I am hoping the throttle will not steer the car too much. How the LS-IS is set up, it will start spinning tires at anything above 1/2 throttle. I am hoping that tire selection will help the rear stay planted. Those are all hopes anyways. We will find out how it really is once the car gets finished. I know that throttle responce will suffer when compared to a v8. At the momment, 600whp is my goal, I have thought of selling the 1450's, and getting some 2200cc injectors so the car can make 750ish. My thoughts are that boost can always be turned down. Also with the LS-IS, we are already wanting more power. (Stoker in the works)

 

Here is a little teaser. I got started on the transmission mount today. Honestly, I am thinking that the transmission will weigh as much as the assembled engine (minus accessories and manifolds). Currently the engine and transmission are sitting on mounts, and held up by nothing else.

 

Last week a friend came by the shop to work on his is300. He then decided to help me start gutting my doors. He left me with the finish work on the front passenger door. We even cut out the bar. But do not worry, it is getting nascar bars like the posche 914 I am building. Also the glass will be replaced with lightweight lexan. Also the door is a. Little floppy when opening, lol.

 

Crazy swap man, hope it turn out good, looks great so far. Wish I had access to a shop, probably get into out of the box swaps like this.

 

Update,

I haven't had a bunch of time to work on my toy lately. Part if the reason is I got another daily that needed some work, the other part is I have been working on customer cars, or stancels lex in my spare time. It will get worked on soon.

Now for the actual update, lol. I got my first official sponsor aside from Batlground (it would be stupid not to sponsor myself). Modern Automotive Performance, aka MAPerformance. They hooked me up with a quartermaster flywheel and some flanges for the turbo manifold at a price I could not refuse. The 4g63 flange is awesome, it is fully cnc'ed out of stainless steel. They made the flange transition from oval to round, as well as added grooves so that the 1.5" runners will stay perfectly centered above the exhaust ports. That's about it, I will update more as I should have a little more free time to actually work on the car in the near future.

 

Looking good

 

Glad I stumbled upon this thread. Very cool idea. I'm a huge fan of LS1 swapping stuff, but building what some might call a "pointless" setup is always awesome to see. And LS engine will make more torque and make the power easier, but it's been done so many times it's not really original to see it in a swap like this. Kudos to you for attempting it and good luck.

 

I have a large update, sort of. It is stuff I have done, but have forgotten to post it online.

Anyways, one of my co-workers got some dry ice to remove the sound detening from his AE86. After he was finished with it, I used it to get what I had left off of my floorboard. It works wonders compared to the chisel and hammer technique I was using. Like usual, here are the pics.

During



After


I started making a fuel surge tank, aka swirl pot. It goes between the fuel tank and fuel rail to make sure I get every last drop of fuel, even during hard cornering. I will have 2 low pressure pumps pulling fuel from sumps to be made on the oem gas tank pumping into the swirl pot, and a large high pressure pump after the swirl pot to feed the fuel injectors. That way no matter what, as long as the surge tank has fuel, the car will not get air mixed in. I am running this setup and not a fuel cell, because the race series requires FIA-3 approved cells. Those start at $600, and the blatters need to be replaced every 2 years. This works without having to be "serviced". plus the weight of the fuel will be lower and more centered.








The EFI pump will go next to the pot, more centered in the spare tire well.





And it complete



Next in my long lost pics is is300 vs sawzaw.

 

SRTRaceR04- I am glad you understand my reasoning for wanting to go with the 4g63, and everyone for the kind words.

 

any updates?

 

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!! I hope everything is coming together smoothly!

 

The original plan was to deal with the suspension later. Before the car drove, but after most of the chassis fabrication. This plan changed when a good friend (stancel) decided to try to drift up the rumble strips at road atlanta. That did not end well for anyone.



I donated my good suspension to him. He replaced the items that he broke that I do not plan on upgrading (axle, hub). The toe and trac links both got damaged on the driver's side. That gave me the incentive (car is stuck on jackstands) to get the car rolling again, literally.

For this, I contacted the guys at allstar performance (big in dirt track). I know other companies make these products complete, but this way is just more fun



It took a few orders to determine exactly what I needed, but I finally got everything. The toe rod was fairly simple, just assemble the parts. I might have to ream out the tapered hole on the hub a little because I ordered 1.5" per foot taper rods, and the stock ones are 1.33" per foot taper. They fit close, but not quite perfect. The trac rods required cutting off the old mount and transferring that over. The chopsaw, and tig welder made short work of that job. Here are the finished ones next to the oem ones.







Here is everything complete, also are the sway bar endlinks I ordered.

 

I started stitch welding the car. It is the biggest PITA on this project for multiple reasons. First, ALL of the factory sealer must be removed, not just on the outside of the factory edges, but inside all the cracks as well. Some people use heat guns, but I prefer a wire wheel. This method is a lot messier, but gets the job done quickly. Then a pick to get in all the groves and remove the little bits by hand. A smaller wire wheel preps the area for welding. Here is a pic of the mess.




And some close-ups of the prep process.

Before:



Ready for welding



The last step in this process is welding; I decided to do approx 1” dashes instead of dots. It is just easier once started to continue the weld.

Here are the completed pictures. As you can tell, I have done less than ¼ of the car, and this took 6 hours so far.

 

Damn that's a lot of work. Hopefully it pays off in the end. Here is a for your hard work

 

I don't know what your method is or how thick that steel is but, with all that stitch welding you might want to cool those welds with compressed air right afterward to help prevent warping.