In order to rotate it look for the back of the intake side of the turbo and you should see a bunch of bolts around the outside 6 or so. slacken them all off a good 3-4 turns and you should be able to twist it.

Scorke

 

For cams, i'd know plenty of people use Jim Wolf Technology (JWT) or HKS. I'm sure Tomei is good too, but I haven't heard of that many people, none personally actually, that use them. For JWT cams, I'd go with either S3 or S4s with the S4s having the better top end, worse low-end and a lumpy idle. If you want to get new springs and retainers, look into their C-series cams. The comparable HKS cams are their 264's or 272s. HKS also has the Step-2 cams which require new springs and retainers.

For the ECU, I would personally use some form of a retuned stock ECU. JWT has ton's of experience with SRs, but you should use components they are familiar with/have tested (injector size and brands, MAFs). A tuner known as Enthalpy also retunes the factory ECU. He's based out of Florida and tends to tune more aggressively than JWT. JWT is known to be conservative. Yes, JWT will make less power, but it'll be totally reliable. I've used a JWT ecu in my car for over 100k miles with plenty of track time and no issues. The good thing about JWT for you is that they are use to tuning for the Cali 91 octance crap gas. There's another guy that goes by Calum that sells stock ecus with daughterboards that you can tune yourself. Basically, I wouldn't bother with any standalone. Keeping the stock ecu is great because it keeps all the built-in safety features, and stuff like cold-idle, etc.

Well, check out www.sr20forum.com. Most of the info is predominately FWD based (from the Sentra SE-R, 200sx SE-R, etc), but it's basically all the same for turbo stuff between FWD and RWD as far as internals, cams, turbos, injectors, ecus, etc.

Oh yeah.... for the car to run optimally, recirculate the BOV.

 

This looks like an awesome project. Another recommendation on a nice blue would be bright atlantic blue. It was a rare color option for earlier body style mustangs. I know it was most common in 1998. Keep us updated please...

 

Very cool project. I love 510's.

 

That looks sick so far. If you dont mind me asking, where did you get the engine, and would you go through them again? Thanks.

Nick

 

dude u must have money out the ****

 

i cant wait to see this thing finished it should be a beast.

David

 

This project is sweet. Cant wait to see the finished product.

 

Any updates???

 

Wow awesome project I would love to see some updates. Tomei cams are great but most of their stuff is designed to work either with their head package ( valve springs & retainers) or their entire head with 1mm bigger valves and port and polish. But im sure your past the cam decision already .

 

Sorry guys been busy. Car is going to paint soon(infinity g35 blue) but kinda hard to get the $4200 for paint/body since I am kinda straped trying to get a dailydriver(honda fit soon). I am workin on the motor got the head off new ARP studs in, greddy 1.2mm headgasket, Torqued down to spec of course. Then intalled HKS 264/264 cams. Then what I have been strugling with is getting the cam gears in the right position/synced up with the crank. MY dumb@$$ didnt mark the chain and gear when I took them off....so I think i got it cross your fingers when it starts up. lol. Engine harness is off to a speciality wiring shop that will rewire it for my datsun will all new relays. Basically send it back to me and all I need to do it hook up to all theconnectors in the enginebay(only one connector can go one place..cant mess that up!) , then mount ECU, and hook up +12v, IGN, START and fuel pump. Also I have been wokring on rewiring the whole car. I am ripping out all of the crappy wiring and using all new relays, fues box, etc. Bought a AL. pannel to mount everyhing that will mount inside agaist the firewall. I also have 200SQft of dynamat ordered so quite this beast up!!!!some pics;

CURRENT STATE:
finding IGN harness wires and basic necessity's




MISC s13 and 510 ratness combination. to the trash we go!!!!




NEW wiring, connectors, techflex(pro loom), 0AWG becasue battery will be in back and dont want a voltage drop by the time it gets to starter.



Mounting plate with Fusebox, BOSCH relays, and JUST the basics to get street legal!
(HEADLIGHTS<TAILLIGHTS<TURNSIGNALS<RUNNINGLIGHTS<H ORN) NO BMW heated seats here!!!




MOTor broken down, its @ TDC, both lobes on the first valve at poointing away from eachother( that is what I was told)hope it works...


Heart of the power...264/264. Have been told these will reach my hp goal of 400WHP


stay tuned! Takes a little longer because I am trying to do everyhitng the right way so I dont have ot go back and fix shi&
-stew

 

My dad sold his non wrecked 510 for $200....I wish I'd kept it.

 

incredible project! cant wait to see it progressing

When I saw 510..I thought u were talking about the Chevy S10 pickup

 

The timing chain, cam gears, and crank gear all have marks on them to line everything up. On the timing chain, 3 of the links are painted. There should be a dot on each of the cam gears that lines up with the painted links on the chain. Also, this should all be done with piston #1 at TDC. Also, there should be 20 chain links between the dots on the cam gears.

Since the motor is out, I'd go ahead and take off the timing chain cover and get everything lined up properly.

 

^ thanks speedracerut. Unfortantly I took the chain tensoner off and then tried to crank it over to TDC....whcih resulted in the chain skipping teeth. NOw I cannot rely on matching up the chain m,arks to the cam sprokets. I didnt want to take the whole front part off and reseal it(didnt know how it really came off) so I set the motor @ TDC...then put the cams in and lined up the gears how ENTALPY(sr20 tuner) advised on theri "how-to". This is by counting the teeth from the timing mark to the top of the head (8 dots for the ex. and 5 for the intake) Then putting the chain on. This way the cahin does not have to be in the exact timing marks altoughn the engine is set correctly(confusing maybe) hope this works...lol. thanks for the info!@ Also there aree 20 pins between IN and EX.