Driving home on the highway, I guess I didn't notice the temp gauge going up until it was already past the top and then like not even a few seconds later as I am moving to the shoulder I see white smoke coming out from under the hood. Before I could stop the car, he car turned off and I coasted to a stop on the shoulder. I popped the hood and i see coolant sprayed everywhere and smoke coming from under the head.

I waited awhile, put water in it and find out my radiator is blown as it leaked out the bottom

Tried starting the car, barely turns over so I had to get it towed. Tried it later on that night and no luck on starting at all, it sounds very weak but i know its not battery as my battery is new.

I got everything pulled apart now and I want to show the pics to you guys so that i can get some opinions before I find a machine shop. BTW, I did do a compression test and got like no psi on any cylinder. Let me know if you need to see anything else, i know a lot of its dirt but the coolant on the cylinder is trouble

 

Alright, got the head back from the machine shop....had to resurface and do a valve job it was warped that bad. Lower engine looks good.

Put it all back together and went for a start, i swear it started but then just died. i tried it again and i see fuel spraying. i blew 2 injector gaskets. Pulled the rail and swapped them out, hooked everything back and now it won't start.

I don't see any check engine light, its turning over and no fuel leak but could i have flooded it? Is that possible and how long will it take to evaporate? i waited like 5 mins and tried again and then tried again.

I am going to check fuses and relays in the morning but any other suggestions? I did do the timing while i was at it but i know my timing is ok from the sound, i didn't change the crank sensor but i know its plugged in.

it turns over good and i can hear it missing (i think) but it just won't catch

Any ideas guys, she has been sitting for like 3 weeks and I need to get her running

 

Alright, still no start so I tried compression test

1 = 165
2 = 105
3 = 25
4 = 60

then i did a wet compression

1 = 205
2 = 135
3 = 30
4 = 90

Knowing that the head is in top knick and has been pressure tested on the bench by machine shop, i think this means the rings. Do I need to look at the pistons or crank as well or is it just the rings?

 

Ouch yea those are some pretty bad numbers, hope you figure it out

 

Thanks, quick question, my car is an auto, can i take the engine out by itself or does the tranny have to come with?

 

Your compression numbers mean the engine is toasted, ask me how I know Sorry to tell you that man, your crank wont necessarily be bad btw... If you rebuild the bottom end make sure the crank is checked just to be sure while its all ripped apart.

 

At least its good to hear, what happened in your case?

rings are not expensive...anything to gain by swapping out the pistons or reason to suspect they got damaged in the overheating?

 

Ok, based on my research thus far, here is what I think I will need.

- Connecting rod bearings
- Crankshaft bearings
- rear main seal
- oil pan gasket
- piston rings

I talked to my machine shop earlier today, they will charge between $500-600 for the short block rebuild but I can save up-to $300 if I do the dis-assembly and reassembly. So long as my pistons and crank are ok, I should be ok :-).

I feel comfortable about disassembly but not sure about reassembly....any thoughts on this aspect?

 

Thoughts? Just get a completely different engine with potentially lower miles out of a junk yard. Ours are about $200. Quickest down time, minimal labor, no worrying about torque specs and if this or that's right. Swap on your rebuilt head.

Edit:K.A.M. Auto Salvage USA-WI(Arkdale) Request_Quote 1-866-564-2244 / 1-608-564-2244 Request_Insurance_Quote

Apparently they have an engine with 87k for $150 160 miles from the 60007 zip code.

 

Let me see if I can find something closer, so far the cheapest engines are like 250 miles one way from my place

I found something for $400, just wondering how I know if it works or not

 

Use carpart.com

Usually if you buy an engine that has already been pulled it will have some kind of warranty.

 

I found an engine not too far away for $350 from a 2003 ES (70K miles) delivered for free. Bought an engine lift as well and should be pulling it tonight.

I have removed all electrical, starter, alternator, PS pump, radiator and the upper engine mount. I have started loosening the tranny bolts and got the lower exhaust manifold bolts off.

I will remove the hood and just pull it out...anything I need to do or should I be good?

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...estions-2.html

Based on post #29, I have to angle the engine to get it out. My car is an auto...how much stuff is attached to the flywheel that is bolted to the engine?

I guess I am trying to figure out how much of an angle I need to put the engine to get it out...I am using a cherry picker lift but with no level just a chain.

I'll give it another whirl....wish me luck

 

For an auto tranny...does the torque converter come out with the engine?

 

For those of you who are still tuned in, I figured out that the torque converter is indeed bolted to the flex plate/drive plate/flywheel via 4 17mm bolts

I removed the L-shaped access panel held on by 2 x 10 mm bolts and the rest was pretty straight forward.

I then said why not lets see if the engine comes out now and low and behold it came out. I left the crank pulley on and it pretty much lifted straight out. I think the oil filter just barely edged by and i had to steady it to keep the intake manifold from hitting the back.

Now just gotta swap over the exhaust manifold and put the new engine in tomorrow.

I am hoping to hear this old girl purr once again....fingers crossed