So you cheated is what you're saying

Interestingly enough I ended up with pretty similar settings although I've got different rates and auto-x my car rather than track stuff so I don't mind the car being a little loose on corner entry whereas in your case pushy might be a little more confidence inspiring...

I ended up with 7/F 8/R clicks from full still. This is with the 10k/F and 650#/R stock valving.

 

Cheated?



How else was I supposed to get close? I'm sure I would still be driving it on recommended spec until someone told me other wise.

 

Haha Im just giving you a hard time bud

The process of dialing them in is something I have struggled to master and is another reason why I bang my head that I went to school for Business rather than Mechanical Engineering.

This stuff really interests me and I understand the basics at a high level but I would really love to know the why each change does what it does rather than just doing it because that's what I'm told is needed.

With the holiday fast approaching I asked my brother to buy me these two books for Christmas so I should be a master suspension toooner in no time

 

Instructor drove my car for three laps and told me what they were feeling. It helped me to understand how close I was to getting the car neutral.

Super helpful.

 

I measure:

16.00mm spherical bearing ID

30.0mm bearing carrier diameter

15.0mm bearing carrier height

19mm spherical bearing height

Bearing carrier has the NMB logo on it. Has fabric/teflon type liner.

My first guess is something like this: http://www.eminebea.com/en/product/b...wtmbwt-v.shtml but I can't confirm.

 

Hmmm I need to dig up some old emails when I have a moment because I spent a ton of time researching replacement NMB spherical bearings for my old cusco plates. (without comparing them right next to eachother Im not sure they are the same bearing) However off the top of my head those above specs don't look right to me. I recall the inner ID being 18mm and the nuts to secure the top hats were interchangeable between the Cuscos and the Ohlins so I know that much is comparable.

I spent a ton of time on this so I should have the info somewhere as well as a list of distributors. I'll edit this post when I have more info.

UPDATE: So i pulled out my Ohlins Camber plates this morning and took a quick measurement. Without pressing out the bearing I couldn't confirm all the specs but Im pretty confident as to what it is.

As I remembered the inner diameter is indeed 18mm and I measured 33mm for the outer. I also found my old email strings and am now pretty confident the bearing is the same as what came in my old Cusco plates NMB mbwt-18

The specs are the following:
Inner 18mm
Outer 33mm
Ball 20mm
Race 16mm

I've also got a list of NMB distributors and am happy to email that to anyone if needbe. Just shoot me a PM

 

of the 3 different brand of shocks i've used, they all used the same size spherical bearings. Ohlins, AST, FortuneAuto and Stance top hat. They just use different size adapter spacers for different size of sock shafts.

 

Interesting. I took my measurements straight off of my unused R&T camber plates. Are yours from the DFVs or the R&T-branded ones?

 

I have the newest version of the Ohlins R&T DFV's with the silver locking collars rather than the blue ones...

Can you take a measurement of the OD of the nut that attaches the plates to the strut to confirm? Maybe they had different sizes in the past?

FWIW the ID of the spherical on my Ohlins Cusco and Ciro Design Racing plates are all the same. There were just some slight differences in the size of the spacers needed, length of the nuts as well as the carrier housing distance between the bolt holes side to side was slightly different...

 

Interesting. I ordered and received mine early 2014. Silver locking collars all around.

From what I recall, the included Ohlins top nut did not work with my Ciro plates. In fact, the included Ciro top nut was slightly too long with all of the spacer combinations I tried and I had to order the shorter version of the Ciro top nut to keep the coilovers from clunking.

I'll confirm measurements tonight.

 

Im almost positive I ended up using the Ohlins top nut in conjunction with my CDR plates. I know what you mean about the Ciro top nut being too long as I had that issue when I used my CDR plates with my old Bilstein setup. It would bottom out on the threads before fully seating on the bearing and caused clunking. Rick sent me a set of shorter top nuts to alleviate that issue.

When I got my Ohlins and went to use the CDR plates I thought I could just use the top portion in conjuntion with the bearing and carrier housing that the Ohlins came with but found out that the width between the bolts was slightly off i.e ~1/8" Just enough to need me to use the CDR bearing pack with the top portion.

But long story short I'm almost positive Im using the nut included with my Ohlins in conjunction with the CDR plates and CDR bearing pack which would suggest that they have the same ID.

I'm not saying you're wrong by any means so I hope I don't come across as attacking you. It's just funny because we have almost identical setups so you'd think the components would also be identical...

 

I tried to make a hybrid between the Ohlins and CDR plates as well, but was also disappointed when they didn't match up.

When did you get your CDR plates? I had to order replacements after I wore out the original spherical bearings, and the new CDR plates are quite different from the original CDR setup. I'll have to post up pictures of all the plates when I get home tonight.

 

Interested to see what your CDR plates look like. I picked mine up a few years ago. Regardless the bearings in question are the ones that come on the Ohlins which in that case you'd think they would be the same.

I'll try and snap some photos over the weekend of mine if I have some time. I need to take apart my coils anyway since Im upping the rates and plan to send my rears in for a revalve.

Speaking of revalves, who here has had their Ohlins revalved and where did you send them? I spoke with someone at PerformanceShock a couple months ago and he was quite knowledgeable and friendly for that matter. I know they have a good reputation so I will probably end up sending them there but if someone has other recommendations I'm all ears...

 

You can send them to Ohlins service but I know Works and Anze are good places. They are both Ohlins authorized service centers and known for good suspension tuning.

 

I measured again: 16.00mm spherical bearing ID. The top nut OD is 15.93mm.

It seems strange that Ohlins has switched to a smaller spherical bearing. It's not like there would be a huge cost savings there.

Anyway, my plates:



CDR plate with new bearing carrier installed. Old CDR bearing carrier in the foreground. Ohlins in gold.

The new Ciro bearing plate has the spherical bearing sit below the camber plate. This moves the whole strut down about 10-15mm. I have the Ohlins ride height almost at the minimum setting, but the actual ride height is close to the ride height with "normal" camber plates and the Ohlins at their factory ride height setting. If I wanted to go much lower (I don't, yet) I'd probably have to switch camber plates first.

Either that or Rick made some new upper plates that accept these new bearing carriers right-side-up and just forgot to tell me about it.

You can also see that my Ohlins' spherical bearing has a smaller ID than the Ciro plates.

Performance Shock did top-notch work on my Ohlins.