RaceFab wet sump pan
#62
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by psushoe
Easier to go fast with a working motor and 20 extra lbs than a spun bearing and less weight.
#63
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
They have a dow in the rod cap that keeps their bearings in place.
Give them a call, I'm sure they will be happy to answer all the questions that may follow this post.
#64
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
I think you have it backwards, steel rods transmit more beating to the bearings than aluminum, aluminum rods absorb a lot of bearing damaging force, especially when detonation is present. They are way more forgiving. The rods I favor are Vader rods from FFWD CONNECTION. 1.888.749.CRYO (2796)
They have a dow in the rod cap that keeps their bearings in place.
Give them a call, I'm sure they will be happy to answer all the questions that may follow this post.
They have a dow in the rod cap that keeps their bearings in place.
Give them a call, I'm sure they will be happy to answer all the questions that may follow this post.
#65
LoL. But yes guides go bad like any metal part. But that's original so what, 5 years of racing 5k+ rpm. Back when it was a street car say in 2008 I had BC springs and Ti retainers put in and amazingly those were still at or above spec so I just reused them.
Before, notice all the nice extra blow by
After
Before, notice all the nice extra blow by
After
Last edited by Balrok; Sep 24, 2015 at 08:05 AM.
#66
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.
#68
good point. not many people i know have raced their cars for 5yrs LOL. i could see that taking it's toll. i had some nice, new, brass ones ready to go with my last build, but my machinist says he's never seen a set go bad (unless damaged due to other issues) and that if i go with brass, i'll be replacing a lot more often.
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.
#69
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
good point. not many people i know have raced their cars for 5yrs LOL. i could see that taking it's toll. i had some nice, new, brass ones ready to go with my last build, but my machinist says he's never seen a set go bad (unless damaged due to other issues) and that if i go with brass, i'll be replacing a lot more often.
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.
#70
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
i did tell them i'm building the engine for longevity (using OEM stuff), so maybe he felt OEM guides were best for me?
i know, when it comes to engine building, for every opinion you get, you seem to get at least one that says the opposite LOL. so, i figure either way works.
all i know is they've been working all this time, so i have no problem sticking with them.
#74
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I wonder why they think it needs more volume? ER designed a drive pulley to reduce pump rpm, which reduces volume because the pump flows too much already...