I'm in if we can get the price down to $600 bux, i seriously dought i could come up with any more money than that. Is anyone promoting the St. Louis GB? I bet we could come up with 10 more people wanting the P2 reflash.

 

So far we seem to have potentially picked-up a few more possible participants today..maybe more, and at $600 this re-flash would be priced right for most. I have also seen some renewed interest in the original re-flash which would also be an option as well.

I think that we will get the 5 remote participants as the midwest region is huge... not necessarily logical unfortunately. Anyway if we can get the 5 mail-ins confirmed, then we are not that far away from the 20 participant 20% discount mark. It is definitely possible between now and Nov. 1.

N10S

 

on the first post, what is the different between rev limited dyno and boost dyno???

i though P2 or p1 cover both of them?

-Ben

 

Turboholic-

There are some folks that have already built their cars using piggy-backs, cams, intakes, etc..... . Since they already have a ay to manage fuel and possibly timing, all they need is a way to raise the ceiling of their rpm limiter.

Works offers a re-flash that simply changes the rev-limit for those that desire to do so.

Hope this info helps!

N10S

 

just call and confirm my order for the P2 from works!!!
name: Ming G
N1OS, who should i talk to set up the dyno comfirmation?

-Ben

 

Got a question:

What are the EXACT hp/torque gains for the P1 and P2?? Please specify both at the crank and wheel.

 

Ben- I will list you on the Works Gb and dyno day lists!

Thanks for confirming!

N10S

 

Based on the current info on the site I see :

P1 gains over baseline= Hp 28.8 Tq 15.8
P2 gains over baseline= Hp 36.4 Tq 25.4

These are whp readings, and from info provided by Works these are representative of 91 octane maps vs 93 which will provide better numbers.


N10S

 

What percentage of hp is lost at the crank?? I'm trying to back into the overall numbers!

 

I think the numbers most often used are somewhere between 22%-24% typically. Many folks have just used a 25% loss factor, but this is probably too high. Even Claudius, who used to be one of this boards moderators and probably one of the best tech experts on the Evo mentioned that it might be closer to 23%.

I know this isn't exact, but it gets you in the ballpark!

N10S

 

i just called WORK, they said there only 7 people who is going,
that means we're gonna charge for full price?

plus, i am concerning about the upgrade after the P2, and the 1/4 miles time with p2 equiped EVO?

because looks like there is no much i can do beside the engine after upgraded with the P2, 250awph is not my goal still, maybe hks cam?

but the regular upgrade such as AMS stage 1 kit with s-afc, ebc, catback, etc, can have 300awph easily.

no offence, i know WORK has reliable product,
because that's two different pathes for upgrading the EVO,
just want to find a better way to do it.

can someone answer about these, plz?
thanks

-Ben

 

Help me with my math skills here...on a bone stock EVO:

P2 - 315 hp and 304 torque (using 23% and 271/273)

 

where did you get 271 dyno from?
all i see now is 250 awhp dyno chart from WORK,
and i have been told that they have their axle-back on the evo when they dyno it, that's another $299 for the axleback from WORK.

-Ben

 

[

There are seven confirmeds on the list today as we speak. The list actually has 11 participants on it including you. We will be trying to confirm the rest of the list over the next several days. At the seven participant level the discount is still 10%. I don't think it will be too hard to hit the next level which is 15% when we have 10 people confirmed. Take a look at the very front of this thread, and it should give you the details of the breakdown of discounts.

Quote:

plus, i am concerning about the upgrade after the P2, and the 1/4 miles time with p2 equiped EVO?

Not really too sure about the 1/4 mile times of a stock evo equipped with the P2 ...or even a car with the P2 with other exhaust and intake mods. This is a very controversial subject, especially since stock Evo's have been able to provide 1/4 times from around 13 flat to the low 14's. Thats a pretty large delta don't you think?

Lots of room for variation of track and weather conditions, as well as differences in fuel, and driver skills.
No one can answer your question accurately, but its probably safe to say that a 30-40whp difference could potentially net 3-4/10's of a second improvement generally speaking. Really depends on where whp improvements are made under the curve.

Quote:

because looks like there is no much i can do beside the engine after upgraded with the P2, 250awph is not my goal still, maybe hks cam?but the regular upgrade such as AMS stage 1 kit with s-afc, ebc, catback, etc, can have 300awph easily.

The P2 can be used with other works mods like the aperture throttle body, and/or the exhale axle back muffler delete pipe. You don't necessarily have to use the Works parts either. There are folks successfully running the original P1 with turbo back exhausts, intakes, and boost controllers. Txevo has this kind of set-up and was pushing close to 289whp if I remember correctly.

In addition Works is supposedly working on a cam-optimized reflash. They are also working on a special intake system that will also have an optimized reflash. No one else is doing this yet but Works will have these optimized solutions in the future.

Btw Works cannot quote you hp/tq gains for their re-flash combined with non-Works products. If you want to see the results you just need to dyno your car.

Quote:

no offence, i know WORK has reliable product,
because that's two different pathes for upgrading the EVO,
just want to find a better way to do it.

There are multiple modification paths one can take with an Evo. Its really all about modifying the engines ability to breath better from both intake and exhaust perspectives. Its also about modifying engine management to performance tune fuel, timing, and boost.

Using piggy-backs or stand-alone controllers is one possible method, another is buying a full stand-alone ECU to replace the factory ecu, and another very affective tuning method is to just reflash/reprogram the stock ecu with new fuel, timing, and boost maps. Whichever path you use is going to be up to you to decide.

Each has its benefits and each has its downsides. I have always kind of looked at the Works re-flash in the same way I would look at a Ralliart performance ecu. An easy path to smoothe, reliable power, without lots of extra gadgets hanging off the car trying to trick the ECU by intercepting and then sending new modified signals to control the performance of a car. Instead performance is truly upgraded within the program code changes in the ecu.


can someone answer about these, plz?
thanks

Ben- You need to think about your choices and try to make a decision. I can see that you are uncertain as to which path you should take. Going the Works route is not going to limit you from doing normal mods like an intake, or a full turbo-back exhaust. Other bolt-ons which create more dramatic changes like a set of cams would be best served by custom tuning. Although Works may be working on this, I cannot speak for them to the certainty or timing of this likelihood.

Bottom line is that if you decide you want to do something different, then call Works back soon, and have them cancel you off of the list and it will be no hard feelings. Just pm me to let me know. I am probably going to validate the gb list soon anyway, and once we have done that, I will expect folks to be either on or off based upon certain agreed upon criterion. I hope you continue to head down the Works gb path, but I am also a proponent of people doing whats right for them personally.

Hope this info helps

N10S -Ben [/QUOTE]

 

Nathan-

Yes that looks correct considering the basic info available. Just remember that this data is skewed though because you would really need to validate the original stock hp/tq numbers same car, same dyno to try and get to what the 271/273 numbers "really" are.

Using the above method to back into general crank numbers is a fairly common thing to do, just not 100% accurate. The only way to really know would be to connect an Evo motor to an engine dyno, and truly measure power at the crank, before and after mods.

Turboholic- Nathans 271/273 refers to the stock Mitsubishi hp/tq numbers measured at the crank. He is just trying to adjust the whp/tq data to create a new crank hp/tq number based on the Works P2 dyno data.