RamAir update
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 250
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From: Boonies
ok after reading this I said to myself... a f..k-it.... lets try it....
I think mine's a lilltle big I had to pinch my hose so it would fit beside the battery...
did u do that to urs alchemist???
plus after driving around my intake is hardly cold...
but I do fill a better pick up once I get moving and yes especially the highway...
so you think if I boxed the filter in that would make a difference?
I think mine's a lilltle big I had to pinch my hose so it would fit beside the battery...
did u do that to urs alchemist???
plus after driving around my intake is hardly cold...
but I do fill a better pick up once I get moving and yes especially the highway...
so you think if I boxed the filter in that would make a difference?
I only had to squeeze it between the battery and one of the coolant hardlines on the engine- and just a little squeeze. The link above shows what mine looks like. Let's see a pic of yours.
Blaze is the one who said his intake was cold- I said the charge was colder
Blaze is the one who said his intake was cold- I said the charge was colder
Originally Posted by Alchemist
Blaze is the one who said his intake was cold- I said the charge was colder
If I could get a !@#$%\# scan tool to work I'd be able to put numbers on my words 
Last edited by blaze_125; Aug 25, 2005 at 06:58 AM.
if you just added a cold air intake...is it the same thing? I know with a manual tranny a cold air intake is a lot more feasible but is this mod for automatics or what exactly?
I did this because I don't want a CAI- can't speak for Blaze 
. I routinely get rain in the winter that goes over the bumper of the car and I don't want to have to guess when I get to have CAI and when I have to be SRI. Plus the SRI is easier to fab. Given the way most CAIs are arranged, this -might- even have colder air coming into the MAS.
. I routinely get rain in the winter that goes over the bumper of the car and I don't want to have to guess when I get to have CAI and when I have to be SRI. Plus the SRI is easier to fab. Given the way most CAIs are arranged, this -might- even have colder air coming into the MAS.
Originally Posted by sadude
if you just added a cold air intake...is it the same thing? I know with a manual tranny a cold air intake is a lot more feasible but is this mod for automatics or what exactly?
Lol... I'm a cheap bastard, I like to make and build stuff, I'm a cheap bastard and I like having different stuff on my ride. But what I really really like is to make my stuff my-self. I happened to read a few websites a while ago concerning Ramairs and stuff. I slept on that for a few weeks and finnaly decided I would give it a try.
What attracted me the most is this definition of a RamAir system from RamAirSS.com:
Originally Posted by RamAirSS
This is a question we hear a lot. The answer is really quite simple and founded in science. A motor is really an air pump. The idea is to get as much air in and out as quickly as possible. However, stock motors actually do not take in as much air as their displacement indicates. This air comes into the motor under vacuum and is assisted by the weight of the atmosphere pressing down (barometric pressure). This process is not very efficient. This ratio of actual air entering the motor versus the actual displacement of the motor is called volumetric efficiency V.E.
A typical stock fuel injected motor is rated at about 85 % V.E. This means that out of the 350 cubic inches of air your motor could theoretically take in, only 85 % of that volume enters the cylinders. This translates to about 294 cubic inches of air. Some all out race motors can reach near 100 % V.E. and supercharged or turbocharged motors actually exceed 100 % by forcing the air into the motor. Not everyone can afford a supercharger but there is definitely room for improvement for the stock motor if you make it easier for it to get air into the motor for combustion. This is what ram air does.
As speed increases, the air entering through the sealed ram air kit actually becomes pressurized. This positive pressure helps to fill the cylinders more efficiency and raises the V.E. of the motor. As the V.E. increases, the motor becomes more efficient and produces more HP and also gives you better fuel economy. You will also find your throttle response dramatically improved. The motor is working less hard to fill the cylinder and is greatly assisted by the high pressure air. The faster your go, the greater the pressurization effect. This is similar to a mild supercharging effect.
The second benefit of a ram air system is that is supplies the engine with colder air than what it would normally breathe. Colder is more dense and contains more oxygen for the combustion process. For every 10 degree drop in intake air temperature, you can expect 1 % more HP. The ram air kit supplies cold air from the bottom of the car which is forced into the sealed air canister. Unlike the stock system, the ram air kit does not let the motor breathe superheated air from the engine bay. Additionally, the computer detects this colder air and adds additional ignition timing. This makes more HP!
A typical stock fuel injected motor is rated at about 85 % V.E. This means that out of the 350 cubic inches of air your motor could theoretically take in, only 85 % of that volume enters the cylinders. This translates to about 294 cubic inches of air. Some all out race motors can reach near 100 % V.E. and supercharged or turbocharged motors actually exceed 100 % by forcing the air into the motor. Not everyone can afford a supercharger but there is definitely room for improvement for the stock motor if you make it easier for it to get air into the motor for combustion. This is what ram air does.
As speed increases, the air entering through the sealed ram air kit actually becomes pressurized. This positive pressure helps to fill the cylinders more efficiency and raises the V.E. of the motor. As the V.E. increases, the motor becomes more efficient and produces more HP and also gives you better fuel economy. You will also find your throttle response dramatically improved. The motor is working less hard to fill the cylinder and is greatly assisted by the high pressure air. The faster your go, the greater the pressurization effect. This is similar to a mild supercharging effect.
The second benefit of a ram air system is that is supplies the engine with colder air than what it would normally breathe. Colder is more dense and contains more oxygen for the combustion process. For every 10 degree drop in intake air temperature, you can expect 1 % more HP. The ram air kit supplies cold air from the bottom of the car which is forced into the sealed air canister. Unlike the stock system, the ram air kit does not let the motor breathe superheated air from the engine bay. Additionally, the computer detects this colder air and adds additional ignition timing. This makes more HP!
well when i get my digimoto... i can give you the IAT for the cold air... and we can see how much these rams are able to drop the temp... ill try and run about the same temp as you guys did
Didn't make any records of IAT of MAF yet but got 2 dyno sheets done So it give you an idea... In 3rd gear @ Rev cutoff the actual speed is 85mph. These 2 dyno sheets were done only with the ramair hooked up. None have been made yet with an inactive ramair.
Anyhow... here are the 2 sheets I could do tonight. My current mods can be seen in my signature. Now it's 2:30am so I'm going to bed
So it give you an idea... In 3rd gear @ Rev cutoff the actual speed is 85mph. These 2 dyno sheets were done only with the ramair hooked up. None have been made yet with an inactive ramair.Anyhow... here are the 2 sheets I could do tonight. My current mods can be seen in my signature. Now it's 2:30am so I'm going to bed
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Hmm... I wonder if it'd be effective to run air from both vents instead of just one? I've got almost everything I need to do this(I'm going a bit elaborate with it).
Here is my plan:
@ Bumper vents, add rectagular to cylindrical dryer-vent ducting. From there angle 3-4"(depending on what fits) ducting to a Y-collector(Autozone sells a 3 inch one), from there use 3" ducting to "X-stream"(what K&N calls the filtered front hole on their cone filters) style opening in my filter. Thanks to some of those Spectre brand intake parts from Autozone, I won't have to use duct tape. I know my plan is more expensive, but I'm going for something kinda permanent, and will probably replace the dryer ducting with hard pipe eventually, assuming I don't need it's flexibility to make this work. After I buy an Evo VII front end conversion, I also plan to build a cold air box of sorts from sheetmetal, but I wanna be sure everything fits well first.
My biggest problem will be how to attach the poor-man's velocity stacks(the rectangle to cylindrical adaptors) to the front bumper, so they don't rattle around/get pulled down by their own weight. The Y-collector is plastic, and thereby not a weight issue, and should be able to simply hang there since the ducting will be hose-clamped to it.
The guy at Pepboys told me that using any 3" would pretty much kill the gains of this mod, but I don't entirely trust that. Correct me if I'm wrong, but were you using 3" Blaze?
Wow, just realized that this thread is over 2 years old, lol. I doubt anyone even remembers this.
Here is my plan:
@ Bumper vents, add rectagular to cylindrical dryer-vent ducting. From there angle 3-4"(depending on what fits) ducting to a Y-collector(Autozone sells a 3 inch one), from there use 3" ducting to "X-stream"(what K&N calls the filtered front hole on their cone filters) style opening in my filter. Thanks to some of those Spectre brand intake parts from Autozone, I won't have to use duct tape. I know my plan is more expensive, but I'm going for something kinda permanent, and will probably replace the dryer ducting with hard pipe eventually, assuming I don't need it's flexibility to make this work. After I buy an Evo VII front end conversion, I also plan to build a cold air box of sorts from sheetmetal, but I wanna be sure everything fits well first.
My biggest problem will be how to attach the poor-man's velocity stacks(the rectangle to cylindrical adaptors) to the front bumper, so they don't rattle around/get pulled down by their own weight. The Y-collector is plastic, and thereby not a weight issue, and should be able to simply hang there since the ducting will be hose-clamped to it.
The guy at Pepboys told me that using any 3" would pretty much kill the gains of this mod, but I don't entirely trust that. Correct me if I'm wrong, but were you using 3" Blaze?
Wow, just realized that this thread is over 2 years old, lol. I doubt anyone even remembers this.