Tow Rigs, What do you have/use?
Better hope yours isn't a #53 block!!! 
http://www.cumminsdieselspecs.com/cummins-53-block.html
Read the above if you're interested in buying an older cummins so that you're aware
http://www.cumminsdieselspecs.com/cummins-53-block.html
Read the above if you're interested in buying an older cummins so that you're aware
Was happy to find a non-53 block - although most people don't have issues - just an unlucky bunch.
My trailer is an enclosed 24ft interstate trailer filled with car, tires, fuel, tools, and spares. I started towing it with a 2000 4x4 navigator.......adding up all the fuel, tires, spares, and tools.
This all started when I put a roll bar in the car! no more room for tires and fuel so that led to renting trailers which was a disaster with a lowered car so that led to buying a trailer which led to buying a bigger tow vehicle.
Be prepared for the slope you approach when you start trailering!
This all started when I put a roll bar in the car! no more room for tires and fuel so that led to renting trailers which was a disaster with a lowered car so that led to buying a trailer which led to buying a bigger tow vehicle.
Be prepared for the slope you approach when you start trailering!
When your towing with full load going up steep grades at higher elevations, how does your diesel behave power wise? do you find yourself flooring it just to get up the hills?
Does that diesel motor provide you enough power where your speeds arent slowly decreasing going up steep grades?
Last edited by TommiM; Mar 4, 2013 at 09:28 AM.
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/3648379387.html
Around here theyre pretty cheap. 20-25k will get a nice one. I looked into them too, but decided I like the GC CRD better.
Well the first one is either not a TDI or a scam, probably the latter.
The second one is a reasonable price, but I wouldn't call $24k for a 9 year old vehicle "cheap". The 2007-2008 models are rarely below $30k unless they have gobs of miles.
The second one is a reasonable price, but I wouldn't call $24k for a 9 year old vehicle "cheap". The 2007-2008 models are rarely below $30k unless they have gobs of miles.
Price is almost irrelevant if you have a good service dept and the Fidelity warranty behind the car (assuming the aesthetics are in order) with the v10. I have my first out of warranty service for a coolant line to the Webasto and a leaking tandem pump which I expect will run me $3k. I budgeted $10k for the next 3yrs so it's a chunk of it, but that's the mentality you have to have with the v10.
I do like how you're thinking diesel!!!
A new or used one? Have you driven them both or is this based on looks or research? I have the v10, a friend has the CRD (07 I believe) and we agree the v10 is far more refined in literally every way, but the CRD is cheaper to own assuming you don't have a serious issue when you go to the MB dealer for the engine or drivetrain.
I do like how you're thinking diesel!!!
I do like how you're thinking diesel!!!
. As far as the 3.0 VW vs Jeep, I didn't spend much time with the VW and had a buddy with an 07 GC and the GC worked best for me. I just liked it better. Interior quality seemed adequate on both and I thing the VW look pretty bland (Personal Opinion, I'm sure plenty VW guys think the Jeep is a pile or ugly or whatever). The CRD drivetrain is all Jeep, only the engine is MB. The 5speed tranny is actually the only major short coming. Its a bit laggy on downshifts or upshifts at full throttle but normal driving is fine. The engine is solid once a the swirl valve are disabled, and since the motor was used in MB, sprinters, and Jeep, there are quite a few to source parts from.
Hey Dallas
Pretty sure I meet you in timing this week down in Portland, nice driving and congrats on your engagement.
OK finally posting up my tow rig, bought it in Oct 2011 shortly after solo nationals.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 quad cab single rear wheel short bed. 325hp high output motor.
It came with a Class V hitch, brake controller, canopy, CTS edge touch screen engine computer, S&B cold air intake, and MBRP 4" turbo back,
I bought it with 189K on it at a local Dodge dealer for $9,500, it had been sitting on the lot for quite some time, ? probably color, maybe because it was a 2wd, what ever I picked it up for a song. The original auto lost reverse at 195K, I had it rebuilt and they added a billet cover t.c. and a shift kit. I have done a few maintenance items along the way, lower ball joints, replaced the shocks, fan belt, adjusted the valves. Other than replacing the tranny we have spent very litttle money on it, currently it is at 209k. We used it to tow a open 18' steel car trailer to Lincoln last September about 3300 miles round trip and it average 14 mpg, but we were flat out moving. Once we got out of Washington, we were pushing 75-80 mph through the bad lands. Made the trip (1662 miles) in two days.
The truck is flat out a freight train, nothing slowed it down at all. I would not hesitate to buy another one. The trailer we picked up a few months ago it is a 1998 featherlite 17-6' car hauler, it has been upgraded with led lights and aluminum wheels. It is rated for 7000k and weighs about 1100k, pulls beautifully. I didn't need to buy an aluminum one, but being in Seattle all the steel ones start rusting pretty quickly. I had an autocross buddy tig up the aluminum tire rack to make some room in the truck. Next mod is a holder for our pit bikes.
Pretty sure I meet you in timing this week down in Portland, nice driving and congrats on your engagement.
OK finally posting up my tow rig, bought it in Oct 2011 shortly after solo nationals.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 quad cab single rear wheel short bed. 325hp high output motor.
It came with a Class V hitch, brake controller, canopy, CTS edge touch screen engine computer, S&B cold air intake, and MBRP 4" turbo back,
I bought it with 189K on it at a local Dodge dealer for $9,500, it had been sitting on the lot for quite some time, ? probably color, maybe because it was a 2wd, what ever I picked it up for a song. The original auto lost reverse at 195K, I had it rebuilt and they added a billet cover t.c. and a shift kit. I have done a few maintenance items along the way, lower ball joints, replaced the shocks, fan belt, adjusted the valves. Other than replacing the tranny we have spent very litttle money on it, currently it is at 209k. We used it to tow a open 18' steel car trailer to Lincoln last September about 3300 miles round trip and it average 14 mpg, but we were flat out moving. Once we got out of Washington, we were pushing 75-80 mph through the bad lands. Made the trip (1662 miles) in two days.
The truck is flat out a freight train, nothing slowed it down at all. I would not hesitate to buy another one. The trailer we picked up a few months ago it is a 1998 featherlite 17-6' car hauler, it has been upgraded with led lights and aluminum wheels. It is rated for 7000k and weighs about 1100k, pulls beautifully. I didn't need to buy an aluminum one, but being in Seattle all the steel ones start rusting pretty quickly. I had an autocross buddy tig up the aluminum tire rack to make some room in the truck. Next mod is a holder for our pit bikes.
Last edited by JDMS60R; Mar 4, 2013 at 09:17 PM.
My trailer is an enclosed 24ft interstate trailer filled with car, tires, fuel, tools, and spares. I started towing it with a 2000 4x4 navigator. I had to use a weight distribution hitch and electronic brake controller but was able to manage.
I just felt that I was asking for trouble being at the limit of the tow capacity. After shopping for a long time, I upgraded to a 2004 Dodge 4x2 2500 SLT with 5.9l Cummings diesel.
The new tow rig has a longer wheel base, higher tow and tongue ratings, and more capacity. I went from 7-9 MPG of Premium with the Navigator to 18-19MPG of #2 Diesel with the Dodge.
The experience is night and day better. With just the standard tongue and ball, I don't feel the trailer at all unless the brake controller needs a little tweaking like whenever you change the weight of the trailer ie car in or car out.
I'll still use the weight distribution hitch for longer tows as it provide excellent sway control which is a factor with long enclosed trailers.
I went with a 5.9L HO engine and 6 speed transmission due to the hills I have to negotiate getting to the tracks in the NW. More control than an automatic at the expense of convenience. The 2004 HO engine is 305HP/325LBft TQ.
The Navigator's specs are similar but the engine was running 3500-4000 rpms up the hills while the diesel hums between 2000 and 3000 RPMs.
The wheelbase is the real difference. Navigator was short and the Dodge is so long it doesn't fit in a normal parking space.
The Dodge had a mid year upgrade to get 600 LBft TQ but lower MPG. Same reason I went with 2WD vs 4WD. Maximize the MPGs! As a bonus, early diesels are exempt from air quality inspections like gas engines are.
Yes there are Diesel haters out there so the gas trucks always have fans. Which ever you chose just match your tow vehicle to your trailer and contents and the trip will be pleasant.
My trailer is bigger than most for a couple of reasons: 1st, I would have to store any trailer I own regardless of size.
2nd, if I am storing a trailer, might as well store the car and gear as well.
This led me getting an enclosed trailer which adds weight especially when you start adding up all the fuel, tires, spares, and tools.
This all started when I put a roll bar in the car! no more room for tires and fuel so that led to renting trailers which was a disaster with a lowered car so that led to buying a trailer which led to buying a bigger tow vehicle.
Be prepared for the slope you approach when you start trailering!
I just felt that I was asking for trouble being at the limit of the tow capacity. After shopping for a long time, I upgraded to a 2004 Dodge 4x2 2500 SLT with 5.9l Cummings diesel.
The new tow rig has a longer wheel base, higher tow and tongue ratings, and more capacity. I went from 7-9 MPG of Premium with the Navigator to 18-19MPG of #2 Diesel with the Dodge.
The experience is night and day better. With just the standard tongue and ball, I don't feel the trailer at all unless the brake controller needs a little tweaking like whenever you change the weight of the trailer ie car in or car out.
I'll still use the weight distribution hitch for longer tows as it provide excellent sway control which is a factor with long enclosed trailers.
I went with a 5.9L HO engine and 6 speed transmission due to the hills I have to negotiate getting to the tracks in the NW. More control than an automatic at the expense of convenience. The 2004 HO engine is 305HP/325LBft TQ.
The Navigator's specs are similar but the engine was running 3500-4000 rpms up the hills while the diesel hums between 2000 and 3000 RPMs.
The wheelbase is the real difference. Navigator was short and the Dodge is so long it doesn't fit in a normal parking space.
The Dodge had a mid year upgrade to get 600 LBft TQ but lower MPG. Same reason I went with 2WD vs 4WD. Maximize the MPGs! As a bonus, early diesels are exempt from air quality inspections like gas engines are.
Yes there are Diesel haters out there so the gas trucks always have fans. Which ever you chose just match your tow vehicle to your trailer and contents and the trip will be pleasant.
My trailer is bigger than most for a couple of reasons: 1st, I would have to store any trailer I own regardless of size.
2nd, if I am storing a trailer, might as well store the car and gear as well.
This led me getting an enclosed trailer which adds weight especially when you start adding up all the fuel, tires, spares, and tools.
This all started when I put a roll bar in the car! no more room for tires and fuel so that led to renting trailers which was a disaster with a lowered car so that led to buying a trailer which led to buying a bigger tow vehicle.
Be prepared for the slope you approach when you start trailering!
http://www.cumminsdieselspecs.com/cummins_timeline.html
Hey Dallas
Pretty sure I meet you in timing this week down in Portland, nice driving and congrats on your engagement.
OK finally posting up my tow rig, bought it in Oct 2011 shortly after solo nationals.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 quad cab single rear wheel short bed. 325hp high output motor.
It came with a Class V hitch, brake controller, canopy, CTS edge touch screen engine computer, S&B cold air intake, and MBRP 4" turbo back,
I bought it with 189K on it at a local Dodge dealer for $9,500, it had been sitting on the lot for
Pretty sure I meet you in timing this week down in Portland, nice driving and congrats on your engagement.
OK finally posting up my tow rig, bought it in Oct 2011 shortly after solo nationals.
2004.5 Dodge 3500 quad cab single rear wheel short bed. 325hp high output motor.
It came with a Class V hitch, brake controller, canopy, CTS edge touch screen engine computer, S&B cold air intake, and MBRP 4" turbo back,
I bought it with 189K on it at a local Dodge dealer for $9,500, it had been sitting on the lot for
Man you out of state guys are lucky. We got people here California selling a dodge cummins 4X4 2500 or 3500 with 200k+ miles for almost $20k. I've missed a couple "deals" recently but i'm still patiently searching. Been looking for a 04-09 Dodge Cummins 2500/3500 6spd manual with less than 150k miles 4X4 for around $20k for awhile but no luck. Most recent deals I lost was a 04 2500 quad cab long bed 4X4 6spd manual with 185k for $13,500, and a 06 3500 quad cab dually 6spd manual with 190k miles for $14k. Mainly looking in Cali, Arizona, Neveda, and Texas for the least possible chances of getting a rusted one, as I certainly don't want a truck with medium-heavy rust 
Hell some crackhead dealer in norcal was selling a 98-2002 model year dodge cummins 3500 4X4 6 speed manual with 150k miles for $19k. They're great trucks but damn, some of delaers are out of their mind with their prices.
Last edited by L888Apex; Mar 4, 2013 at 09:11 PM.
WHAT!? Man you out of state guys are lucky. We got people here California selling a dodge cummins 4X4 2500 or 3500 with 200k+ miles for almost $20k. I've missed a couple "deals" recently but i'm still patiently searching. Been looking for a 04-09 Dodge Cummins 2500/3500 6spd manual with less than 150k miles 4X4 for around $20k for awhile but no luck. Most recent deals I lost was a 04 2500 quad cab long bed 4X4 6spd manual with 185k for $13,500, and a 06 3500 quad cab dually 6spd manual with 190k miles for $14k. Mainly looking in Cali, Arizona, Neveda, and Texas for the least possible chances of getting a rusted one, as I certainly don't want a truck with medium-heavy rust Hell some crackhead dealer in norcal was selling a 98-2002 model year dodge cummins 3500 4X4 6 speed manual with 150k miles for $19k. They're great trucks but damn, some of delaers are out of their mind with their prices.
Man you out of state guys are lucky. We got people here California selling a dodge cummins 4X4 2500 or 3500 with 200k+ miles for almost $20k. I've missed a couple "deals" recently but i'm still patiently searching. Been looking for a 04-09 Dodge Cummins 2500/3500 6spd manual with less than 150k miles 4X4 for around $20k for awhile but no luck. Most recent deals I lost was a 04 2500 quad cab long bed 4X4 6spd manual with 185k for $13,500, and a 06 3500 quad cab dually 6spd manual with 190k miles for $14k. Mainly looking in Cali, Arizona, Neveda, and Texas for the least possible chances of getting a rusted one, as I certainly don't want a truck with medium-heavy rust Hell some crackhead dealer in norcal was selling a 98-2002 model year dodge cummins 3500 4X4 6 speed manual with 150k miles for $19k. They're great trucks but damn, some of delaers are out of their mind with their prices.
WHAT!? Man you out of state guys are lucky. We got people here California selling a dodge cummins 4X4 2500 or 3500 with 200k+ miles for almost $20k. I've missed a couple "deals" recently but i'm still patiently searching. Been looking for a 04-09 Dodge Cummins 2500/3500 6spd manual with less than 150k miles 4X4 for around $20k for awhile but no luck. Most recent deals I lost was a 04 2500 quad cab long bed 4X4 6spd manual with 185k for $13,500, and a 06 3500 quad cab dually 6spd manual with 190k miles for $14k. Mainly looking in Cali, Arizona, Neveda, and Texas for the least possible chances of getting a rusted one, as I certainly don't want a truck with medium-heavy rust Hell some crackhead dealer in norcal was selling a 98-2002 model year dodge cummins 3500 4X4 6 speed manual with 150k miles for $19k. They're great trucks but damn, some of delaers are out of their mind with their prices.
Man you out of state guys are lucky. We got people here California selling a dodge cummins 4X4 2500 or 3500 with 200k+ miles for almost $20k. I've missed a couple "deals" recently but i'm still patiently searching. Been looking for a 04-09 Dodge Cummins 2500/3500 6spd manual with less than 150k miles 4X4 for around $20k for awhile but no luck. Most recent deals I lost was a 04 2500 quad cab long bed 4X4 6spd manual with 185k for $13,500, and a 06 3500 quad cab dually 6spd manual with 190k miles for $14k. Mainly looking in Cali, Arizona, Neveda, and Texas for the least possible chances of getting a rusted one, as I certainly don't want a truck with medium-heavy rust Hell some crackhead dealer in norcal was selling a 98-2002 model year dodge cummins 3500 4X4 6 speed manual with 150k miles for $19k. They're great trucks but damn, some of delaers are out of their mind with their prices.
Let me know if you are in an area that isn't really heavily affected by rust!!! I know some states don't use salt where it snows but my google search to find out which ones exactly didn't go too great