bmann_420

So I had a head gasket issue in my old engine, replaced it and made it about 30k miles since I diddnt resurface anything. So I bought an 06 4g94 from a junk yard for $450 with 90k miles on it. Had to swap the intake manifold and fuel rails but all went pretty well. So everything is in and now when I try and start it, it will not even trigger the starter at all. If you have HID's with ballasts you will be familiar with the buzzing sound they can make when they initiate, and this is similar. But its louder right when I turn the key half way. When I turn it all the way to start, absolutely nothing.

I checked my grounds, checked the bolts on the alternator, starter, and other positive wires. Checked some fuses, but doesnt make sense to me. I'm going to disable the HID's and see if the buzzing sound is from that, or from a different issue. Just thought I would see if anybody had any input, as I start a new job on monday and have to get it running lol.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

manual or auto? there's not a whole lot of variables in the starting circuit...

bmann_420

It sounds like the starter celinoid, but non of the shops up here have that alone, so I'm going to grab a starter with a new celenoid and see how that goes. Its an auto, but the engine I swapped it out with had the clutch on it with no starter. Maybe it just went out, have to wait till tomorrow to switch it out.

And their are 3 power cables associated with the positive terminal, with a solder fuse. 1 to the ecu and other misc fuses, and the other 2 harnesses distributed throughout the engine or other fuse boxes.

Its difficult to pinpoint the sound, but ill start with the starter, since it does sound like the celinoid.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

solenoid is the correct spelling...MD619995 is the OEM part number for the starter solenoid...strange that no one can get a hold of one. who installed the motor? was the torque converter installed correctly?

bmann_420

I swapped the engine. I took off the clutch and put the converter and tranny on exactly how it was on my old engine and to torque specs with thread lock.

Its not the starter, its a louder buzzing for 2 seconds, then a lower pitch buzz for 2 seconds.

Okay so going under the car and having my son turn the key repeatedly when needed, the sound is coming from inside the transmission. It doesnt sound quite like its at the torque converter, but more like the front pan area, or thats where its resonating at least. So I dont know about that one.

EDIT:
Ha, well I must have had a few beers when i connected my cable line to the tranny. It was just not in the park position, I was 1 off. So I fixed that, and the white mark on the cam pully matched the 11 oclock mark on the head, the crak pully with matched up with the tdc mark and i tried to start it. took a min for the fuel to get in their and then it sounded bad, like a thrumping sound. Diddnt go to much farther, since I was worred about the valves or something.

It runs, slight ticking, might be lubrication needs to set in. It doesnt want to stay running though, it dies after a few seconds. Kept starting it and it still wants to die after like 5-10 seconds. Its been sitting for a while, so maybe the fuel filter could use a change since im sure theirs some old mucky gas in their. I put new gas in their also. But it doesnt want to stay running, slow to respond to the gas peddle.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

transmission range switch was my next guess...the reason I asked about the torque converter is I've seen people install the torque converter on the flex plate, then mount the transmission without aligning the pump drive, and basically destroying the transmission...or the pump section rather...

bmann_420

Thanks for your help =)

I added some Lucas oil stabilizer in hopes to help the sound. Gonna fine tune it, take it around the block and report back. My hid's are dead though. Gonna have to buy a new pair, any references on that?

And the knocking sound is throughout the head, and bogs down on low rpm. I reset the timing twice trying to get rid of the tapping and it worked. Although after heating up, it sounds like a piston is knocking, only after it warms up.

bmann_420

Okay, so I adjusted the timing to double check and get rid of the ticking. I matched up the crank and cam to the dot marks. I took a picture of the crank with the plastic case on where it ended up on the timing mark, and its definitly not perfect.

After it warms up, 2 minuts or so, it starts ticking again, but it sounds like its deep, more in the piston area. I am going to try and re-time it again, as im just guessing now since the marks diddnt line up on the plastic cover. Any suggestions?



This was after the actual crank was lined up.