Easier to go fast with a working motor and 20 extra lbs than a spun bearing and less weight.

 

I hear those spun bearings really hurt power..

 

I think you have it backwards, steel rods transmit more beating to the bearings than aluminum, aluminum rods absorb a lot of bearing damaging force, especially when detonation is present. They are way more forgiving. The rods I favor are Vader rods from FFWD CONNECTION. 1.888.749.CRYO (2796)

They have a dow in the rod cap that keeps their bearings in place.

Give them a call, I'm sure they will be happy to answer all the questions that may follow this post.

 

um. wut?

 

LoL. But yes guides go bad like any metal part. But that's original so what, 5 years of racing 5k+ rpm. Back when it was a street car say in 2008 I had BC springs and Ti retainers put in and amazingly those were still at or above spec so I just reused them.

Before, notice all the nice extra blow by


After

 

good point. not many people i know have raced their cars for 5yrs LOL. i could see that taking it's toll. i had some nice, new, brass ones ready to go with my last build, but my machinist says he's never seen a set go bad (unless damaged due to other issues) and that if i go with brass, i'll be replacing a lot more often.
if my current build works like it should, i'll probably do OEM guides at the next rebuild. car should have 200k or so by then.

 

I was half a sleep reading the aluminum rod thread than this one and posted in the wrong one. My bad

 

Eh, If you track you'll be replacing everything more often. From race machinist they claim brass is the best so that's what I'd go with. One of those "while your in there, do it right and make it better/faster/stronger" rather then just getting by.

 

Ask him to define "more often" lol. Just because brass typically doesn't go 250k easy street miles like steel doesn't mean they won't go through 100k of abuse. I've never had a problem with brass guides wearing prematurely..

 

i dunno know, it's just what i was told. i had the brass ones ready to go but i was told they weren't needed. maybe i don't make enough power or rev the car enough? i didn't really question it. LOL.
i did tell them i'm building the engine for longevity (using OEM stuff), so maybe he felt OEM guides were best for me?
i know, when it comes to engine building, for every opinion you get, you seem to get at least one that says the opposite LOL. so, i figure either way works.
all i know is they've been working all this time, so i have no problem sticking with them.

 

this looks very interesting.

http://frontlinefabrication.com/prod...ring-oil-pump/

 

That's bad ***! But I've had hundreds of thousands of miles on OEM pumps. I didn't think they were all that bad.

 

i wonder if it will retain the front balance shaft or not. probably not since there are no gear to drive the balance shaft like oem pump.

 

I wonder why they think it needs more volume? ER designed a drive pulley to reduce pump rpm, which reduces volume because the pump flows too much already...

 

Yeah, it was a bit of a contradictory statement. Can't have more volume and less pressure at the same time. Perhaps they are suggesting a more steady pressure across the rpm range.