The piggyback I ordered from hypo74 got lost in the mail... but the one I ordered from another member did get to my place safe and sound... so after install I'm trying to understand the thing a bit better...

If I'm not mistaken, it does not modify the maf reading, it takes it's own reading from map sensor embeded in the box and then sends info to the stock ecu telling it what to do with spark and fuel right? So basically we could keep the maf hooked up but wouldn't need to have it hooked to the intake piping? We'd need to keep it connected just so the ECU doesn't throw a code saying the maf is disconnected?

Anyone tried taking out the big screw under the maf to see if the car would run funny or great?

 

i think that although the piggy alters the signal it still needs a base reading that way it could adapt to different conditions ex: cold weather, rain. Dont know for sure just throwing ideas out.

 

BTW... anyone's got the R4 Software? SplitSecond told me to ask RoadRace for a copy but looks like RRM doesn't want to share

 

The SplitSecond PSC1 box on my Mazdaspeed intercepts the MAF and front O2 sensor readings, alters them in some way, and then send a signal out to the ECU. It uses it's own MAP sensor (connected via vacuum line) to make calculations based on the readings from the stock MAF, stock O2, and the map it is programmed with. All of this leads to the signals being sent to the ECU so the fuel can be added/removed.

I have the R4 software and I don't want to distribute it because my vendor could get in trouble. SplitSecond has stated that the software may be distributed to those who purchase piggyback units from authorized vendors. RRM needs to give it up in my opinion.

 

And it's clearly stated in the email I forwarded to RRM, but still... they won't give it out.

 

sue...
unfair business practices

WADAD

 

Right
Let's forget about the R4 Software for now, and let's talk about the questions in my first post

 

Sorry
couldn't resist the desperation.

I'm not sure about your question but from what Lively is saying you might have to go with a more standalone unit to remove the MAF.

WADAD

 

Well... at least you didn't froget the "s" when typed pratices They've been good to me lately so the R4 software is the only thing p!ss!ng me off.

What about the screw under the maf assy? Air would come in unaccountered for by the maf, but the piggy would see it with the map sensor?

 

i would love to have that r4 software, so i can fix the idle problem myself on the piggy v.2

 

livelyjay is right about how it operates except that ours don't tap into the o2. a negligible difference in operation.

completely unscrewing the screw under the mas may work, but what is important is that the mas still reads air correctly. if air coming through that hole causes turbulence, then you'll have problems. the piggy will be useless if the mas isn't working correctly. you can unscew it enough so that the passage in the mas is flush, but i'm not too sure about completely taking the scew out.

if you want more airflow, you're just going to have to upgrade your mas and/or fuel management.

 

If you are looking to remove the MAF sensor then as an alternative - consider one of our Haltech plug and play units. Direct plug into the stock ecu wiring harness, and comes with a baseline tune, this basically allows you to go to the dyno and tune the car to whatever level you wish. The baseline tune as we do more of them will become more and more sophisticated but woudl still need to be checked on a dyno.

Best of all software is free to play with it as much as you want.

No cutting of wires, just unplug stock ECU and replace with this one. Then when it comes to emmision control testing - replug up the origonal, do your test and then re plug in the haltech one again later.

Valued at $1230.00 AUD$ plus freight, this is a very good alternative option.

 

why yes. yes it is

 

I was under the impression that the V1 piggy just advanced the timing and added more fuel. Hence the need for 91 or higher octane. Could be wrond though.

SO far thats 2 well working units in Canada, mine and your Blaze. And I bought mine used from a guy that said it didnt do anything LOL.

 

Well... if the connections aren't perfect the gains are really negligible... I get code P0102 every once in a while meaning there is a bad connection somewhere... and I can definetly feel it... sometimes the car pulls like freakin crazy and some time it's just the plain old Lancer depending on how good the connection is a that time. I re-soldered all the connections but 2... so I'll have to do that shortly.