oil coolers - location and efficiency
Look for my cooling thread in this section, same setup, cheap and reliable. Stocklike oil cooler in stock location, and oddly enough, fan in FRONT of the oil cooler. Yes that perplexed me as well until I realized that a really good fan pushes more air in that area, and a Pull fan for those that have killed their stock fender liners already, gets trashed too easily. YMMV of course, such as a rally, hillclimb, PPIHC etc. But for the money I spent on a real Fluidyne and all the other stuff it's the same oil temp, and better water temp, for 1/20th the money, on slicks, at 28lbs, for 35+mins usually.
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From: Big city, Bright lights
i edited my post after i realized you wrote the fan man thread i keep reading.
any reason you went pusher on the rad instead of pull? i had been highly contemplating copying your setup lately, as long as i can figure out the wiring.
any reason you went pusher on the rad instead of pull? i had been highly contemplating copying your setup lately, as long as i can figure out the wiring.
I stated that earlier, the pull's get trashed by the tire area debris. I put wire mesh in and that helped a little but I went through 2 fans and then flipped it around. Even though it seems like surface area is sac'd in front, if you take measurements it's actually cooling those fins pretty well. Plus in the stock cooling area it's not exactly like your getting direct direct air. So if you did 1/3 that area for brakes and the rest for the oil that'd likely still work out with the fan there. The fans are wired direct to the fuse bus there on the right side of the engine bay. The shop originally did it just straight without a fuse, i've yet to correct it but I will. If you plan on using a switch like I am and running it post session, get a decent batt because that Rad fan pulls a LOT of juice. But man does it push air.
Last edited by Balrok; May 29, 2013 at 09:13 PM.
So I removed my oil cooler completely because my balance shaft belt exploded causing valve soup. I removed it in fear of having little metal shavings and didnt want those to circulate around in my brand new 5k engine. Do you really need an oil cooler for street driving? I've heard many people run the cars without one with no problem. Please advise your thoughts.
generally we make another brace-
moving the radiator forward and adding a shield around the turbo setup has yielded 20-30 degree drops in temps---
we typically mount a Mocal or Setrab Oil cooler in the front fender but duct it with aluminum--- having your front splitter will help with more airflow through the oil cooler itself-
the most important thing is packaging... if the air is bleeding around the core- it wont work as well...
fans only help sitting still- otherwise they block airflow.
cb
we modify the rad support many times with no ill affects-
generally we make another brace-
moving the radiator forward and adding a shield around the turbo setup has yielded 20-30 degree drops in temps---
we typically mount a Mocal or Setrab Oil cooler in the front fender but duct it with aluminum--- having your front splitter will help with more airflow through the oil cooler itself-
the most important thing is packaging... if the air is bleeding around the core- it wont work as well...
fans only help sitting still- otherwise they block airflow.
cb
generally we make another brace-
moving the radiator forward and adding a shield around the turbo setup has yielded 20-30 degree drops in temps---
we typically mount a Mocal or Setrab Oil cooler in the front fender but duct it with aluminum--- having your front splitter will help with more airflow through the oil cooler itself-
the most important thing is packaging... if the air is bleeding around the core- it wont work as well...
fans only help sitting still- otherwise they block airflow.
cb
the other thing depends on how the fan is controlled and what type of controller it has---
there are LOTS of variales to this stuff-
everytime we thought we'd nailed a combo in the past we'd think... oh.... nevermind---- let's try this LOL!
cb
I would prefer a pull style in most applications-
on track cars- id prefer no fan- with a blower run by a generator in the pits
there are LOTS of variales to this stuff-
everytime we thought we'd nailed a combo in the past we'd think... oh.... nevermind---- let's try this LOL!
cb
I would prefer a pull style in most applications-
on track cars- id prefer no fan- with a blower run by a generator in the pits
As Chad said ducting is also important and can yield great results on it's own, sometimes can be tricky to fab so not many are but should. I had puller fans on both before, but when I went to those pusher fans I dropped temps on both so obv they aren't doing harm. It really depends on the fan at the end of the day, if you use cheap slim fans then ya it'll reach a point of null effect. Plus I get the extra room between the turbo and rad. I also used to have a slim puller moved to the right inside along with the pusher on the rad, but i've since removed the inside puller and no increase, so you can get away with just the one if it's good enough. Food for thought.
Other options but your setup may vary is to use the 2044 puller fan but you'd have to measure clearance. Thefanman also has that nifty looking sidewinder fan which is 500cfm MORE then the the already insane fan i'm using, and half the thickness. But i'd have to see it to fork over 400 bucks for a fan.
Other options but your setup may vary is to use the 2044 puller fan but you'd have to measure clearance. Thefanman also has that nifty looking sidewinder fan which is 500cfm MORE then the the already insane fan i'm using, and half the thickness. But i'd have to see it to fork over 400 bucks for a fan.
Last edited by Balrok; May 30, 2013 at 08:25 AM.
From my experience the water sprayers aren't nearly effective enough, Dave's may be different. But from what i've seen, at speed on track, they evaporate or blow off WAY too quickly to actually penetrate and provide cooling to a decently thick cooler, be it oil or water. Basically it's been extra weight for most guys doing TT or racing. Dave's may be effective enough and he fires it at the right slow moments before it gets too hot etc but i'll let him comment with any data.
PPIHC has many very slow corners, so that may be when the water actually builds up on the face of the core...hard to know without sticking cameras on there to view spray patterns, but who wants to watch that when there are cliffs to see.

Fast forward to the car being a PPIHC only'ish sorta car and I wasn't getting enough cooling so I decided to go back to an oil/air cooler so as not to put double duty on the radiator. When re-designing my radiator setup I ended up with a small gap above the core and decided that'd be as good a place as any to stuff an oil cooler. Its got a ~3x3x22" core if I remember correctly. I don't have oil temp datalogging, so not sure what temps are actually doing.
Dave
I turn my sprayers on at the beginning of the run and have enough water for 11 minutes. No fancy electronics, nothing to fiddle with once the car is under way. I don't know how much sprayers help as I haven't tried running without them.
PPIHC has many very slow corners, so that may be when the water actually builds up on the face of the core...hard to know without sticking cameras on there to view spray patterns, but who wants to watch that when there are cliffs to see.
My setup was orig. moved because it was a dirt hillclimb car and ditch-hooking was a common practice. That put both the ACD pump and oil cooler in dangerous locations. ACD pump was moved behind passenger seat and I went to a Mocal oil/water cooler which was mounted in line with the upper radiator hose.
Fast forward to the car being a PPIHC only'ish sorta car and I wasn't getting enough cooling so I decided to go back to an oil/air cooler so as not to put double duty on the radiator. When re-designing my radiator setup I ended up with a small gap above the core and decided that'd be as good a place as any to stuff an oil cooler. Its got a ~3x3x22" core if I remember correctly. I don't have oil temp datalogging, so not sure what temps are actually doing.
Dave
PPIHC has many very slow corners, so that may be when the water actually builds up on the face of the core...hard to know without sticking cameras on there to view spray patterns, but who wants to watch that when there are cliffs to see.

My setup was orig. moved because it was a dirt hillclimb car and ditch-hooking was a common practice. That put both the ACD pump and oil cooler in dangerous locations. ACD pump was moved behind passenger seat and I went to a Mocal oil/water cooler which was mounted in line with the upper radiator hose.
Fast forward to the car being a PPIHC only'ish sorta car and I wasn't getting enough cooling so I decided to go back to an oil/air cooler so as not to put double duty on the radiator. When re-designing my radiator setup I ended up with a small gap above the core and decided that'd be as good a place as any to stuff an oil cooler. Its got a ~3x3x22" core if I remember correctly. I don't have oil temp datalogging, so not sure what temps are actually doing.
Dave
. Strap a gopro inside there and see what those sprayers do down the street from the stop or something we modify the rad support many times with no ill affects-
generally we make another brace-
moving the radiator forward and adding a shield around the turbo setup has yielded 20-30 degree drops in temps---
we typically mount a Mocal or Setrab Oil cooler in the front fender but duct it with aluminum--- having your front splitter will help with more airflow through the oil cooler itself-
the most important thing is packaging... if the air is bleeding around the core- it wont work as well...
fans only help sitting still- otherwise they block airflow.
cb
generally we make another brace-
moving the radiator forward and adding a shield around the turbo setup has yielded 20-30 degree drops in temps---
we typically mount a Mocal or Setrab Oil cooler in the front fender but duct it with aluminum--- having your front splitter will help with more airflow through the oil cooler itself-
the most important thing is packaging... if the air is bleeding around the core- it wont work as well...
fans only help sitting still- otherwise they block airflow.
cb
So I removed my oil cooler completely because my balance shaft belt exploded causing valve soup. I removed it in fear of having little metal shavings and didnt want those to circulate around in my brand new 5k engine. Do you really need an oil cooler for street driving? I've heard many people run the cars without one with no problem. Please advise your thoughts.






