Yeah, launching a car on lo-pro tires is hard on parts.

 

I'm just being facetious, of sorts. Nobody at my local Autox launches all crazy or anything that would break drivetrain parts. I run OSP, (definitely not "OSP prepped", though) so not well versed in ASP nor SM. Not really well versed in Autox at aol, really (i read through these threads to learn).
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worst part to me of ST is stock clutch. i dont use the evo for nationals, and regionally no one cares - so i've put in an exedy. not that i even really launch the car

 

It is shame clutch (of a same type - no fancy multi plate race versions) is not on list of allowed changes for ST. More power from allowed mods just punishes that part way more than most stock units can handle. To me, that is a item just as brake pads are!

 

*SP just had an allowance passed for reliability mods. You can upgrade drivetrain components with parts that are more robust than stock, as long as they serve no other purpose and are at least as heavy.

So when you blow up a Tcase you can send it out to be rebuilt and cryo treated. You can swap axles out with beefier ones if that's your concern. Obviously clutches are already free...

That was always my big issue with *SP Evos. Now it's no excuse.

 

Needs a front diff too...lol

And the TRE billet side cover for the rear diff.

 

yea r-comps on lincoln concrete is something else..

 

Totally unrelated:

Just got the car aligned with the new control arm bushings (+6.1 caster, yay).

The rear is goofy though. They said:
* The wheel (17x9.5 +38 RPF1 w 255-40-17 RE71Rs) is contacting the control arm, but just a little to the point where a very tiny spacer would fix it. If this was happening before I did not notice, though I would think I would have seen the scraping on the wheel
* They could not get the rear toe to 0 without going all the way to -2.1 camber (I was shooting for -1.5 which is what I had as recently as a year ago).

The ride height hasn't changed since the last time the car was aligned (a year ago) so this is really strange. Any ideas of what could be off?

 

The wheel does contact the control arm. Mine was BAD until I redid all the bushings. It still touches, but very little. It wore to a point and stopped. I didn't feel it was bad enough to worry about. The wheel is fine, other than the paint rubbed off, and the notch in the arm is very small.
I have 0 toe with 1.6*. I wonder why they were having a problem. That doesn't seem right. I have had a shop tell me they couldn't get my setup right once.. turns out their machine's calibration was WAY off. Could that be it?

 

It's possible certainly but this shop has aligned the car 10+ other times (and my WRX a bunch of times before that) and they know I actually care about the details so they are not just putting it in the green and moving on. They did an alignment to these exact specs a year ago right after I had the stiffer springs put on.

Only other difference I can think of is that the car is on the 255s now (I usually align it on my TRM street wheels). And one of those 17x9.5s did get repaired at one point after a pothole.

I'll double check the heights too.

 

That's all pretty minor stuff to require 2 degrees of camber, though. I'm curious.. do report back, please!

at 1.5deg camber, it is toed in or out?

 

Out.

 

Did you get new bushings on the rear control arms? Could they be offset relative to the stock bushings?

 

Rear control arm bushings are still OEM. I was just doing the caster bushings up front (and WORKS bushings in the other front slot) to make it easier to fit 265s.

 

I would put eyes on the toe arm eccentric adjustment washer things. Make sure they're actually at the maximum condition before reaching any conclusions or investigating anything else.


I'm sure it's possible they're maxed out, but it just doesn't feel right to me. That said, I haven't aligned an Evo in 2 years or something so I'm probably wrong.


-Bryan