I believe that would be the number of turns to get the front lowered .5". It was merely an example to tie some figures behind the equations.

 

Ah.

 

He's saying if you want to lower 0.5" then body needs to turn ~6.6 turns. Or if you want to go up 0.5" then turn 6.6 time other direction (extension).

 

Did you happen to do Roll Center / FAP calls to get your ride heights, or just go low and flat? I'd guess you put some thinking into your setup...

 

FWIW, with the upper strut bolt set to -2*, and the camber plates most of the way in I got -4.2*. The upper bolt could easily be set to -1 and still get -2.5* total camber while moving the strut body more tangent to the lower control arm ball joint. Wheel & tire clearance isn't a problem.

I wish I remembered my FSAE classes better + measured everything when it's been apart...

 

I haven't bothered going that far into evaluating the evo stuff yet. Really cause there hasn't been any big reason to since we cant to a whole lot about it. The whiteline RCK really only compensates for 5/8" of lowering IIRC but 5/8" is better than nothing. More so just going into the set up as get the rear nearly as low as possible and run enough roll rate to control the car motion. Set the front a little higher since that has a worse geometry which is pretty obvious looking at the control arm angles. Also to reduce the rake a bit cause Evos are quite nose-down.

There are some other things I've been thinking about lately cause a 240 buddy, namely slider axis and how to get effective camber gain under bump. If I ever get some of these "Secret" projects further along I might post up some progress but for now I'm just slowly working away on the design side of things.

 

Here is mine for reference. Looks like it's been rubbing on the body:

 

is anyone running the plates sideways to add caster? or is this not possible with the stock ohlins plates

 

Ive done that on other setups, just max the camber on the top and pull out camber as needed at the hubs. If theres a balance issue left/right then the subframe needs to be adjusted.

My current setup I went a different route. A bigger reason for the added caster is to re-center the wheel after the PSRS offset bushing pushes it forward.

Attachment 326970

 

When you maxed your plates up top did you have any issues with the shock body hitting the inner fender well?

 

you mean added caster via a plate up top?

 

Yes the PSRS moves the strut/ wheel forward on the bottom and then the caster plate gains caster by moving the strut backwards up top.

 

we always run the most positive camber setting at the knuckle- and use the upper for the adjustment-

cb

 

Im going to look into doing that for next year. I didnt think it was possible to get enough camber having the bolt at the -1 setting without the spring perch making contact with the inner fender well... Are you massaging the inner fender well or am I just crazy? Im having rubbing right now actually but it may just be my brake lines. As long as I can get around 3.5 degrees in the front I will be happy.

 

after a long classroom discussion with other drivers and a few instructors last weekend, i learned a little of why ohlins matter.

out of a large group of vastly different cars i was the only one that could eat up curbs. many people were being told to stay off the curbs, but the group leader/very experienced instructor drove a few laps behind me with his high end data/vid system. when we reviewed it it was very apparent how much better my car soaked up bumps than any everyone else, to the point that i was making time on exit over every other car because of it.