Ugh...just installed Walbro 450 and I obviously messed something up, Car starts, runs for a second, builds 18 psi fuel pressure and then dies. I’m suspecting that I didn’t fully seat the grommet/output of the pump in the housing, or I tore the grommet. I failed to lube that before installing it and I did notice after install that the bottom of the grommet was still slightly visible, which I understand isn’t normal. I should have redone it right then and there. Only other thing I can think of is that possibly the strainer is too close to the bottom of the tank because this new pump design is longer. But, I doubt that because I got the bottom pump bracket fully seated with all 3 clips. Anything else to troubleshoot?

 

i do - once installed properly i haven't ever boiled the fluid on my car, but i couldn't say if the ti shims were the difference between boiling and not

 

Sounds exactly like a grommet issue. I've run into this in the past and only saw about 20# at the rail when cranking. And your logic with the bottom bracket clipping back in is sound so it really can't be that. Pull it back apart and see for yourself.

 

I've always been skeptical that a 0.5mm metal sheet could provide enough of a thermal barrier to make a difference, but a lot of people seem to think they help.

Spending almost $100 on some shims for marginal improvement is a tough sell, though. At that point, I'd almost rather spend a bit more and get stainless steel pistons for the calipers: https://racingbrake.com/bm-41p

The thermal conductivity of stainless steel isn't that much worse than titanium, but there's a whole lot more material in the piston than in a 0.5mm shim.

 

Probably overkill, but I have X calipers with vented SS pistons AND Ti shims. I tossed on all the stuff I've been collecting.
During my last track day, I was hard on the brakes. Zero fade.
Speculation says Ti shims keep a lot of heat in the pad vs letting it dissipate.
Depends on who you ask.
It ain't broken, so I ain't gonna fix it. LOL

 

That's the entire point. The maximum operating temp of the brake pads is much higher than the brake fluid.

 

i ran the stainless steel pistons before too. only by chance am i back to the oem aluminum pistons. that said, i think aluminum is better. yes, stainless steel has better (worse?) thermal conductivity than aluminum, but once it gets the heat, it HOLDS it forever whereas aluminum practically throws it away. that plus the ti shims, and haven't had any issues with either setup. never noticed a difference with either, but i don't measure brake temps - wouldn't even know which would be more relevant - pad, rotor, caliper, piston.. the X brakes & ti shims have held up for me fine and I've left it at that.

I did glaze my ST43s badly at road america, but in fairness road america is very unique.

 

Put stainless pistons in. Much better route. My brakes were .... on fire ... at Laguna and I never lost the pedal. And don't run any shims with them.

Ti shims really just seemed to give me another 1/2-1 lap before the pedal got mushy.

 

since we are on brakes, can anyone recommend a cheapish (<$300) scanner tool that can actuate the ABS solenoids?

 

I probably didn't word that right. Some argue that more heat stays in the pad than we would want, since it's insulated from the natural heat sinks of the rest of the caliper, etc. I'd rather have heat in the pad, since I can deal with that by running different pads and ducting.
For my application, I doubt that it really makes much difference so I just let others argue it out

 

also speaking of brakes - are these rotors done? my fingernail does catch on some of the cracks, assume that means they are. kind of surprising given they only lasted 9-10 track days..

 

Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking stainless/vented pistons should be next on my list (new dust boots too). Going to be doing a big brake overhaul pretty soon and should probably add those to the list. So far all I have are the ST43s, ti shims and some new fluid (been a year since I flushed it). How it is with my garbage EBC blues, I can over heat them in 2-3 laps at Streets of Willow and my pedal starts to get spongey after 3 auto-x laps. Now that my brother has a z28 and my dad has a zl1, I am pretty far behind in the braking department and want to get that sorted out. I only drive the Evo 50-80 miles a month so I dont mind going with all out track stuff.

 

9 brakes or 10 brakes?

 

Still on 9s. I really want to do 2 piece rotors on 10s, but dont think thats in the budget right now. My other 2 project cars are getting in the way.

 

That rotor is trash.