You should really get a tire temp probe. My car is ususally happy around 2-2.2 in the rear. But this can vary widely with car setup and driving style.

?? If you are changing camber by your top plates, then that distance does not change.

Flipping the offset bushing in the tow arm gave me a comfortable amount of tow adjustment at 2°, but yeah...I think about out of space to move.

Sounds like I'll stick with my 2° unless I can squeeze that extra 0.2. I'm close, so
Tire probe was ordered about a week ago.

Thanks, guys!

The lower you go in the rear, the more camber you can run with keeping toe in check.

The thing about rear toe, and evo rear setup in general, is that rear grip really does matter if you do it right. You want to make the outside rear work as hard as possible which will take load off the outside front. I run -3 deg rear camber but also have a bit less camber curve though more linear. But that extra camber is keeping my tire happier looking at the wear compared to -2 or -2.5 deg. But I'm also asking the rear to work much harder with my rear spring rates.

Front needs a lot because it just has weak camber gain, front will roll more than the rear, and the tire will flex more than the rear. It also has to deal with our huge SAI angles and in most peoples cases limited caster. Without my uprights and caster, I would run -4.5deg up front. But I can say now the wear across my tires is even enough that it even confused Tom Berry which was which.

I have 6-7° of caster. I'd have to look it up to be exact..but a decent amount. I'm sure that's helping.

Everything in a suspension is a system. All the pieces tie together to make it work efficiently. Having enough of X but falling short of Y doesn't mean you have 1/2 of the puzzle, most of the time it means you have less.

Having enough caster doesn't mean much if your ride heights are jacked up from trying to get there. Just like how running extra static camber to get around having a high gain rate is a bandaid fix that still leaves you with lots of performance being left on the table.

You wouldn't build an engine with a billet crank, forged pistons, and stock rods. Don't setup a suspension without addressing stuff like tire wear or roll characteristics.

Also, FWIW 275s really aren't that big. My car is sub 2800lbs and I can get my 275 RC1s to fall off after about 10-12 mins on a 100F day at only 350hp.

How do your guys cars actually drive on the street with a true track alignment? I drive mine 1-2 times a week so it's not a big deal but wondering if I should go more aggressive since I do track it? Currently 2.8 front 1.8 rear and I think 4 caster. Mostly auto-x. Nothing aggressive.

How many miles are you street driving vs. track time?

I street drove with -3.5ish camber for a long time with zero toe. The inside shoulders wore a bit faster than the rest of the tire, but I autocrossed enough that the tires never lasted long enough for the shoulder wear to matter.

It's all about the zero toe.

Back in the days I daily drove my Evo 8 with -3.2 camber, even in Tahoe snow storms up and down the mountain. No issues if you use proper tires for what you are doing.

However, I was caught in a huge rain storm on the highway once with bald Pilot Sport Cups and that was no fun. I think I had the car at opposite lock about five times before I could get to the nearest exit ramp, find a lot and sit the storm out. No fun at all.

I might put on 5k miles a year if I drive it a lot. Looks like I will have, at a minimum, 12 days of auto-x next year and probably a couple big track events. I am set to zero toe right now.

My car never goes out in bad weather so I am not worried about anything like that. Plus, it doesnt rain or snow out here so thats definitely not a concern. Haha.

With that mileage and number of events you'll be doing, the street driving will not be what wears your tires out. I would definitely align the car for max performance at your driving events.

Time to resurrect my Camber/Caster/KPI spreadsheet. I put yours in the 2nd column



Edit: For steering angle, normal tight corners are in the 15deg range or when hands turn past 180 deg. 20 deg would be 270deg steering wheel angle and something really tight.

I drive the car about 20mi, once or twice per month. If I drive to BWRP, it's 220mi round trip but that's why my "daily" tires are so cheap. No worries LOL. I only go there 2-3 times per year and only drive the car there one or two of those. Zero toe.

You know I need a secret decoder ring, right?