Street Modified update
I run -1.4 in the rear and I barely use any of the inside edge of the rear tires. The outside edge is perfect.
as far as temps go, the rear tire temps seem to be consistant accross the tire (consistantly low that is)
as far as temps go, the rear tire temps seem to be consistant accross the tire (consistantly low that is)
I swear I remember reading on EvoM somewhere that one of you car setup gurus suggested to run the camber bolt at the minimum setting and let the camber plates do all of the adjustment. I thought it had something to do with the line of action of the strut being better inline with the motion of the suspension in this position. Any thoughts?
Tim
Tim
I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.
--Navid
--Navid
Originally Posted by Navid
I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.
--Navid
--Navid
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
Originally Posted by whitet777
I swear I remember reading on EvoM somewhere that one of you car setup gurus suggested to run the camber bolt at the minimum setting and let the camber plates do all of the adjustment. I thought it had something to do with the line of action of the strut being better inline with the motion of the suspension in this position. Any thoughts?
Tim
Tim
shiv
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
That's what we did. We added in positive camber with the camber bolts so that the fat tires clear the strut body and then dial in negative camber with the top hats.
shiv
shiv
I guess with stock wheels and 245 tires, it wouldn't matter though.
Tim
Originally Posted by Navid
I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.
--Navid
--Navid
I think that will work very dependently on the choice of front spring rate. I ended up having to run a six inch spring with a short helper spring to get there.
Mark
What???!!!
I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.

vs.

Joe
Oh, and this weekend was the unveiling of the new wrap job on the Evo. Here it is.
--Navid
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.

vs.

Joe
Originally Posted by Navid
Oh, and this weekend was the unveiling of the new wrap job on the Evo. Here it is.
--Navid
Last edited by Joe250; May 5, 2005 at 07:04 PM. Reason: .
I have my cambers bolts set to max camber, and with the JIC FLTA-2's at -2.5 camber the brake line bracket rubbed the inner fender well. A lot. I re-routed the brake lines to fix it.
Originally Posted by Joe250
I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.

vs.

Joe
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.

vs.

Joe
but Joe.. Stickers make you faster... So Navid just covered his entire car and he is silly fast!
Are you ever going to bring your new evo out to an autocross?
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
That's what we did. We added in positive camber with the camber bolts so that the fat tires clear the strut body and then dial in negative camber with the top hats.
Dave
Originally Posted by djh
But if you didn't have to do that you wouldn't, right? Because the more you tilt the struts the more you lower the roll center. Or is it not a significant difference?
Dave
Dave
Tim
Originally Posted by chronohunter
Navid, sounds like a great solution, are there any coil bind issues?
--Navid
Originally Posted by Joe250
I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.
Joe
You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.
Joe
. You are welcome to co-drive the "X" machine any time you want. We are heading to Wendover in 2 weeks for the Pro.--Navid


