2008 Street Mod Discussion
Ok so now that we are allowed to have carbon trunks, has anyone found any good deals on them? What are the lightest ones and the best priced ones? I'm guessing jarrod knows?
Pro2000 is 19 lbs, I have Bride FG rails (base mount + sliders + side mount) to mount mine which is about 9lbs or so. Total weight is 28 lbs.
A 2.0L with a 20G variant, or possibly a 2.0 or 2.3 with a 50 trim I feel will be optimal. I recommend a built motor that can rev to over 8000rpms. Instead of riding the rev limiter in 2nd gear (or *gasp* shifting to 3rd) and losing time and accelleration, get a built motor and take it all the way to 9000 in 2nd gear. With the 285's that should get you to about 75mph. Alternatively, you could get the HKS 4.11 final drive gear so that you can go faster for the same RPM. Smooth power is key. You don't want compressor surge, BOV stuttering, or anything like that at part throttle. The throttle input should feel as though it is directly liked to boost pressure (just how a stock EVO feels).
Please feel free to add to or argue with these opinions - that's what this forum is for!
EVOlutionary
I'm trying to locate a shop to install a set of Brian Crower 272 cams, Ti retainers, valve springs, and head studs near NYC.
How well does the stock head gasket hold up to every bolt and running at 26psi tapering down to 20? One shop mentioned to remove the heads to install the Ti valve retainers and high rev valve springs
Basically the car is setup for road race, but now in hind sight, might have started with Auto-X instead.
In addition to upgraded valve train components, to get to 9k you MUST have non stock rod bolts and likely non stock rods. Lighter weight pistons with better anti friction coatings probably wouldn't hurt either. The stock head gasket is fine.
Any company recommended for the bottom end? IE Cosworth, Tomei, HKS...
+1 - by "built" motor, I mean one with stronger rods, like AMS's or Buschur's race motors. Upgraded valvetrain also . . .
Looking back, my recommendations were more along the lines of an all-out, to-the-max car. Certainly not what it needed to be competitive, but what you could do if you were to take the car to the Nth degree. . .
Looking back, my recommendations were more along the lines of an all-out, to-the-max car. Certainly not what it needed to be competitive, but what you could do if you were to take the car to the Nth degree. . .
Are 18s really all that? I'll never compete on the national level, but I do need to get a new set of wheels and rubber. I have 17x9s that could take the auto-x rubber, save 18s for the street and the occasional track day.
And if 18s are all that for auto-x, I don't want to roll the rears. 18x9.5s are the biggest, I'm guessing, with a small drop (Eibach Pro Kit, 1.2"), will the 285/30/18s not rub?
Thanks.
And if 18s are all that for auto-x, I don't want to roll the rears. 18x9.5s are the biggest, I'm guessing, with a small drop (Eibach Pro Kit, 1.2"), will the 285/30/18s not rub?
Thanks.
Are 18s really all that? I'll never compete on the national level, but I do need to get a new set of wheels and rubber. I have 17x9s that could take the auto-x rubber, save 18s for the street and the occasional track day.
And if 18s are all that for auto-x, I don't want to roll the rears. 18x9.5s are the biggest, I'm guessing, with a small drop (Eibach Pro Kit, 1.2"), will the 285/30/18s not rub?
Thanks.
And if 18s are all that for auto-x, I don't want to roll the rears. 18x9.5s are the biggest, I'm guessing, with a small drop (Eibach Pro Kit, 1.2"), will the 285/30/18s not rub?
Thanks.
John
Any EVO autocrosser here who has the means should jump all over this. Sell your current car and get a little bit bigger loan and pick Marks beauty up. All of the hardest part of development is done (suspension). It has proven itself capable of winning at the highest levels . . .