I tried to remove mine, but couldn't. How did you get the cover off of yours? I went to speed density anyway, so it really doesn't matter at this point....curious though.

 

just had a small flat head screw driver and preyed it off it was on there pretty good though but with it off it runs just like a 399

 

This is probably a stupid question but here it goes anyways.

Is the metal "honeycomb" thing that is in the middle of all the maf pictures you have posted important?

Does it have anything to do with airflow, etc.?

Mah stories: When I went to change my air filter after buying my car I saw that the honeycomb metal inside the maf had been punctured and it was starting to fall apart. I completely removed all of the metal pieces and shavings to prevent them from entering the engine.

Should I get a new maf with the honeycomb metal in it? or is it just a "screen" of sorts to keep "junk" out of the engine

 

Definitely not just a screen. You’re going to want to invest in a new one.

 

i happen to have a few for sell if you need one

 

I am partial to keeping the honeycomb in there. The filter is what keeps the junk out of the engine, that honeycomb I believe is more for keeping a constant straight path of air going past the sensors located in the maf.

Now that being said some evo owners pushing higher boost levels will pull the honeycomb out for fear of the turbo literally sucking it in. So I guess its a toss up.

 

I am curious because I have been running my car for probably a year without the honeycomb mesh in the maf and it still runs

 

The honeycomb "straightens" the air as it comes in. If it's not there the air swirls around slightly, and lingers on the sensor longer than it should, giving the indication that more air is coming in than actually is. It makes the car run rich at idle pretty much, but not on all cars, depends on your intake setup, with a cone filter it will make more of a difference. I can't even run my 399 because the honeycomb is gone.

 

I have a cone filter attached straight to the maf, basically a custom sri.

The car came like this when is bought it, there is an OBX racing adapter attached to the maf for a cone filter (origonally an ebay, now a nice fujita ).

Also, I believe the code my car gets all the time is a lean code..

 

Some questions with MAF scaling, why is it that the scalings tend to go higher at 8000 through 14000 then drop back down at 16000?

Also what exactly does the smoothing table do?

 

Flow through the maf is the first tables value at super high velocity the maf tube becomes choked and flow decreases thats why you see lower values.

The maf smoothing table isn't a flow table at all its really like a VE table adjusting fuel for the flow rate not load. Since the evo's maf is huge its ability to measure low speed air flow is limited and essentially bad. At this idle range the measurement fuel to maf hz is no longer linear and needs to be adjusted down to compensate for the lack of air actually entering the chamber. You'll usually see low values at the first two maf smoothing spots and then higher to moderate levels later.

The correct scaling for maf smoothing is really percent 128. Adjust your scaling an it will become clear.

 

Can we use the evox maf and if so what are the maf scalings and sizes? is it bolt on just like all the others mantioned? thanks

 

Just use a evo 8/9 maf. Dont make things harder than they need to be.

 

It's quite hard to get an evo 8-9 maf here in quebec, canada! right now im using stock maf and it works pretty well...i was wondering what were the advantages of using an evo maf compare to stock maf before i buy one?

 

Read this sticky man. All the info is in the beginning.