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Finally got off my back and started putting the dry sump together. The pulley needs to be machined a bit more, as it will not run with the ribbed belt going around it but will run it counter clockwise from the back of the belt.. so V band profile needs to go. Will take the pump apart and set it for counter clockwise rotation.
Tank is next, after I finish the sump...
Ugh...just installed Walbro 450 and I obviously messed something up, Car starts, runs for a second, builds 18 psi fuel pressure and then dies. I’m suspecting that I didn’t fully seat the grommet/output of the pump in the housing, or I tore the grommet. I failed to lube that before installing it and I did notice after install that the bottom of the grommet was still slightly visible, which I understand isn’t normal. I should have redone it right then and there. Only other thing I can think of is that possibly the strainer is too close to the bottom of the tank because this new pump design is longer. But, I doubt that because I got the bottom pump bracket fully seated with all 3 clips. Anything else to troubleshoot?
Originally Posted by heel2toe
Sounds exactly like a grommet issue. I've run into this in the past and only saw about 20# at the rail when cranking. And your logic with the bottom bracket clipping back in is sound so it really can't be that. Pull it back apart and see for yourself.
It actually wasn't the pump grommet. It was the o-ring not reinstalled properly on that grounded plastic clip by the fuel filter. Rookie mistake for sure. As soon as I pulled it apart I realized that the o-ring needs to be reinstalled around that little nozzle thing and not just free floating in the tube!
But now the car idles fine with the new Walbro 450, drilled siphon, McMaster bulkhead fitting for wires (to bypass the melt prone stock clips in the stock hanger), FIC 1650s, Spoolin Up resistor delete plug, Radium fuel rail, fire sleeves on the underhood lines and Innovate flex fuel sensor wired to the stock ECU. I was expecting the fuel pressure to be 50+ psi, but it's actually right at about 42 psi with the vacuum line pulled from the stock FPR. Now to finish up the Hobbs switch relay setup, though it's mostly done. This has been a much more expansive install than I was expecting, and this is just a simple single pump set-up!
I've been severely neglecting the Evo since my son was born, but SSB Design's Black Friday sale was too good to pass up.
I'm joining the billet upright club next season. Also ordered the billet front LCAs to push the wheel forward. Need the extra clearance at the rear of the wheel well to get the 275/35s to fit.
I've been severely neglecting the Evo since my son was born, but SSB Design's Black Friday sale was too good to pass up.
I'm joining the billet upright club next season. Also ordered the billet front LCAs to push the wheel forward. Need the extra clearance at the rear of the wheel well to get the 275/35s to fit.
i just ordered rear trailing arms. Looking forward to wider wheels in 2021!
I've been severely neglecting the Evo since my son was born, but SSB Design's Black Friday sale was too good to pass up.
I'm joining the billet upright club next season. Also ordered the billet front LCAs to push the wheel forward. Need the extra clearance at the rear of the wheel well to get the 275/35s to fit.
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
i just ordered rear trailing arms. Looking forward to wider wheels in 2021!
i don't think it's legal in my class, but what's the main takeaway? more grip and better handling?
Unless it's spelled out as being illegal, it's not illegal. IIRC street rules just say you can't modify pickup points on the chassis.
But yes, more mechanical grip because it puts the car in a better behaved area of the camber curve when it's lowered.
I ordered myself a set of the LCAs as well. First person to place an order on his new site too 😜 This rounds out my SSB collection, now I have every evo specific part he makes 😂😁
