Two problems with the pass side ducting:
1) there's so much stuff under there! Window washer fluid reservoir, all the AC, water pump, PS pump belts and such. I can't see how you'd get a 3 or 4" duct up through it. If you tried to go across the front bumper, that's too many hard bends for it to be effective.
2) even if you did, you'd be collecting the hot air over the header and/or valve cover. I think it would be a lot of work for something that's not going to work.

 

how did these projects turn out? Was the piping on the driver's side to the side of the filter effective? I would love some pickup on the highway.

 

My sig has your name written all over it Anyway, last summer I scraped on someone's driveway REAL bad and it knocked my ram loose. All the way home it felt like the car was struggling. I fixed it that night and everything was back to what I'm used to.

 

Yeah, I discovered that upon further looking under my car(took me some time cause it was friggin cold recently). I wonder if you could get just any smaller washer fluid reservoir and do a relocation, just for the sake of not having that gigantic one there(I've never seen one so big for washer fluid).
Anywho, having an automatic, I've found that fitting 3" piping anywhere from the bumper to the filter will be really hard until I get my battery relocated. So this whole plan is on indefinate hold until then. My new plan(once the battery is in the trunk), will be to run the piping on the driver's side only, and eventually re-install the stock air scoop thing. I need to search and see if a ralliart or evo scoop would fit, going for maximum airflow.

 

I think you can turn the battery 90deg to get the piping up there. No need to move the battery to the trunk.

 

hmm... I'll have to try that, thanks for the info, though it'll be fun figuring out where to hook the tie-down. One last question, do you think it'd be better to run a valve cover breather with this? Or does the vacuum hose become more effective due to increased airflow? I don't know much of anything about how vacuum works in an engine, so I figured I'd see if there were any ideas there.

 

sorry i've been on here long enough to know better. that's awesome that it has been working well, but i'm sorry about the scraping. Did you put the tube right flush against the filter material, or did you leave some space? This won't pose any problems in down pours right? I'm quite intrigued by this. thanks for the info thusfar

 

from what I've learned so far, the new piping won't suck in air, but air will be forced through it, and it's too vertical to allow water to reach the filter.

 

You will want to poke a couple of holes in the bottom of the "U" bend as rain water will collect and can be heavy enough to pull the ducting off. If nothing else it's a little weird to watch a stream of water ejecting from your front bumper if you have to stop suddenly I used an icepick to make the holes, they don't have to be very large.

 

I did something similar to this with my OZ. I kept the stock air box and put in a K&N panel filter. Then I got some 3" dryer ducting from the local hardware store and put it over the hole in the air box (fit perfectly) and ran it down where a CAI would end up. This way it has the high flow of the filter and the ability to only pull cold air from the bumper instead of hot air from the engine bay. I also turned the end of the ducting facing back so no rain can get blown into it.

 

Beautiful day today, probably gonna finally finish this up. I've decided rather than trying to run ducting from the passenger side as well I'll just start hunting for a factory air scoop, and get some added air with that. I'm still gonna try the driver side ducting, and hopefully it'll work out well with the battery rotated, once I figure out how to tie down the battery when it's sideways to it's normal mounting. I'll be sure to put some rain drain holes in the duct before I install it. I'll post back in a bit once I've got this all figured out. It seems like this has proven more difficult than it should have...

EDIT: Ok, tried rotating the battery 90 degrees, no go. There's no real room freed up no matter how much I try to reposition the stock battery on the tray. I checked and found that a 25-R5N battery will work for the lancer, and it's much smaller(not a mini-battery quite, but smaller). I think that'd do the job, I'm guessing that maybe the battery rotation plan was on a manual? That or not all lancers came with a monster 35-N battery stock.

 

bang for buck, buying a new battery to run a pipe isn't cost effective.

If you run your pipe from the passenger side, you'll be working hard for nothing. The piping is going to be too long, there will be too many bends, and the piping will get hotter.

I ran 3" pvc pipe from the lower pocket to the air filter. I don't see why you couldn't on your ride.

 

Move the battery to the trunk, if you ask me. Better weight distribution, and it's safer from the elements (and out of the way). Kill two birds...

 

Well, I was thinking at the time that a smaller battery might prove useful later. I tried a lot of different positions but couldn't find any route to fit the 3" dryer ducting from the bumper to the filter, the blasted auto tranny makes it hard to see where there is any extra room. For the time being, I've bought a Ralliart air scoop(the ones that come stock on Lancer Ralliarts), which will bring in a little more air. Maybe Wednsday I'll be able to get a better look while I try to readjust my front bumper, which got pushed in from a small accident.

I've noticed what you've all been saying about the passenger side once I looked under the car, glad I didn't buy ducting for that, cause there's no way I could get any gains from it.
I probably won't do the trunnk relocation just yet, I just bought wheels and have to stick back a bit to put decent tires on them, not to mention get them painted. Machined Alloy on a Silver car? No thanks.

EDIT: I just realized that both of your pics have the piping right where my A/T fluid dipstick is, I might be able to squeeze it through there, if I clip off one of the unused wire clips that juts out from the fan. It'll be kinda annoying to check/change A/T fluid then....

 

Ignore my comment. I had no clue you were running A/T. That tranny is a biotch to everyone trying to route piping down that path. You may want to look at what people did to get their cold air intake to work with A/T.