ok so i have a stage 2 cam, and i just switched over to the greddy emanage from the safc. thought it would be awsome. i put the greddy in did some stuff worked ok, not as good as the safc so my bud told me about this shop that would check everything and then dyno the car and tune the greddy. i have the injector and ignition harnesses as well. so i was like good idea and did it. got the car back and they said the ecu is going to be looping because i have not cats. basically it boils down to this. the car idles at 1250 rpms and when in park it sits at 3000 rpms. oh yeah when its slowing down from a high rpm in drive it bounces off of 1000 and goes up to 1500 (it boucnes a lot and pretty fast), making it hard as crap to brake. plus when i do get it stopped its still bounces like that. I AM PISSED. if anyone who knows about the ecu systems in our cars can help me i would appreciate it a lot, cuz right now its almost undrivable.

thanks
alex

edit: they said the car cannot idle below 1000 but i know it can idle just fine at like 600 rpms. is there a setting in the emanage that they changed??

 

they probably messed with the base idle screw and idle rpm screw. sounds like both of them have been backed out a lot.

 

where are these screws at?? i would be happy to screw them back in lol

 

they might/could have. well the only thing i can say is make sure to take it to someone that knows what they are doing. ask around and see wheres the best place to take it. good luck with everything. hopefully someone on here can help.

 

one screw is set from the factory and the other would need an accurate rpm meter and a mitsu diagnostic tool to set the IAC to "base step." i think you can set base step without the mitsu tool by grounding out a pin, but i haven't tried yet myself. the screw set from the factory can be readjusted if messed with, but it's sensitive. these two screws really mess with your idle and are sensitive. as for the emanage, i doubt there's any function in it that can raise your rpm. i think idle rpm is only affected mechanically.

i would double check your cam gear setting and ignition timing. i've read whenever you mess with your cam gear, you have to readjust your ign timing and base timing. base timing is a b*tch cuz i haven't found a way to get the car in that mode without having to use a diagnostic tool. if your idle went up after you got it back from those guys, i'm sure they messed with those idle screws.

i don't see how not having a cat can change driveablility like that. what exactly was their reason why no cat meant needing a higher idle? i can imagine an idle at 1000 rpm only, but not 3000. that's ridiculous. take the car in to someone who has the right equipment. that's probably your best bet if you haven't touched this stuff before.

 

Hopefully Mitsiman will see this but you need to PM him about this problem.

WADAD

 

my car has been idling at 600 when the engine is warm since i bought it so yes it can idle that low...

 

bump, problem hasn't solved itself!

 

in another thread it was brought up that a CEL could not let the emanage work properly... so if your header gave a CEL it could be a combo of that and the shop messing with idle screw.

 

tomm, FRIDAY, i am putting the cat back on and hoping that will help some. just an update, no one appears to be responding to this thread. thats great

 

an update on emanage... apparently it works with cel... just depends which cel... so aslong as it is just an o2 code... it should work.

 

have you checked both your base and actual ignition timing? is your cam-gear set as per RPW instructions? i'd post how to set base idle, but i don't have my camera and i'm not at home.

 

Did you PM Mitsiman and link this thread to it? I know he browses like 4 or 5 forums so he may not always get back swiftly. He's also on a different time zone.

PM him with the link and see if you can get a response.

WADAD

 

cat is back, still have the same idle bouncing problem!! i am about ready to kill this damn car!! honestly!