Will do, thank you. I have more compression clicks than rebound, so I'll have to figure that out.

 

So for those who've installed the R&T, how did you address the brake lines and ABS wires? In my install both of the brackets interfere with the fender well so I had to improvise. Curious about other solutions.

 

Mine were close, I just left them. I should check them...

 

I understand the baseline Vishnu / Gerrard ride heights were F13.63"/R13.5" spindle to fender. They claim to have based their settings on an optimized front roll center to maximize front grip, then presumably set the rear for best roll couple. Unfortunately I don't have a model of the geometry to check this myself, but others here have said this is a good set-up.

My questions are:
- Has anyone done the analysis to optimize ride heights with the Whiteline RCK? If so, would you please be willing to share?
- What's the best spot for the upper strut mount bolt if there's plenty of adjustment in the camber plate? Is king-pin, scrub radius, etc better at one spot over the other? I'm shooting for -2.5* camber in the front.

Thanks!

 

I measured my before and after between my Bilstein/Swift Spec R and the Ohlins.

The Ohlins sit lower in the front by 1/4" using the specs in the manual. I have yet to touch them, but I do want the car to sit higher. It still scrapes everywhere when I have to drive it on the street.

The car now sits
13.25F
13.5R

Measured center of spindle to bottom edge of fender.

 

what are all the different ohlins categories for evos.. dfv, rt, flags, etc.

 

If you run say even measurement to the fenders (front/rear) you'll have a ton of forward rake. I run, by your measurement method, 13.25/12.5 and still have about an inch of rake measured at the body seam. If you want more clearance, turn the fronts up by the amount you want knowing that the front threads are 12tpi and MR is around 0.96.

For example, if you want to raise the front 1" then, 1" * 12tip / 0.96 = 12.5 turns.

FYI, the rears are 17 or 18tpi. Not the same as the front.

 

There used to be DFV and RT, now they are the same. I believe the earlier RT were made in China but Ohlins stopped that after a few years.
The flags aren't produced anymore.
They do have the TTXs but they are a lot!!

 

Manual says one revolution for the height adjuster on the front coil adjusts height by 2mm and 1.5mm for the rear.

Is that what you're saying? Also, what is a tpi?

 

TPI = Threads Per Inch
MR = Motion Ratio

I don't know if your manual means that your fronts have a 2.0mm pitch and the rears have a 1.5mm pitch or if they really move it by that amount per revolution. Thread pitch alone won't tell you how far each revolution will get you, you need to figure in the motion ratio as Dallas did.

 

This is what I'm going off of. I'm down for some math though!

 

tpi = thread per inch. Just what I measured on the body. It certainly might be 2mm which would be 12.7tpi. Not sure if it is metric or they rounded, but 12tpi would be 2.1mm.

 

I would measure peak to peak on the threads to verify pitch. If you end up with 2.0mm and 1.5mm respectively then it's not factoring in motion ratio and you'll be way off in the back compared to what the manual says.

To calculate turns, use the following:

T = (HD x TPI) / MR
T = Turns
HD = Height Differential
TPI = Threads per inch (25.4/pitch for metric)
MR = Motion Ratio

So, if you wanted to lower your front 1/2" and you have confirmed a 2.0mm pitch you would use:

T = [-0.5" x (25.4/2.0mm)] / 0.96
T = - 6.6

 

I have exactly 13mm of rake and it took FOREVER not knowing the tpi. A lot of "adjust/lower/roll/measure/repeat".
Drove me nuts.
That and the seams are smashed up from jacks and jack stands.

 

Thank you for the detailed explanation. So then, what's this number -6.6?