brocklt1

I have randomly was lurking in this forum rather than doing homework and found this thread. I figured I can help out as I have been involved with f-body's for almost six years now.

There was been a lot of miss information with this thread. I recommend you do your research before you open your mouth about something you have no experience with. I wont comment on an Evo, as I have only driven a few for a couple of minutes, but that doesn't give me the right to make a million conclusions. Thats an important life lesson for all of you who judge too soon.

Anyways, now that I sound slightly condescending, here is the stuff I came here to say:

LS1's are very reliable! We have a handful in our club that are well over 100,000 miles with heads/cam/nitrous. With that said we also have a few in our club that have blown their motors from either too much boost, too much nitrous, or some other mechanical gremlin. As you all know if you drive your car into the ground eventually it will break, however if you take care of it, it will last a long time like the couple of guys in our club. I would say you are good to about 500rwhp on the stock LS1 block before you should start upgrading. As with any car with that much power its best to put better than factory parts in there to save your investment.

Power levels for LS1 are: Manuals hit 300-330rwhp stock with the later years being higher as a result of Z06 intake manifold. The Auto's will do 285-320rwhp stock. I believe it is important to give a spread relative to the fact that all dyno's are different. On average, your basic LS1 will hit low 13's ideally, while a few have hit 12's stock. Bad drivers will be the ones at your local drag strip hitting 14's at 105mph all day long. Its really hard to drive a car that gets no traction in two gear stock; its night and day from driving an Evo.

As far as mods go, you can do pretty much whatever you want to make power. Gears, headers, x-pipe, lid, cam, heads, turbo, nitrous...whatever you want. Bolt ons, meaning no cam, heads, or forced induction will yield up to 360rwhp on the high end, and 330rwhp on the low end. The car should be able to hit mid 12's with the right tire. Auto cars will need a stall, and can hit low 12's with bolt ons. As a result of a lot of new cam technology, an LS1 with full bolt-ons and huge can hit 440rwhp. Conservative drivers who like a decent daily driver cam usually hit 415-420rwhp. I have several in my club that are shining examples. If one adds heads, then the power level can get very ridiculous, hitting over 500rwhp. After that level, more cubic inches, sheet metal intakes, and other tricks are used to make more power.

The car can take a 125 shot stock no problem with a good tune. Some people swear by a 150shot but I believe they are on borrowed time. A forged motor can take the juice all day long just like all small block chevy's. An LS1 has a high compression ratio and therefore does not like boost too much. Between 6-8lbs is a safe point to keep it at. I would not personally go higher than 6 lbs without a forged motor. At that level, the mid 400rwhp range can be hit, and at 8lb's just shy of 500rwhp can be hit. STSturbo is a popular easy turbo install that puts the turbo at the rear axle. I have two friends with this and it actually works. Otherwise I have another friend with an 850rwhp big single on pump gas. Its up to you, but things get expensive very fast.

I still think that price is a little high for that car. I would expect low 10's$ for that car, but its up to you if its perfect. I wish you a lot of luck! They are great cars! If you have any questions respond back, I will check back soon.

theEVOdream

iTrader: (41)

Why not forget all the hype of building up a car and just get an econobox and focus on school. After you graduate use all that money you just saved up and throw down on a down payment on an evo IX.... possibly a X. If you really need something on a budget but still have the itch to mod and want awd turbo why not buy a 1g GSX....

thaigleshmk

From my experience , All of (mostly) my friends own 2gen eclipses,Talons,etc.

They all mod their cars, After seeing their cars broken down every other day, It makes me doesn't feel comfortable with it. Because I am gonna need a reliable daily driver not a toy, If I really wanted a toy, I'd get an Rx7 FD and throw in an lsl1/t56.

Thanks for the comment Brocklt1.

As I said, What kind of the turbo kit should I go with?. Since I do lots and lots of roll races, Not on the streets, I don't go to the track, Therefore I DONT launch my car like EVER. Just like my evo, I never launch my car. So Should I go single? OR Twins?. My goal is about 600rwhp. As of right now. But I want to be able to go further If I have funds available. Thanks, I kinda like the single, Since you can run more boost and it hits you harder once it spools. But Idk . Enlighten me.

brocklt1

at 600rwhp, your block will not last long, which defeats the purpose of buying a low mile LS1 unless you really want a perfect body. You would have to spend a pretty penny, I would say around 8-10 grand for a built motor and a well running turbo kit.

you could however get the STS turbo kit, single, and have a 450rwhp car that traps 120+ all day long at a reliable 6-7psi.

thaigleshmk

Thank you, I actually might as well start off with that. Then I'll move my way up. Thanks!

RalliArtEvoVIII

iTrader: (30)

only american that will always have a place in my heart is the 04 z06...dropped on some 18x10.5 CCWs procharged

E. Haskell

I'd do heads/cam with a 100 shot when it's needed.

brocklt1

[QUOTE=thaigleshmk;4261314]Thank you, I actually might as well start off with that. Then I'll move my way up. Thanks!/]

http://www.ststurbo.com/ls1_camaro_dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3c6g6Q0v4U what it will sound like

theEVOdream

iTrader: (41)

AMEN! brutha!

CCW classics ...right?

TylerDurdenIX

If you go with a LS1 Camaro get a 01 or 02 because they have the LS6 Manifold as well as a few other bugs were worked out. The 98-00 LS1 motors had a slightly bigger cam but no LS6 Manifold. They are easy to work on, just have to know what you are doing. Yes the 2 spark plugs suck to change #7 and 8 because you have to jack your car up and get them through the bottom. But other than that they are fine. I had one for 2 1/2 years and was very reliable, made it to 110k and going strong. Only problem was the tranny went out at 90k but thats GM's fabulous automatic transmission(sarcasm). They can make easy HP, full exhaust, intake and tune and your looking at 350+RWHP and TQ. They are also top end cars compared to some V8 sport cars. There are days where I miss my Camaro and im still debating on going back to a Fbody but thats in the future. If I went back it would be a WS6 LS1 this time, a little better interior and body looks imo.

Differences between LS1 Z28's and SS are the hood, spoiler, and rims unless you are to get the SLP package.
The reason why the SS HP is a bit better is because of a less restrictive exhaust, but when I had SLP Loudmouth on my car as the only mod I was beaing on stock SS LS1's all day long.

thaigleshmk

Wow nice... Yes I just got it today, It's a 2000. It's pretty fast. Cruising with T-Top off is the best thing! WOO HOO...

brocklt1

congrats man, I bet your old car felt faster because LS1's have such a linear power curve - but dont let that fool you, look at the speedo and you will understand the power.

go on to LS1 tech and you can do a few free mods like hacking up the air box. just for fun, you could get a cutout welded on there for around 40$. cheap easy fun till you get your turbo

2 Deep Motoring

iTrader: (1)

I Honestly Would Just Get A Wrx...

mohseen87

wat college u going to?

thaigleshmk

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