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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #61  
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From: San Antonio
Originally Posted by mifesto
just theory, after a long drive you have high engine temps but also alot of airflow. when coming to a stop without really a 'cooling' run, your engine temp skyrocket from lack of airflow until radiator fan kicks in and drops it back down and idle drops from voltage drain
nope it isnt that because on my radar it has a volt meter for the car and never showed this data
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #62  
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From: Fort Myers, Florida
Originally Posted by sa town ridah
mine was having it in all gears but went away when i cleaned MAF sensor and spark wire connections hasn't came back!!
than that was obviously a different issue. I have had my car stall out before from intake problems. but this is ONLY when i'm in park, and it doesn't stall out. the RPM's just dip a little then go back to normal right away
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:26 PM
  #63  
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You CAN do the tranny flush yourself! It doesn't flush it all entirely at once, but at least you'll start to cycle new fluid through the tranny.

You can (using gravity) drain about 4 qts of fluid out at one time. Then just replace with new fluid through the tranny level dip stick. Just do this 4-qt cycle 3 times (I did it at the usual 3k oil change schedule) and you & your tranny will thank me! LOL

BTW, use the OEM Mitsu ATF fluid! It's about $4.xx per quart over here; so for around $50 you can do it yourself and know it was done right w/o force-suction or anything that could "possibily" damage the tranny/filter.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:32 PM
  #64  
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From: Fort Myers, Florida
Originally Posted by SLVROZ_03
You CAN do the tranny flush yourself! It doesn't flush it all entirely at once, but at least you'll start to cycle new fluid through the tranny.

You can (using gravity) drain about 4 qts of fluid out at one time. Then just replace with new fluid through the tranny level dip stick. Just do this 4-qt cycle 3 times (I did it at the usual 3k oil change schedule) and you & your tranny will thank me! LOL

BTW, use the OEM Mitsu ATF fluid! It's about $4.xx per quart over here; so for around $50 you can do it yourself and know it was done right w/o force-suction or anything that could "possibily" damage the tranny/filter.
i may do that. i'm due for an oil change anyway. how difficult is it to drain the tranny?

also what about using transmission fluid additives for high mileage cars?
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #65  
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From: San Antonio
Originally Posted by crypto
i may do that. i'm due for an oil change anyway. how difficult is it to drain the tranny?

also what about using transmission fluid additives for high mileage cars?
yea i wanted to use tranny sea foam b4 i take it for a flush!! i wonder if it would damage it??
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #66  
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check the pcv valve it can do the symptons your are describing
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:48 PM
  #67  
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From: Fort Myers, Florida
just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 01:42 PM
  #68  
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i had the exact problem, i still do usually when i pull of the negative battery terminal and reset the car, what i figred it was that the new pully is lighter then the stock so this creates an unbalance which is why it idles higher then lower, my theory is that the ecu is trying to get used to it so it's testing the diffrence, then it goes away after a couple miles lets say 10 miles + once the ecu knows whats new. if yo've done that and still have the ame problem then it might be how it was installed because it may have damaged soething so in that case take it to a mechanic, good luck with it
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #69  
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From: Princeton, NJ
this has nothing to do w/ ur tranny since ur idling
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 03:55 PM
  #70  
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From: Greenville, SC
Originally Posted by crypto
i may do that. i'm due for an oil change anyway. how difficult is it to drain the tranny?

also what about using transmission fluid additives for high mileage cars?
Honestly, easier than replacing the oil filter! LOL Just crank on that 17mm? drain bolt and let it all out. Measure it, but it should be around 4 qts. BTW, Mitsu did provide us with a magnetic drain plug! How JDM of them! LOL

Nah, save that for the manual trans. No one really has any data on using additives on our autos, so let it be known that OEM fluid is king...for now.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 04:57 PM
  #71  
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From: Fort Myers, Florida
Originally Posted by SLVROZ_03
Honestly, easier than replacing the oil filter! LOL Just crank on that 17mm? drain bolt and let it all out. Measure it, but it should be around 4 qts. BTW, Mitsu did provide us with a magnetic drain plug! How JDM of them! LOL

Nah, save that for the manual trans. No one really has any data on using additives on our autos, so let it be known that OEM fluid is king...for now.
jdm plug ftw!!! lol

i will have a bash at it on my next oil change. Thanks for the help mate
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #72  
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From: Greenville, SC
No prob! While at the dealership getting the tranny fluid, pick up new tranny drain plug washers and oil drain plug washers. Not that I've ever got any myself, they're just good to replace after a while! LOL

Actually, I'm think'n the bolt is a 19mm cuz I had to use the crescent wrench on it...just so you know. It wasn't a monster to get off either.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 01:44 AM
  #73  
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another thing about "jiggling" your EGR valve.... You don't go and jiggle the entire valve. Try reach for the rubber valve part of it and try pushing it in. engine should studder like hell when doing so. Another way is to apply vacumm to the egr vacumn line.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:28 AM
  #74  
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ok so i used some Auto Tranny seafoam last night. And it seemed to help...........for a little while.

I poured some in, drove around going through all the gears, then when i got home and put it in park, it was fine. But then this morning i drove around, got to work, put it in park, and it did the usual rev dip.

So next week when i get back from vacation i am gonna start the transmission flush when i do my oil change.

Also, just as a side note, that seafoam stuff seemed to help out some, i was hanging in gear a lot, and now it has gone away. Pretty decent product in my opinion

Originally Posted by sykou
another thing about "jiggling" your EGR valve.... You don't go and jiggle the entire valve. Try reach for the rubber valve part of it and try pushing it in. engine should studder like hell when doing so. Another way is to apply vacumm to the egr vacumn line.
where is this by the way, i looked around, but i have no idea what i'm looking for. got a pic?
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #75  
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ok so i pulled off my EGR valve, and it was disgusting. it looked like someone had stuffed it full of mud.
So i got some throttle body cleaner and sprayed inside of it, used almost an entire can, until brown liquid stopped pouring out.
Then i sprayed some into the vacuum hose bit, then shook it around, i good hear the liquid sloshing around inside, but none leaking out, so i figure that means the valve is still good.

Anyway, after reinstalling it and driving around, i put the car in park.............idle is back to normal. In fact after about 1/2 an hour of driving my car feels a lot healthier, and the idle is a lot smoother in general and doesn't stutter nearly as much.

So it seems the problem wasn't the tranny (i was wrong. ) so i suggest all you guys give your EGR valve a good cleaning.
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