ROAD/RACE- Stage 2 Cam.
i just brought the car home, the camshaft is in, runs smooth and idles fine, no check engine light. However i cant test it out fully, need to adjust my valve lash big time, its so bad that if i stray over 4,000 rpm, it sounds like a loud coffee grinder. so once i get the valve lash done, ill be able to punch it. hope i can do it fast, ill use the valve lash guide to help me out thats on the forums here. havent done it before, but it should be ok. ill keep you posted on how it goes.
One question, would i still use these instructions for the Stage 2 Cam to fix the Valve Lash:
Adjustment is as follows: Loosen the jam nut on the adjustment screw, loosen the screw a couple turns. Rock the rocker back so the gap opens, and insert the appropriate feeler gauge (Intake valve: 0.20 mm (0.008 inch) Exhaust valve: 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) ).
and another question hearint that horrible grinding noise from the valve lash, could i have damaged something? i didnt go over 4,000 rpm ?
Adjustment is as follows: Loosen the jam nut on the adjustment screw, loosen the screw a couple turns. Rock the rocker back so the gap opens, and insert the appropriate feeler gauge (Intake valve: 0.20 mm (0.008 inch) Exhaust valve: 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) ).
and another question hearint that horrible grinding noise from the valve lash, could i have damaged something? i didnt go over 4,000 rpm ?
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You really needed to professionally install this with Mitsu Shop Manual. Do not drive it unless it is properly adjusted etc..... I am at home and do not have the specs. Call the dealer or your installer to get specs asap.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Sounds good rock, i am probably going to take it to the dealer, and maybe not even say i have the cam in, and let the do valve lash service? or should i tell and get it done. Not sure if its a good idea now to drive to the dealer. If i call them how could they tell me the specs? am i asking for stock specs or what? because the Stage 2 cam is i imagine different profile, how do i tell the what to give me. If you have any info on this, it would be greatly appreciated, i hope i can take care of it in the next day or two, so i can fully test it. Thanks rock.
Originally Posted by ouch
One question, would i still use these instructions for the Stage 2 Cam to fix the Valve Lash:
Adjustment is as follows: Loosen the jam nut on the adjustment screw, loosen the screw a couple turns. Rock the rocker back so the gap opens, and insert the appropriate feeler gauge (Intake valve: 0.20 mm (0.008 inch) Exhaust valve: 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) ).
and another question hearint that horrible grinding noise from the valve lash, could i have damaged something? i didnt go over 4,000 rpm ?
Adjustment is as follows: Loosen the jam nut on the adjustment screw, loosen the screw a couple turns. Rock the rocker back so the gap opens, and insert the appropriate feeler gauge (Intake valve: 0.20 mm (0.008 inch) Exhaust valve: 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) ).
and another question hearint that horrible grinding noise from the valve lash, could i have damaged something? i didnt go over 4,000 rpm ?
Originally Posted by ROCK
ASk for stock specs. Nothing special. Be careful though in the meantime till you get it properly installed and hot adjusted.
Ok Dan, i'm sorry if i didn't properly state it, all i wanted to know is if i can use those measures for the stage 2 cam, i dont have perfect understanding in it, that is why i asked. I am not a professional, and i never did valve lash adjusting, so all i asked is if i have to use the same measures stated 20mm for intake valve and 30mm for exhaust. Even my installer didn't know the specs because he doesnt work for Mitsu, so he told me to get it adjusted. I didnt not drive it hard, and i do not plan to even drive it until i get it adjusted.
ok, fair enough.
yes, those are the correct adjustments. they will never change because that adjustment is to set the valve opening and closing point (vs the cam lobe itself) and nothing more. the lift and duration, while affected, are not adjustable with the valve lash.
I would not drive it either. you have increased lift and duration an unknown amount (because you bought RRM's cam
) and your lash has not changed. means your valves will be opening sooner and closing later than they are supposed to compared to the ramps on the lobes. you "could" be hitting your pistons. not likely, but could. this is, after all, the stage 2 cam
your mechanic:
A. shouldn't have started a job he knew he couldn't finish completely
B. shouldn't have started a job without the specs for the car
C. should have adjusted your valve lash without the specs since he put a cam in that has more lift and duration and THEN sent you to the dealer if he had no access to said specs
D. should have called the dealer and asked, saving you the trouble of taking it there and getting raped on the price of a valve lash adjustment
hope this is more along the lines of what you are looking for. my apologies for not being more constructive with my earlier post, I started a thread in OT a little bit ago if you need an explanation to go with my apology
yes, those are the correct adjustments. they will never change because that adjustment is to set the valve opening and closing point (vs the cam lobe itself) and nothing more. the lift and duration, while affected, are not adjustable with the valve lash.
I would not drive it either. you have increased lift and duration an unknown amount (because you bought RRM's cam
) and your lash has not changed. means your valves will be opening sooner and closing later than they are supposed to compared to the ramps on the lobes. you "could" be hitting your pistons. not likely, but could. this is, after all, the stage 2 cam
your mechanic:
A. shouldn't have started a job he knew he couldn't finish completely
B. shouldn't have started a job without the specs for the car
C. should have adjusted your valve lash without the specs since he put a cam in that has more lift and duration and THEN sent you to the dealer if he had no access to said specs
D. should have called the dealer and asked, saving you the trouble of taking it there and getting raped on the price of a valve lash adjustment
hope this is more along the lines of what you are looking for. my apologies for not being more constructive with my earlier post, I started a thread in OT a little bit ago if you need an explanation to go with my apology
Thank you very much Dan for your post. It does help me very much now to know where im at. Very good explanation from you. I will get the valve lash done ASAP. I will most likely call my dealer and just pay for valve lash adjustment. If i don't mention the cam, and just say i need to get valve lash adjustment done, would they be able to notice? If all it is, is going to the dealer and paying them to do valve lash, then its no problem, id rather pay them, they know what they are doing. Im just not sure what to say, maybe that my valves are loud? and that i just want it done. Because they did do it at 45,000km, and now im at 73,000km, and i dont want them to suspect that i got the cam. If they can tell easy, i will just get a friend of mine that tunes cars, get the Valve Lash thread open on how to do it, and just do it on my own with his help. Thanks again Dan, great help!
meh, if you have the money pay the dealer. tell them you noticed last time the engine was much quieter afterward, and to do it again
make sure you specify valve lash adjustment though, you don't want them to throw anything you don't need in
also, be sure they use the tech manual procedure(valve lash set when the engine is hot), although most of those guys go by the book some are not as quick on the uptake
make sure you specify valve lash adjustment though, you don't want them to throw anything you don't need inalso, be sure they use the tech manual procedure(valve lash set when the engine is hot), although most of those guys go by the book some are not as quick on the uptake
I dont think anything can happen, I had cars with the valves very very loose and very tight and nothing wrong happen.
Maybe the valves are over tighten and you dont see anything wrong under 4000, but when your car try to go to MIVEC maybe it keeps the valves open too much time or something and thats what you feel over 4000
but thats a MAYBE, fix it your self, even a 6 year old kid with the specs and the tools can make it right, that not a hard task
Maybe the valves are over tighten and you dont see anything wrong under 4000, but when your car try to go to MIVEC maybe it keeps the valves open too much time or something and thats what you feel over 4000
but thats a MAYBE, fix it your self, even a 6 year old kid with the specs and the tools can make it right, that not a hard task


