Öhlins THAT much better?
So not to take this thread too far off topic, but I'm installing my new Ohlin's R&T's and am wondering what other street / HPDE types are setting ride heights at?
I've got a full weight Evo8, Whiteline FSB/RSB, RCK, springs are F8k/R10k, stock wheels on the street, 17x9.5's w/ 255/40 Maxxis RC-1 at the track.
Thanks!
I've got a full weight Evo8, Whiteline FSB/RSB, RCK, springs are F8k/R10k, stock wheels on the street, 17x9.5's w/ 255/40 Maxxis RC-1 at the track.
Thanks!
That's a great set-up for sure.
I know this is sorta a newb question but how do you go about adjusting the dampening? I've read numerous articles and understand the basics but I still feel like I have no clue what Im doing with that.
I've played around with it a little bit but I don't have a methodical method so my current setup is solely based on feel. I just wish I had some sort of clue what I was doing
Thank god I only have singles...
I've played around with it a little bit but I don't have a methodical method so my current setup is solely based on feel. I just wish I had some sort of clue what I was doing
Thank god I only have singles...
turn them fully soft "open" drive the car
then fully stiff "closed" drive the car
you will feel the difference in the range of adustment-
we tend to run "more" valving in the front (aka more closed) then the rear-
cb
then fully stiff "closed" drive the car
you will feel the difference in the range of adustment-
we tend to run "more" valving in the front (aka more closed) then the rear-
cb
I assume this isn't one size fits all? People have different spring rates and swaybars, so depending on how those are set-up on each car, you will have to adjust more or less stiff for your specific set-up... correct?
I like to over shoot and back off. So I crank them to about 80-85% of full stiff to start. Make a run to get the tires warm and think about how the car handled. Don't make a change, make a second run with warm tires. If there are issues at turn-in or mid slalom at either end of the car, turn that side down. If those issues coincide with ill handling at steady state, don't blame the shocks.
Slaloms is really where I like to think about shocks and how they are effecting the car.
Slaloms is really where I like to think about shocks and how they are effecting the car.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I like to over shoot and back off. So I crank them to about 80-85% of full stiff to start. Make a run to get the tires warm and think about how the car handled. Don't make a change, make a second run with warm tires. If there are issues at turn-in or mid slalom at either end of the car, turn that side down. If those issues coincide with ill handling at steady state, don't blame the shocks.
Slaloms is really where I like to think about shocks and how they are effecting the car.
Slaloms is really where I like to think about shocks and how they are effecting the car.
Just depends on what you want to know. My theories on making the evo handle are continually evolving, trying some new stuff this weekend even completely contrary to Evo norm. Will it work? I think so, but only one way to find out.
I do have a pretty safe standard setup I really like that I have friends running that works great, but finding that last 5-10% takes a bit testing and learning on your own.
I do have a pretty safe standard setup I really like that I have friends running that works great, but finding that last 5-10% takes a bit testing and learning on your own.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
I can make the adjustments....i just need a reasonable starting point. I'd rally appreciate it.
Just depends on what you want to know. My theories on making the evo handle are continually evolving, trying some new stuff this weekend even completely contrary to Evo norm. Will it work? I think so, but only one way to find out.
I do have a pretty safe standard setup I really like that I have friends running that works great, but finding that last 5-10% takes a bit testing and learning on your own.
I do have a pretty safe standard setup I really like that I have friends running that works great, but finding that last 5-10% takes a bit testing and learning on your own.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
Nevermind. Pay pal put a 24hr hold on payment for my coilovers. I hit up Dude with the ASTs to see if I could give a deposit until tomorrow and he tells me he sold them. I sold mine only to buy his. Burn.
Car is going to be on Jack stands. On the bright side, NO body roll.
Car is going to be on Jack stands. On the bright side, NO body roll.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 154
From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
I must have been bored, because I just read this whole thread. (I'm also waiting for Penn State to find their offense in this game). I am surprised there are no shock dynos or critical damping curves compared between the various setups. Some folks have mentioned street manners and "stiffness" of various setups. The science behind that is in the damper performance. High speed "blow off", or a digressive damper, is critical to minimize harshness of a damper setup.
A while back, I did a comparison of the FA 510s to my Moton Clubsports for a friend who was trying to figure out his setup. I need to find it and maybe post some useful plots. The moral of the story was that quality dampers can allow you to approach or even exceed critical damping at low speeds (2in/s and lower) while being 50% or so at high speeds. This lets you really control body movement from corner loads while allowing bumps (or curb hits) to move the wheel and not upset the car... or the drivers butt.
In order to get shock dynos to exhibit this digressive behavior, there is a lot of engineering that goes into the design of the valving. That's what you are really paying for with Ohlin's, Moton, etc. Companies like FA have great support, but they are still figuring out the valving to catch up.
A while back, I did a comparison of the FA 510s to my Moton Clubsports for a friend who was trying to figure out his setup. I need to find it and maybe post some useful plots. The moral of the story was that quality dampers can allow you to approach or even exceed critical damping at low speeds (2in/s and lower) while being 50% or so at high speeds. This lets you really control body movement from corner loads while allowing bumps (or curb hits) to move the wheel and not upset the car... or the drivers butt.
In order to get shock dynos to exhibit this digressive behavior, there is a lot of engineering that goes into the design of the valving. That's what you are really paying for with Ohlin's, Moton, etc. Companies like FA have great support, but they are still figuring out the valving to catch up.
Here is my left rear after:
If I hit the lotto I'll try out some of those pimpy regressive Penskes
http://www.rhoadescamaro.com/build/?p=1756
Last edited by Butt Dyno; Sep 25, 2014 at 07:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
i was pretty bummed. i told him i was selling mine to get his, so not like was going to flake. i busted my butt to sell them within 24hrs. i stayed in touch via text and kept him up to date. i checked paypal every two hours from work because the notice said "up to 24hrs". you know.. paypal gotta make that interest. anyway.. when i saw it wasn't going through until tomorrow i offered the deposit. it was then that he told me they were sold to someone else.
i wish he at least would have said something to me before i got rid of my coilovers.
i understand $1900 in the hand is worth a hell of a lot more than an IOU for tomorrow.. but damn, man. i would have kept my stuff had i known he wasn't going to sell them to me.
i've been in his situation many time and i always attempt to reach the first buyer to confirm they are buying BEFORE i sell the part out from under them. like you said. common courtesy. nobody really cares about stuff like that any more.
PSi is awesome
we deal with them also-
my suggestion was to "feel" out your adjustment capability-
as for the setup on your car-
that is something only you can decide on-
for instance- our track car ran 950 and 1200-1300 lbs springs- because I am used to a stiff chassis with aero and like the car to do its work on entry not exit- etc-
On the ohlins in particular- I always end up making adjustments on our clients cars when I drive them at the track- but what I like- isnt always what they like- even if they go quicker on my settings- they may be more "comfortable" on something more setup for their driving style-
but to give you an idea- last year at NJMP- we did coaching with a good client on R&T's-
I drove the car for three laps- made a few clicks of adjustment front and rear- he went back out- and went 1.5 seconds faster-
cb
we deal with them also-
my suggestion was to "feel" out your adjustment capability-
as for the setup on your car-
that is something only you can decide on-
for instance- our track car ran 950 and 1200-1300 lbs springs- because I am used to a stiff chassis with aero and like the car to do its work on entry not exit- etc-
On the ohlins in particular- I always end up making adjustments on our clients cars when I drive them at the track- but what I like- isnt always what they like- even if they go quicker on my settings- they may be more "comfortable" on something more setup for their driving style-
but to give you an idea- last year at NJMP- we did coaching with a good client on R&T's-
I drove the car for three laps- made a few clicks of adjustment front and rear- he went back out- and went 1.5 seconds faster-
cb
we also tend to run more preload than most on the ohlins
cb