Mark,

Give me a shout.....You can bring the car over, I will hook up my boost leak tester and we can find all of your problems.....Too easy.

Paul

 

what's your schedule like this weekend?

 

Not much going on this weekend. You can take a look at those winter wheels and tires too while you are here.

 

If you look around on the threads here, you can find a DIY boost leak tester. I ended up making one for myself. It's really easy and you can get your parts at almost any hardware store. A downsizing coupler, PVC endcap, drill, sealant, clamps, and a tire stem is pretty much all that is needed (on top of an air compressor). Not for looks but works.

Even easier, go see Paul

 

I have a few things for sale

Milli Miglia wheels with snows....make offer.
A set of EBC yellowstuff front pads NEW $70
A set of 1260cc injectors $300
5Zigen cat back $200
Knock off C-west bumper.....Come get it.

 

Is the virtual dyno an excel document? I have something where you paste your load/rpm and it crunches it for you based on few settings. I downloaded a trial of DLL but have yet to put my numbers into it. I have been busy with family in town for Thanksgiving.

I was thinking I am around the 300 mark specifically in the 300-310 range but comparing to your numbers maybe a little higher. I'll try to get my recent loads into one of the virtual dynos.

 

i figured i needed one for myself.
went to ACE. got the perfect size cap. had some extra fancy bolt together tire valve stems, drilled hole bolted up and viola! thing worked perfectly.
fixed my coupler issue, ran the tester and found it was still leaking because i didnt have the clamps on tight enough.
fixed that then found my BOV is leaking off pressure at around 11PSI through this nipple on the top. I don't believe it is supposed to do that, and its a ****ty Type S so i just picked up a 9 OEM that should be here friday or sat. after that im good to go!

Thanks for the offer to help Paul!
what do you want for those wheeeeeeels?
and can you give me a name for them so i can look em up online?

 

You can repair the type S if you want. Pretty easy fix for where it is leaking. It is actually common on adjustable BOVs.

Take the adjusting screw out and wrap it with some teflon plumbers tape and reinstall it. BAM fixed that leak.

As for the wheels..Mille Miglia Action...here is what they look like.

 

ill take a look at it this weekend.

as far as the wheels go, not my cup o tea unless you're asking significantly less than a set of OEM 8's which is what im expecting to find. i just dropped some cashola on snow tires cause i wanted some top o the line blizzaks. im dumb and should have just picked up your set. oh welllllls.

 

Yes, I am asking significantly less.....like less than you paid for 2 of your blizzaks.

 

AUDIO NERD ASSISTANCE NEEDED!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post7770102

 

Anyone around here with aftermarket o2's have any issues with cold weather causing excessive boost creep?

With the nasty blow of recent cold weather, I noticed not being able to control my peak boost. No matter what it would hit my target and jump to 24psi at the high end. I didn't see this last year and this past summer I installed a Megan. 24psi wouldn't be a problem if I had the fuel...I do need a pump.

It looks like I'll be getting out the air tools to open up the o2 wastegate merge based on the research that I have done. It sounds like the Megan/Ebay o2's tend to have this issue depending on the setup. I guess the backpressure that is cause at the merge point restricts the purging of the wastegate flow. Two things can be done, one to port the merge in the o2, the other to port something on the turbo side.

 

whats wrong with the OEM O2 housing?

 

Cold air is more dense so you will see some crazy boost characteristics. I always turn my boost down a few pounds in the winter as a "just in case" scenario.

You need to make the O2 housing wastegate side big enough to put a golf ball through. It is a pain to do, but it works great once it is done.

Easiest way is to remove the DP bolts then pull the turbo and exhaust mani as one piece. Yes it can be done with the radiator still in the car.

Another way is to remove the clamp that hold on the hot side. Then you can remove the hotside with the o2 housing still attached. Be careful of the tiny dowel pin that aligns the turbo....it breaks easily. good thing about this way is that you can port the hot side while you are at it.

Or you remove the 02 housing with the turbo still in the car but it is a major pain to remove and reinstall.

Let me know if you need a hand. My garage is always available.

Heck drop some $$ on a fuel pump....I can install it in about 15 minutes.

 

Thanks for the info on the different removal procedures. Not sure how I want to attack this but I am 99% sure the issue will go away after I open that merge up.When I installed the o2 it was a pain since I did it with the turbo still on the car and had to remove the radiator.

I've got a garage but thanks for the offer. I wouldn't mind some help/company while doing this though. Also, I am not sure that I have sufficient grinding capability with my tools to get this one done.

The pump is an option but not at this time. I know its such an easy job but there is a good reason.

Mark - Actually, I have seen some debates on this subject whether the o2 is a worthwhile upgrade over the oem. Some say yes, some say no. If I knew about this, I would have either ported the thing before install or not installed it at all. This cold weather business sucks.