klaysta: Saw the pic - sorry to hear about the MOSFET lead breaking off. Don't try to solder it back on, it will just come off again - there is not enough surface area to solder it to...

 

SOME TIPS FOR SOLDERING:

Get some acid paste flux and put it on the leads of each component you are soldering. Then use the iron to heat up the paste. It will sizzle and clean the leads. Soldering without acid paste is kind of useless...

 

TIPS FOR INSULATING LEADS:

Get some shrink tubing and slip it onto the leads before you solder. Then when the solder joint is complete, slip it over the soldered joint and heat gently with a hair dryer or lighter. If you don't have access to shrink tubing, use some good electrical tape and make sure you insulate all leads from each other - you DONT want a SHORT!

 

MODIFIED CIRCUIT (Thanks for the original diagram Blu_lite):

 

Basically, this modified diagram came through experimentation and offers the following advantages:

1) The diode allows the cap to drain quickly
2) Because of the quick drain, you can now use a variety of resistor values - I used 2 x 47k resistors, but you can use 2 x 20k or 2 x 100k and it should work fine

 

For some unknown reason, I used to have the same problem as some other members where one side would come on and the other wouldn't, but after adding this diode configuration, I have not had a problem since. I think it was something to do with a "slight" flicker as the HID's started up. But now with the diode in place, switching is much quicker and the ballasts don't trip....

 

Oh yeah, for the diode, you can use most common types such as 1N4004. Just make sure of the polarity - the stripe on the diode corresponds to the stripe in the diagram above.

 

Responding below to some PM's I received on this thread so everyone can benefit:

 

mb978n: I didn't go with the Mobile HID kit. I went with a local vendor. I have actually used 3 different kits - the original was with magnetic ballasts (the big ones), the other 2 kits were with Digital Slim ballasts. I like the slim ballasts better since they are (a) smaller (b) better color temperature (c) more even power and color

 

Simmm: You used a 3000uF Cap and no Relay harness, that is why it is flickering still. You CANNOT use option 1 without a relay harness. Well, that is not entirely true, you can, but you need a much bigger Cap. I actually tried this and I used a 35,000uF Cap at 60V without a relay harness and it worked well. Mind you, these caps are pretty large (about 2" diameter and 3" tall). For anything less than 35,000uF you need a relay harness...

 

The day time running lights on the Lancers should be the same as the 09 Ralliarts right? Man this looks like a pain to wire up the HIDs.....

 

I thought the Ralliart's came with HID's?

 

no not the base model....and that's what I got...no Recaro's no HIDs....

 

heres my idea, you know the aligator clips the clips that u can put on and splice into a wire without having to cut it? I am thinking why not just used this and slice into the parking blubs and then just run the wire back to the lowbeam wire and slice into that. get what im saying here would this work?

 

i still have a couple of adapters.....
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=358189