

what the hell are u talking about here.
The big black screw under the maf (originaly cover by silicon)

I'm experiencing something weird I know I have a bad wire connection somewhere(P0102). I usually clear the code when it pops but I've notice I get WAY more power when the cel is on I've never wanted that light to come on so badly now

BTW... I think my bad connection is the wire that needed to be completly cut in half and joined to 2 seperate wires.

Last edited by blaze_125; Nov 13, 2005 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 08:33 AM
  #27  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by rhyzin
how's your o2 voltage on the auterra on these runs?
This graph represent 2nd and 3rd gear. The drop at 34 is the shift point between 2nd and 3rd.
Attached Thumbnails PiggyBack V.1-o2_reading.gif  
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 02:33 PM
  #28  
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Ok guys!!!! As for the R4 software! Lol Good luck getting it !!! I have a copy b/c i worked for a company that used split second alot. Im pretty sure you can buy a copy from split second for like $15 i think. Dont hold me to it but i think you can. As for tuning with the software. lol good luck!!! Its not as simple as you think. Trust me. Plus its a pain b/c everytime you want to make a change to the program you have to turn off the car make a change in the tables, load it into the box, and then restart the car and see the difference.

You could make two different tables, one for 91 and one 94 and all you would have to is load which program you wanted to use.

If you want the software talk to split second!
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 04:37 PM
  #29  
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From: QC
Originally Posted by Go2fast
If you want the software talk to split second!
I tried but the ball keeps going back and forth between companies... that will be adressed a tad later...

I'd like to know what Rhyzin is looking for in the o2 reading I just got
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #30  
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From: QC
Allright... Because I still had the P0102 code coming up, I redid my connection yet once again. I may not be the best at soledering stuff, but I know all the wires have a very connection. Still... P0102

On a side note... I shorten the vaccuum line by about a foot and it seems to have helped alot on the power side of things(might just be my imagination).
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