RamAir update
Aug 18, 2005, 12:14 PM
#16
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the software can be found at auterra.com for free. It's the cable they're charging you for (AND you still have to buy a cable that's serial to USB so you can make it work on your PDA. I had to buy a Belkin cable for $30. Sure, it's saved me hundereds of dollars since, but that's quite the initial outlay).
Aug 18, 2005, 12:27 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Alchemist
It's the cable they're charging you for
I wonder is any obd interface cable would work with their software???? You think this cable would be compatible with the Auterra system?http://cgi.ebay.com/OBD2-KKL-Interfa...QQcmdZViewItem
It's that freakin square piece I'd need since all the other cable are easy to find. Or is that connector only a regular connector that can be baught in any computer store?
Allright... well according to a wevsite I just visited, it looks like multiple cables will be compatible with mutliple software. So I'm just about to order my obd interface cable. Now I'll have to hunt down another cable for my Palm
I imght already have it anyway 
Last edited by blaze_125; Aug 18, 2005 at 12:54 PM.
Aug 18, 2005, 09:36 PM
#18
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road test as promised.
Tonight 9PM pre-install
@ 25MPH IAT 104, Coolant temp 185
@30 MPH IAT 103-104 coolant temp 185
Tonight 9:30 post install. The ram is just a piece of 4" dryer vent that's butted up against the filter and the other end is hanging in front of the vent- I used some copper wire to hang it from the headlight bracket.
@25 MPH IAT 77F coolant temp 183
@30MPH IAT 75F coolant temp 183
So we have a drop of about 30 degrees. Last time I checked, 5degrees is worth about 1 HP. So I just gained 6HP at standard street speeds. Awesome. I didn't test freeway speeds, but I'm thinking the temps will go down a few more degrees (but there's gotta be a limit).
Tonight 9PM pre-install
@ 25MPH IAT 104, Coolant temp 185
@30 MPH IAT 103-104 coolant temp 185
Tonight 9:30 post install. The ram is just a piece of 4" dryer vent that's butted up against the filter and the other end is hanging in front of the vent- I used some copper wire to hang it from the headlight bracket.
@25 MPH IAT 77F coolant temp 183
@30MPH IAT 75F coolant temp 183
So we have a drop of about 30 degrees. Last time I checked, 5degrees is worth about 1 HP. So I just gained 6HP at standard street speeds. Awesome. I didn't test freeway speeds, but I'm thinking the temps will go down a few more degrees (but there's gotta be a limit).
Aug 19, 2005, 07:43 AM
#24
Originally Posted by datdjrobp
well if we just want colder air, reroute the A/C duct so it points at your intake instead of your face. 
Loose 10 to 15 hp to gain 6-7... and you're still 7-8 hp away from your original figure
Aug 19, 2005, 07:52 AM
#26
Originally Posted by datdjrobp
you and your negativity.
if i can get 6hp from some pvc pipe, we need to get one of these man-a-factured f'real!
if i can get 6hp from some pvc pipe, we need to get one of these man-a-factured f'real!
Once I know what setup provides the best gain I'll see if I can have it done in mandrel bent pipes.
Aug 19, 2005, 08:41 AM
#27
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Like I said, I just used a piece of dryer vent. It points to the side of the filter that's closer to the engine and get its air from the front duct. There's no need to manufacture anything 
Here's what you'll need to copy mine. About 30" of wire to hang the dryer duct in front of the driver's-side fender duct (the wire loops through the headlight bracket and then loops around the dryer hose), some screening (I used the stuff from my window screen repair project), some duct tape (duh 
) and you might need a couple of the big zip ties to ziptie the duct to something not-hot in the engine bay so the air shoots at the filter (again, mine is butted right up against the filter).
tada!
Just the duct is about $8. That's pretty cheap HP
Here's what you'll need to copy mine. About 30" of wire to hang the dryer duct in front of the driver's-side fender duct (the wire loops through the headlight bracket and then loops around the dryer hose), some screening (I used the stuff from my window screen repair project), some duct tape (duh ) and you might need a couple of the big zip ties to ziptie the duct to something not-hot in the engine bay so the air shoots at the filter (again, mine is butted right up against the filter).tada!
Just the duct is about $8. That's pretty cheap HP
Last edited by Alchemist; Aug 19, 2005 at 09:00 AM.
Aug 19, 2005, 08:44 AM
#28
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here's a pic from the first time I did this:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...chmentid=33113
The duct has a hole in it and the bracket that I made to hold up the filter is also holding the ducting (yes the bracket just holds the filter up, there's no room for it to move side-to-side )
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...chmentid=33113
The duct has a hole in it and the bracket that I made to hold up the filter is also holding the ducting (yes the bracket just holds the filter up, there's no room for it to move side-to-side
)
Last edited by Alchemist; Aug 19, 2005 at 08:47 AM.
Aug 19, 2005, 08:58 AM
#29
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Blaze: you still have to do the same testing (so same speeds 30 and 35MPH) so we can see which method is more effective- ramming through the front of a pod, on the side of any round/oval filter, or neither and they work the same.
Aug 19, 2005, 09:33 AM
#30
Originally Posted by Alchemist
Blaze: you still have to do the same testing (so same speeds 30 and 35MPH) so we can see which method is more effective- ramming through the front of a pod, on the side of any round/oval filter, or neither and they work the same.
My next step is to try something like this:
