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Old May 5, 2005 | 08:09 AM
  #61  
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From: Santa Cruz
I run -1.4 in the rear and I barely use any of the inside edge of the rear tires. The outside edge is perfect.

as far as temps go, the rear tire temps seem to be consistant accross the tire (consistantly low that is)
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Old May 5, 2005 | 08:57 AM
  #62  
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From: Kohler, WI
I swear I remember reading on EvoM somewhere that one of you car setup gurus suggested to run the camber bolt at the minimum setting and let the camber plates do all of the adjustment. I thought it had something to do with the line of action of the strut being better inline with the motion of the suspension in this position. Any thoughts?

Tim
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Old May 5, 2005 | 05:08 PM
  #63  
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I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.

--Navid
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Old May 5, 2005 | 05:16 PM
  #64  
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Navid or anyone running 285 all around, what do you need to do to the rear in order to fit the 285s besides rolling the fender? What offset and size of a wheel is needed? Thanks.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:15 PM
  #65  
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From: Boulder, Co.
Originally Posted by Navid
I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.

--Navid
Navid, sounds like a great solution, are there any coil bind issues?
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:19 PM
  #66  
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
Originally Posted by whitet777
I swear I remember reading on EvoM somewhere that one of you car setup gurus suggested to run the camber bolt at the minimum setting and let the camber plates do all of the adjustment. I thought it had something to do with the line of action of the strut being better inline with the motion of the suspension in this position. Any thoughts?

Tim
That's what we did. We added in positive camber with the camber bolts so that the fat tires clear the strut body and then dial in negative camber with the top hats.

shiv
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:25 PM
  #67  
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From: Kohler, WI
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
That's what we did. We added in positive camber with the camber bolts so that the fat tires clear the strut body and then dial in negative camber with the top hats.

shiv
Thanks Shiv.

I guess with stock wheels and 245 tires, it wouldn't matter though.

Tim
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:44 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Navid
I just changed my front springs from 10" to 8". Now I can fit the 285/30's without the spacers. That's the perfect size for the spring on the Ohlins. Any shorter and you won't have enough threads to raise the car enough. Any longer and you'll have fitment issues with beefy tires.

--Navid
Navid,
I think that will work very dependently on the choice of front spring rate. I ended up having to run a six inch spring with a short helper spring to get there.
Mark
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:58 PM
  #69  
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What???!!!

I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:

You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.





vs.



Joe


Originally Posted by Navid

Oh, and this weekend was the unveiling of the new wrap job on the Evo. Here it is.


--Navid

Last edited by Joe250; May 5, 2005 at 07:04 PM. Reason: .
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:01 PM
  #70  
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From: Kentucky
I have my cambers bolts set to max camber, and with the JIC FLTA-2's at -2.5 camber the brake line bracket rubbed the inner fender well. A lot. I re-routed the brake lines to fix it.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:16 PM
  #71  
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From: Santa Cruz
Originally Posted by Joe250
I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:

You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.





vs.



Joe



but Joe.. Stickers make you faster... So Navid just covered his entire car and he is silly fast!

Are you ever going to bring your new evo out to an autocross?
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Old May 6, 2005 | 05:23 AM
  #72  
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From: Columbus, OH
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
That's what we did. We added in positive camber with the camber bolts so that the fat tires clear the strut body and then dial in negative camber with the top hats.
But if you didn't have to do that you wouldn't, right? Because the more you tilt the struts the more you lower the roll center. Or is it not a significant difference?

Dave
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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:04 AM
  #73  
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From: Kohler, WI
Originally Posted by djh
But if you didn't have to do that you wouldn't, right? Because the more you tilt the struts the more you lower the roll center. Or is it not a significant difference?

Dave
That's the answer I was waiting for. Can anybody verify or elaborate? So is it better to run the eccentric full positive, full negative or dead center?

Tim
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Old May 9, 2005 | 06:34 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by chronohunter
Navid, sounds like a great solution, are there any coil bind issues?
With 500lbs springs in front, 8" is plenty tall. I just missed PAXing #1 by .1s for the whole event at last weekend's ProSolo. I'd say the car is handling well . No binding issues at all!

--Navid
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Old May 9, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #75  
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From: Saratoga, CA
Originally Posted by Joe250
I have read through this entire thread and the only thing I have to say is:

You have got to be kidding me, Navid! I heard more #$%* about my graphics last season and THAT is your car???!!! That is as subtle as a nuclear explosion.



Joe
The #$%* was more about your backwards "VIII", not the loadness of your graphics. We do miss your weired sense of humor on the road trips . You are welcome to co-drive the "X" machine any time you want. We are heading to Wendover in 2 weeks for the Pro.

--Navid
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