2012 STU Discussion
THanks for the feedback vortigo. mine feels a tad tighter but no real locking going on.
hey arent you coming to the Nats?
not sure what you mean but STU has a lower PAX index.
hey arent you coming to the Nats?
not sure what you mean but STU has a lower PAX index.
Key here being the DOT rubber. SS thru BS all should be faster than you based on PAX index but another thing to consider is the level of prep required to run competitive pax times in classes that allow mods. Stock is easiest to compete in that fashion because their is so little you must do other than drive and a bit of shock magic.
Realistically even a top level ES miata will hand you your *** but maybe I just feel that way cause we have the alien Jerry Jenkins in out region
Realistically even a top level ES miata will hand you your *** but maybe I just feel that way cause we have the alien Jerry Jenkins in out region

Only a small bit lower right?
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
Now if both cars are not preped to the max of the class PAX goes out the window to a degree. For instance if the stock car on R comps had wider tires, modded shocks/swaybars/all the other legal 'stock' mods done they would defiantly have the advantage. Flip it the other way they may not. But generally I would expect any car running with a PAX index higher than STU (so as its been said BS,AS,SS) to beat a STU car in raw times, but it can be close especially after the pax. Lately I'm pretty much on, and sometimes better than a BS S2000 that comes out here; and that driver is great, I'd say for sure better than me.
Tires are also your best friend. Normally I am behind the guys running R comps, so far this year I'm beating three guys, two of which I never beat beat who I would say are better drivers than me (far more driver mod time). Both of them are on last seasons rubber (r-comp on one and road racing tires on the other).
Hopefully I'll attend nationals one day but I need at least a couple more years of driver time to improve. I saw the results of the last national event and I'd probably get somewhere around 15th-20th judging from a fellow autoxer from my region's performance at the same national event.
Only a small bit lower right?
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
SS 0.858
AS 0.844
BS 0.843
Depending on how much money you can spend you should be able to get a fairly decent STU trim evo that I would think would beat a BS trim evo without much issue. Its more the BS trim S2000 you need to worry about.
You would want to keep costs low by going for a set of MR bilsteins with swift springs for suspension, not worry about a Rear sway, doing the rear diff mod yourself, putting in a drop in filter (or getting a vibrant maf filter adapter and an amsoil filter for it), and an inexpensive 3" exhaust with hfc, along with a megan 02 housing. And then get a tune. You should pick up enough power with that along with good street tires (RS-3, Z1*, XS) which should come out to alot cheaper than the best R comps. I think my set of RS-3's in 245/40/17 was around $650 shipped (don't quote me), but the best price I've found on Hoosier A6's was over 1200 range, so nearly double. That $700 in savings could get you quite a bit of mods to improve your overall performance. $200 for a tune, $100 intake (overestimate), $400 for exhaust with an 02. Then you would just need to find some good MR bilsteins and some $250ish swift springs and you would be set.
Depending on where you live you may be able to save a couple of bucks buying used parts as well. I've had good luck sourcing some good used exhaust parts for far less than their new counterparts are. Sadly I'm not exactly near a major town so most of the parts I need to get I have to ship, thankfully the used parts I have bought have all been in very good condition as show in the pictures and the sellers have been quite honest (all from evom).
Hopefully I'll attend nationals one day but I need at least a couple more years of driver time to improve. I saw the results of the last national event and I'd probably get somewhere around 15th-20th judging from a fellow autoxer from my region's performance at the same national event.
Just need some time away from work!
Only a small bit lower right?
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
I've always played in stock class on R-comps.Been thinking of moving to STU,but it seems expensive to do all the allowed mods to be at the limit of whats allowed in the class.I could afford to do the engine mods only(for STU),or I could just stay in stock and buy a set of R-comps.
Just trying to figure which is best for me.
Aloha from Hawaii. I'm moving from CP (4th Gen Camaro) to STU with my EvoX MR. I have Ohlins coil overs, Hotchkiss Sways, Whiteline Endlinks, and Agency Power rear control arms. I'll be running a set of RS3's. Engine mods are an AEM intake and Tomei Titanium cat back. I was planning to schedule a tune with AMS in May. Are headers and downpipe recommended? I read the 02 housing delete is best but I would assume that is not STU legal? Also no inter cooler piping, correct? Also looking at the Girodisc Rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Any suggestions on toe? Right now I have zero toe.
I attended Evo School in January with the EvoX and was able to run the EvoX at one fun run. Off the pace of the STU leader (05 STi) by .7. I know I need to work on driving skills but any edge would help. As you can tell, I'm new to the Evo scene. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
I attended Evo School in January with the EvoX and was able to run the EvoX at one fun run. Off the pace of the STU leader (05 STi) by .7. I know I need to work on driving skills but any edge would help. As you can tell, I'm new to the Evo scene. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
You will find the X a bit of a pig in comparison to the 8/9's... this has been covered in other threads many times (attempting to build/compete in an EvoX in STU). Sounds like what you have so far in mods is fine to start, provided the whiteline endlinks up front are not the type that correct roll center. Ensure AMS knows that boost levels must remain stock, basically look at adjusting timing and AFR maps...
Driver mod driver mod driver mod... and then after that driver mod.
I would say zero toe is a fine starting point if this is a DD as well, if not, I'd likely go 1/16th or so toe out up front, and still zero toe rear should be fine.
GL
Driver mod driver mod driver mod... and then after that driver mod.
I would say zero toe is a fine starting point if this is a DD as well, if not, I'd likely go 1/16th or so toe out up front, and still zero toe rear should be fine.GL
Do not use the Hawk hps they won't stop your car, I couldn't even get them to engage ABS on my evo 9, stick with the Hawk hp plus or the ferrodo 2500 you will be much happier.
The charge pipes have to stay stock, the 02 housing can be changed out that will free up some boost and power. Also drop the stock battery that is easily worth 25 pounds.
The charge pipes have to stay stock, the 02 housing can be changed out that will free up some boost and power. Also drop the stock battery that is easily worth 25 pounds.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Anyone who was at the Finale last year - were they using the LED tree or the regular old lightbulbs?
DC ProSolo coming up in a few days... psyched!
DC ProSolo coming up in a few days... psyched!









