thats what i love about sm, it is really easy to take the car back to stock whenever you want to...

anyone adivce on a good starting tire pressure on a 275/40/17 v710?

 

Depending on your mods, YMMV

I run 38-40 psi front and 36-38 rear.

 

What do you mean by your KW's were eating away at your camber plates. Also what camber plates are you running

 

i had cusco camber plates and the washer or something in the camber plate was just torn apart from the kw's, i cant explain it in detail, i dont know enough about it but i know what i saw, v3's and cusco camber plates, at least the way the put them on my car, dont work

 

^Take some pics...as I have the same set-up...

Dennis

 

oh well a shop is fixing it right now, i will see if i can get the destroyed parts to get pics of.

after i autox'd on the new camber plates, i started hearding a clicking sound from the front suspension everytime i hit a decent bump. after some diagnosis, we attributed it to missing alan bolts in the spring perch. i replaced those but the noise kept getting worse and worse. after a while it would pop loudly everytime i encountered a bump.

I took my car to a race shop in slc and they found that the camber plates were getting chewed up. i will get pics when i pick up the car tomorrow

 

Sounds like the shaft spacer could've been too short, allowing play if the top sleeved nut was bottomed out. That could damage the bearing and any shaft washers. It happens on JICs when used with cusco hardware. Just need to add some washers or a longer spacer.

Or the underside of the plate could be banged up by the spring top hat making contact. Then again a longer spacer would be needed for clearance.

 

that does sound about right

 

My right top sleeve nut comes loose every so often, but I recognize the noice, so I just tighten it up. I bet it loosened up on you, causing a grap when you hit potholes and bumps...eventually tearing up the camber plate...at least it's getting fixed now. g/l...

Dennis

 

thanks, everythin is fixed and i went with some stiffer springs at the same time and it feels amazing

 

I had a similar problem. I have KW V3 Robispec clubsports and am using Tein camber plates in front and rear. Right after I installed them I noticed a kinda banging noise whenever I hit a pothole. It turned out that the top nut on my leftside front strut was coming loose and banging around inside the camber plate. I tightend it but the problem kept coming back. So eventualy I took the bolt completely off and applied some loctite. Then I retightend the nut and I have yet to have the problem come back after about 8 auto-x's.

 

awesome car man!

how would you compare the 04 SSL to the new RS? do you think you would have gotten the 04 to go as fast as the RS is if you would have kept it? only reason i ask is because i have an 05 SSL and i'd like to get it to compete at a national level, but dont know if the added weight will let the car do so, i know i can always get it to make more power, but i'm already running a 20g9-5, cams, and standalone, i know alot has to do w/ my driving skill lol, but when i get that up to par i'd hate to have the car be the only setback


anyways, good luck at nats!

 

SeanJhn9-

Thanks for the compliments. It sure is fun to drive! As for the '04 SSL, the only REAL difference that couldn't be equalized easily with the rules is the viscous coupling center diff of the '04 vs. the ACD in the '06. Other than that, you can replace the seats, remove rear seats, remove stereo and speakers, replace the roof with an aluminum roof from an RS or MR, etc. (Yes, if I kept the '04 I was actually going to do the roof swap to lower center of gravity )

Between the ACD and VCU I still don't think there is a concensus which one is faster or better for autocrossing. I'm going to say the ACD, simply because it has more control over the diff, but I'm sure there are some who will disagree.

Since you have an '05, you already have the ACD and the only thing you are lacking is the MIVEC. In my opinion an '05 SSL, with the right mods, can be just as effective as an '06 RS. The key is suspension, wheel and tire, and chassis setup. Power does not mean a whole lot. With a properly set up car, you can be very successful without much power. Look at my car. We won every single race we entered this year except 1, and that was with only 325whp running pump gas. Even at the 1 race we lost, sure, more power would have helped us, but having the car better sorted would have helped also. We had just added the wing and the car was pushing badly. It was really hard to get it to rotate in corners. It was basically just a test and tune day and we were still only out of 1st place by a few thousandths.

You can build your EVO into as competitive of an autocross car as you can afford. No one has ever built a 100% complete StreetMod EVO. The cost to get it to the minimum weight would be very high. But you can get it into the 2900 pound range pretty easily, even with the SSL. Depending on how far you want to go, you could consider an aluminum roof swap, but consider - it will probably only give you a couple tenths improvement per lap. Until you have done everything else that will give you equivalent improvements, and you feel you still need those last couple tenths to win, I would not really consider it. Making the drive faster is always a better idea. Find someone really fast to co-drive your car. Andy almost always beats me by around 0.5-1 second per lap in my own car.

EVOlutionary

 

great advice.. i am hating the acd lately. it is so jumpy flooring it out of turns, it seems like it takes it a second to realize that i am hammering it then the car jumps a little then finally goes and it really jerky. A race car engineer who is now finally working on my car suggested i go with a mechanical diff b/c it saves weight and is more effective and i am considering that

next year i am offing the kw's and getting something more aggressive... the guy who works on my car suggested some tien super racings with custom valving and springs...

Evolutionary, Mark, what coilovers are you running?? what spring rates?

 

Very interesting. I have been under the impression that my VIII was at a serious competitive disadvantage compared to the IX due to lack of the ACD, to the point where I considered selling it in favor of an IX, which I don't really want to do.
I have been curious about a mechanical solution, but not sure what the best options are. Obviously the VIII can benefit from a front diff and even a upgraded rear diff, but what are some of the best options for the center diff? Variable by how it is packed with disks, or in-cabin like some of the more complex rally drivetrains, what realistic options do we have?