Hey, i know there have been a few(well alot) of posts about the oil light flickering on and off at low rpm's. Mine started like that but now its gotten worse.

Seems like other posts its all just the oil pressure switch so im going to look into that as soon as i get a nice day and can get under the car.

Here is the difference.
Now when my car is low rpm the light is off at first, as the engine warms up it comes on. I noticed now also that even cruising down the highway at any speed under 53 (its a two lane section right before a town) lol, the oil light is solid red.

Still think its oil pressure switch or something else?
Any help appreciated.

 

what kind of oil you run? are you low on oil at all? start the car and take your oil cap off and see if the oil is circulating in it. the reason the oil pressure light would come on more so after warm up is because the viscosity of the oil changes and thins out. when my car starts for the 1st time on a cold start. I'm pushing 40-60psi at idle. now when my car warms up to running temp i drop down to around 10psi at idle. now i also have the sending unit facing up in a "T" for my oil feed to my turbo. so that could also play a role to why it drops down that low. but a little spike of the gas and my car jumps up to 60psi. your oil pump is driven by the crank so the higher the rpm the more pressure you're going to get. if you're using synthetic oil, the viscosity is also different than regular motor oil. your best bet would be to get a oil pressure gauge and see exactly what it's doing. a lot cheaper and easier to do than an oil pump. i wouldn't trust the light but also don't ignore the light.

 

Could just be low on oil

 

I checked the oil, level is fine. Also i did take the cap off and watched it run for a minute. all seems well. I get my oil changed at a gandrud auto place in Green Bay, WI. i believe they use whats recommended in the book (not sure what that is off the top of my head)

I have no turbo or anything extra in the car, not by preference though.
Is the gauge your talking about different from the sensor on the engine?

 

My idle oil pressure is about 15psi when it's warm, i don't think you have any problems there...

For the OP, is the oil level on the high end of the stick? maybe there's a blockage, or some sludge in there...change the oil pressure switch and see what happens, they're like 10 bucks

 

About a year ago i realized that at random points my oil light would flicker for a while - sometimes staying red and other times it wouldnt come on at all. I bought a replacement oil sensor and had the guy at the shop replace it when i took it in for an oil change and the light has never come back on. I say give the sensor a try, i got it for less than 10 bucks and its a crappy piece anyway so itll probably crap out sooner or later.

Hope you figure it out bro

 

Oil level is a little higher than mid stick. I was thinking that there my be sludge as well, but getting the oil+filter changed every 4k miles there shouldnt be any in there... Think ill go over to autozone and pick a sensor up one day coming up.
I believe its a simple fix, no screw the old one disconnect the wire and then install new one.

 

Did a search quick before i head over there.... Is this what im looking for?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=185103_0_0_

 

this is what you want


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...123836_0_8537_

 

Says it does not fit, seems these would be universal though?

 

that listing i showed you was for a 2003 lancer. it should fit your car. as far as universal goes, it depends on the size of the thread it has. the listing you showed was actually for an electric fuel pump so it stops pumping when the engine is off in-case of an accident

 

an OEM replacement for mitsubishi should have 1/8 BSPT thread, where as some aftermarket "universal" units are 1/8 NPT thread, these threads ARE NOT interchangeable...some people say they are or "it will be fine", but i assure you they are not compatible...

even still and OEM mitsubishi switch is only $17

the one 02modlanceroz posted seems to be correct, 1/8 X 28 ISO Tapered is appearantly interchangeable with BSPT, the key is the thread pitch, and the fact that it's tapered...

yeah pretty much, it's kind of a pain in the ***, i like to use blue loc-tite thread sealer, don't use the red kind, LOL!

 

cranswick is right. no NPT thread will work. NPT stands for national pipe thread. even though it is tapered. the pitch is different, it only has 27 threads per inch on a 1/8 thread. where your BSPT (British standard pipe thread) has 28 threads per inch on a 1/8 thread. that would be like trying to put a 3/8-16 bolt in a 10mm x 1.5 tapped hole.

 

If your light is flashing it means your seeing less then 4psi of pressure if i recall correct. I would get a flash when my idle sucked when first started tuning injectors for turbo but hasn't since. I would also suggest getting a new sensor and if it still happens id figure it out sooner then later

 

Thanks for the help guys. Good info for sure. Ill let you know how it goes when i get it done!